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Bradley Mowell

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    Springfield, MO

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  1. What particular True RMS meter would you recommend, Guy?
  2. Guy, I seriously appreciate the info and will be sure to double my feeders and oversize the power source. In regard to capturing peak voltage, I’m assuming a clamp meter would be best. Do you have an inexpensive make and model that you recommend? Also, any idea if the Fluke 41B Power Harmonics Analyzer is a good unit?
  3. The ballasts are all retired rental stock. I’d guess they’re about 20 years old…definitely pre-4th edition. I bought 1st and 3rd edition copies of Box’s book to try to find more info about these particular ballasts. I’ve read the section(s) on power factor correction in each of the three editions of Box’s book, but what I don’t understand is this: On 240v single-phase house power, how can excess power return on a neutral wire when the ballasts don’t have a neutral wire? 😂
  4. I wish it was, Ed. Unfortunately, the plate shows 0,7…and emails with Arri confirm it’s non-PFC (no active line filtering). Unless I’ve misinterpreted what I’ve been told, which is entirely possible. BTW, thanks a bunch for the advice about a year ago. Worked like a charm, sir.
  5. I have four Arri 6/12 electronic ballasts that are non-PFC ( power factor correction ) that operate at 190-250v. Each ballast has a green ground, black hot, and red hot. I’ve read that non-PFC ballasts return a lot of excess current on the neutral wire because of low power factor (these are rated at 0.7 PF) but how does that apply to ballasts that operate at 190-250v that have no neutral wire? I’m using 240v location power rather than a generator, so how/where does the excess current from a non-PFC ballast return on a neutral wire in the distribution system? I’m assuming all current is “cancelled out” at 240v between the black hot and red hot. But if, somehow, there IS still excess current, where does it go?
  6. Awesome suggestions, Aapo. I'll look the bulbs over carefully. Thank you! And thanks for the pics!
  7. Hi, Phil. And thank you for responding. It's an Arrisun 120 with a 6/12 EB ballast. These are great suggestions, and much appreciated.
  8. I realize I could probably pay to have them checked out at a local rental house, but what if there isn’t a local rental house within a reasonable distance, i.e. a couple hundred miles?
  9. What should one watch out for when buying a used, larger HMI par without a warranty? If the unit strikes fine, what would it be a good idea to check before making the purchase? Lens and reflector condition? Cable damage? Any particular issues with ballasts? Bulb condition? Etc. Thanks.
  10. Hi, I purchased a used Arri True Blue T5 tungsten fresnel wired for 220v w/a new 220v bulb. The lens and wire screen are fully intact, and the unit itself appears to be in very good condition. Do I simply strike it using the inline switch or should I power it up gradually from a dimmer? Thank you!
  11. Thank you. I contacted them a few days ago, and a transformer certainly does have its advantages, but I was shooting for something more portable and less pricey. I think you're suggestion about contacting someone local to build an adapter is a good idea. As I mentioned to Ed, I'm overly-cautious and hesitate to do electrical DIY projects without clear directions and step-by-step pictures. 😆
  12. Thanks, Ed. Joseph probably has the right idea about consulting with a local electrician to build something for my needs. I'm the cautious type, and without a tutorial or book I'm hesitant to mess with anything electrical (I've installed many a breaker, wired for 240v in my garage, and other electrical projects, but I've always had a clear tutorial to work from - complete with pictures 😂). Unless you know something I could reference, probably best to leave it to someone more in-the-know.
  13. Thanks, for the link, Joseph. However, wouldn't doing it that way mean that each 20amp Edison outlet would only supply 2400 watts to a light? I'm seeking a way to be able to access the full 3600watts from 30 amps to power 2.5k to 3k lights. I apologize for all the questions.
  14. Thanks, Joseph. Looking to build (or buy) an adapter (the dryer outlets are four prong) to be able to access 30 amps (or 40 amps from the range) for 120v lights. Splitting phases for two lines would be great, but one line would suffice. The dryer outlet is 30 amp / the range is 40 amp.
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