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Luke Ogden

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  • Occupation
    Cinematographer
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    London

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  1. Hi there, I own an E2-F6 and I have to say the app is one of the best I have ever used, really, it put's Arri, Red and Sonys equivalents to shame. Having said that it relies on wifi (like most of them) and disconnect. If the 'support' car will always be within a hundred meters and often behind then I would run the HDMI from the camera to a wireless transmitter (such as the Teradek) in the boot area.They have a pretty good 'line of sight range. If you send the camera display overlays over HDMI too then at the very least you can always see what's going on with the camera: exposure, battery voltage, media remaining, audio levels (you'll be able to hear it too, with a suitable monitor), framing etc. Then you can use the app to control the camera as and when you're connected/close enough. And you can do SO much from their app. Definitely look into the eND module too, it allows you to ride the exposure almost seamlessly from the app! Another suggestion is to swap out the stock antena for a larger one.
  2. Thanks for this Stephen, sage advice which corroborates my instincts. The tip about using multiple small solids is a great one. The more I think about it, having an 8x8 silk to fly overhead could also be a good idea if the weather (wind) permits it.
  3. Hi fellow members, I'm trying to come up with a plan for a day exterior; a single subject in (for example) a forest clearing or meadow. The main shot is a wide full-body that shows plenty of the surroundings but I need a setup that works for two cameras shooting simultaneously (the other at 3/4 angle) over the course of a couple hours. Because of the budget and the remote locations involved I have ruled out any HMI's or very large frames (larger than 8x8). So what else are my options to create a little shape and consistency over the shoot? Naturally I'll orient the scene so that any direct sun will backlight the subject. So with the sun at the subject's 6 o'clock and a cameras at 12 and 10 I had thought maybe I could boom in a light or reflector (CLRS kind of thing) on a menace arm from 2 o'clock to give one side of the face more of a key and create some shape. I'm worried this look a little hokey though? Or maybe an Aputure 1200D through a small frame, but I'm worried it wouldn't have sufficient punch. My instinct is that the smaller bounces and solids won't be very effective at the distances they'd need to be from the subject to clear the wide shot. Any advice greatly appreciated.
  4. Hi all, somehow since I last used it a few months back the rear thread on my 10mm (most used lens) has become loose. It just spins round freely so although it can be threaded onto the turret of the Bolex it's not useable. I've taken the back lock ring off and made sure everything is lined up but it won't screw down deep enough to lock the camera mounting thread in position. I hope that makes sense. Has anyone come across this?
  5. Yep, seems painfully obvious now. 😳As you might expect a search for 'cinema products' jut threw up pretty much everything.
  6. I originally hoped it was Bolex Bayonet mount, but the protrusion of the back element and size of the bayonet tabs (sligthly smaller than bolex) lead me to think maybe it's B4 mount. But then, shouldn't one of the tabs have a pin instead of a notch, like a PV lens. Any help ID'ing this one would be welcome.
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