Shane H

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/video/tips-and-solutions/flicker-free-lights-and-why-they-are-important-you

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6

On 4/29/2019 at 7:57 PM, Oisin Hugh Edwin O'Connell said:

Hello. 

Film student here, looking for some advice. 

I've got a scene coming up that I want to set at sunset, but not wanting to confine my shoot to an hour a day I'm hoping to replicate that time of day instead. There are two locations to be lit like this, both interiors with windows and white walls. The way I'm thinking of pulling this is by shooting a HMI (at least 1.8 K, but could go higher) and relying on bounce from the walls to give more interior light, then cheating in a silk or bounce for fill lights in tighter shots while using the "sunlight" as key light. also flagging and neg-fill where needed. Either gelling the HMI or grading for the sunset color.

Will that bounce be enough to fill the space and brighten up all the non-wide shots?

Does it sound like it'll be a convincing replacement?

Is grading the color in at all wise, or should I go to lengths to color the light on-set? 

Any help and advice is much appreciated!

In my experience, you're on the right track. Personally, I would opt for a tungsten fixture and change your white balance to about 4000K in camera to achieve this look, but if you're stuck with the HMI then you might try some minus green (aka magenta) gel as well as the CTO. Sunlight tends to shift towards this end of the spectrum as it is nearing the horizon.

I would keep a pizza box or beadboard on hand for tight shots. 

21 hours ago, David Mullen ASC said:

The bounce of course would be the same color but any ambience coming from skylight or light from windows not being hit by the sun would be much cooler.

One of my favorite ways to replicate this is a little 1 stop Cyan (Rosco #4330) on a soft fixture bounced into a ceiling or other white surface (beadboard, silk, muslin, etc.) to bring up the room just a touch and add those blue-ish tones.

Good luck with the project and be sure to post screens!

1. Is that a bathroom?

2. That isn't like any drop ceiling that I've ever seen, but I can't imagine that a scissor clamp would have a problem grabbing it. I would definitely bring a Cardellini as a backup if that's an option.

3. I have hung several kino fixtures (4'x2, Freestyle 21, Freestyle 31) from scissor clips with no problem. Make sure you properly attach a safety cable from the ceiling to the back of the fixture, just in case something gives.

Also, be sure that you use the remote cable for the ballast, as to not put the extra weight on the fixture. I usually clamp it along the drop ceiling track with 1"-2" grip clamps.

Good luck!