Jump to content

Marco Leoncino

Basic Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Occupation
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Here you are the manual. I had to compress it a lot because of the file limit. EDIT: the quality is so bad that I have to remove the attachment... sorry...
  2. Ask and it will be given, it was said! I contacted that company and they sent me the complete 41 pages manual. Who is interested can ask me.
  3. Thank you so much to everybody! I don´t have the control box. I had to rewire most of the cables, because some where very worn. I am able to let the camera run well and to use the switch which stops the camera when the film is finished. I have to say that I am already happy! The most complicated thing in these times is to find 2R film. I bought some Foma R100 and some old ORWO N74 perforated on both sides. 😪
  4. Hi Steve, thank you for you reply! Together with the camera, I have also got several accessories and also a film which I have scanned with my DIY 16mm frame by frame scanning machine. You can find it here: There is an introduction, where they show the experimental apparatus and then the section dedicated to the experiments itself. It shall be some metal deposition on filaments used for vacuum tubes (I am still trying to get in contact with the person who made it, because he is still alive and could perhaps give some more information). I think that the section which is dedicated to the experiment was made with this high speed camera. The film is infact composed of several pieces which were merged with a splicer. Mine shall be a framing camera, because there is the rotating prism. I have also found the following schematics, which shall confirm my hypothesis. There is the possibility to add a second trace (at the time the one from an oscilloscope) from an auxiliary optical path: Thank you for the hint about focusing, probably, without this tip I would have made the focus on the wrong plane! And yes, I also have some spare lamps for the time marking, but at this stage I don´t think I will use this function.
  5. I just want to say that I was letting the film running at high speed and I did not have any issue. The next step will be to find a relationship between input voltage and frame per seconds, but this doesn´t worry me, because I will also follow the indications mentioned above in this topic. I am just not rather sure about focusing. I attach another photo of the focusing film.
  6. This is my camera: The film path: The focusing film:
  7. Hi Mark, first of all thank you very much for having replied to me! I really appreciate that! That's correct, the emulsion faces the lens. Your threading path looks OK but I can't be sure as I can't see enough of the camera. Good, at least I did not make a macroscopic mistake, even if this was just a test. It is really an experience to see 30 meters of film running in about 3 seconds! I can make more photos of the whole film path tomorrow and post them here. The camera is hosted in my office because it is really huge and heavy. You compose and focus before loading with a piece of frosted focusing film threaded around the sprocket and held taut with elastic bands around the reel spindles. Line up the right-angle prism in the sprocket with the gate, then close the lid and compose through the finder. Focus, then fix the focus with tape on the lens barrel, then thread the film. You can make a focusing film by sanding down a piece of clear film about 20 frames long until it is translucent. Fold over and punch the ends for the elastic bands, then draw a thin line with a fine Sharpie on the sanded side so that the eye has something to fix on for focusing. Now I understand why I have found a short piece of "focusing film" with the accessories: I did not checked it yet carefully, but there is an envelope on which it is infact written "focusing film". I must check it more carefully. But I am a bit puzzled, because, also without the focusing film, I was able to see an image in the viewfinder and focus it. Basically, I put the lens, lined up the right angle prism to let the light reflected inside the viewfinder, found a target and focused on that. Now I can guess that I shall focus on the surface of the focusing film instead? Was I focusing on a wrong focusing plane? (sorry for the stupid question...) Are you sure you have a framing camera? Some were modified for synchro-ballistic photography and don't have a prism at all. If the gate mask has a narrow slit rather than a 4:3 gate mask, you have one of these and it won't produce individual frames at all. But ours were WF3s with 100' capacity- I think the WF14 is 400'. Well, I am afraid to tell you that... I don´t know what do you mean with framing camera. My WF 14 is basically this one: https://alphaxbetax.files.wordpress.com/2019/10/1955-fastax-high-speed-motion-picture-oscillographic-cameras.pdf of course I can make more photos tomorrow and put them here. The film capacity is 400 feets (but now, for convenience and also because I could only find limited quantity of double perforated films, only available in 30 meters spool, I am using 30 meters of film only).
  8. Hello to everybody. Since so many years have passed, I don´t have a lot of hope that somebody will reply to my questions, but... I will try anyway. I have also found one of these monster, a WF-14 to be precise and I was able to let it run, find the original lenses, film and some test film. I have some doubt about the loading of the film. Shall it be oriented as in the following images, with the emulsion oriented to the outside of the camera? And, another question: is it correct that I shall compose the image before I load the film? Because, when the film is loaded I cannot see anything in the viewfinder anymore. Thanks a lot, Marco
  9. Hello, I am looking for 16mm film, black and white and possibly negative, perforated on both sides (to be used with a high speed camera). I am located in Germany. Thanks Marco
  10. Hi Thomas, yes, I had bought a nice one with all the 3 Schneider lenses. It was end of December. Then I got it serviced and upgraded by Mr. Bogner, who cleaned, lubricated and installed a new focusing screen (much brighter), new eyepiece and new gum part which couples to the tip of the motor. I also bought two 120 meters film magazines by him and he also checked them. I had to solve the issue of the battery, which I made by myself (8x 18650 Lithium cells to produce 8 volt and several amperes for the huge motor). I had to make a decent battery back which I have inserted in a small camera case (those for the compact cameras). Mr Bogner also sold me a cable for the camera, I arranged the connectors ecc. Then I had to find lens caps. I also acquired, at a very nice price a tele athenar 230 and the original compendium. I have also found a nice shoulder rig and a head for a tripod. Then I purchased film from Orwo. I bought by selling a lot of old stuff on ebay. We are in middle of April now, and finally I have an idea for a decent script.... let´s see!
  11. Good morning, I have a stupid question about the loading of the external 400ft film magazine for the Arriflex 16st camera. This video shows how to do that very well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HchILue86uE&t=394s My question is: when the light can be switched on? When the magazine has been completely loaded (in darkness of course)? Or shall the loading inside the Arriflex camera be made also in dakness? In other words, once you close the external magazine and you have the small loop of film exiting from it, is it safe to switch on the light? Thank you so much! Marco
  12. Very nice link! I think I can manage to do one in the company!
  13. I have a nice Arriflex 16st camera, however, I don´t own the power connector. Does somebody know the name of such connector?
  14. I forgot to activate the automatic notifications, therefore I missed your replies, sorry 😔 However, I saw that camera but I did not buy that, because it was not in good conditions. I have found one Arriflex on Ebay with 3x lenses and already contacted Georg Bogner from Camera Service International in Munich for a complete revision. Since I am based in Germany, that would be the best option, according to what I have read around. He has replied to me already and gave me his availabilty to check the camera.
  • Create New...