Cale Boys

9 hours ago, Baltasar Thomas said:

If you use the Shape shoulder pad, aren't you able to attach 15mm rods to the back? That would allow for some mounting options to the bottom of the rods. Other options that come to mind are adapting your LTR to take v-mount batteries, or wearing a battery on your belt. 

The base of your LTR looks modified and huge, what is that? Looks peculiar! It protrudes into the section where your shoulder normally goes. 

Yeah true, I could put small rods at the back and buy a mini V-lock battery to run the follow focus. The angle the image is taken on makes it look weird, it's just a regular LTR-7

Image of set up:  https://imgur.com/a/WtzMpFV

I'm wanting to use my nucleus-m follow focus system but need to power the gear via a P-tap connector. What option is there for myself to place a small battery onto my shoulder rig? Any suggestions?

 

On 10/27/2020 at 6:40 AM, Tyler Purcell said:

I don't think being realistic has anything to do with discouragement. We are adults, there is no reason to sugar coat a subject that has been talked about many times, by many people. 

There were talks on Facebook about it being like an A-Cam, which was a non-reflex, non sync sound camera. Yes I know, there was eventually a front block adaptor that gave it reflex ability, it was never designed that way from the beginning. Reflex camera design increases the camera cost substantially. 

I have been servicing cameras for a long time, older cameras are very easy to re-build and get working again. They are mostly all mechanical, only using electronics for keeping time (crystal sync) and stopping the shutter in a certain place. If you can buy an older camera for $3k and re-build it for $2k, for $5k you have a working sync-sound camera. No way can you get the cost of manufacture anywhere near $5k for a NEW sync sound mirror reflex camera, let alone sell price, more about that later. 

I'd love to know who is willing to pay $35 - $50k for a "new" low quantity, spinning mirror reflex, super 16, SILENT (very important), sync sound camera. So far I have not met a single person who is willing to pay that much. Rental house OR consumer and I talk to film people every day, all day. People are perfectly content with the 416/SRIII and XTR Prod/Xtera's, being the "solutions". They really don't want a new camera because it's a risk in their mind. Also, even if you could sell 20 of them, how would stay in business as a manufacturer long enough to support those 20 cameras for the next 30 years? 

So you talk about an MOS, Super 16, beam splitter reflex camera like a Bolex? Now you're in a different world, but the pricing would still be upwards of $8k. Are you willing to pay 8k for a low-production, beam splitter, MOS, Super 16 camera?  Again, SRII's are around $8k already PL mount and Super 16. Change the belt out, clean them up, they become great little Sync sound cameras with GOBS of support and know-how. 

I think what you miss is not just the initial camera cost, but the support. Professionals won't buy into something that doesn't have guaranteed support for a long period of time, they just won't. Aaton is still around. Arri is still around. Bolex is still around. Consumers are a different story, but sadly they don't keep this business a float. Talk to the labs, talk to the rental houses, talk to Kodak, nearly all of their business is professional. So you need a professional camera, but you can't sell enough of them to keep a new business alive. 

Yes, but 10 - 20 sales, does not keep a company alive either. Logmar made 50 of their super 8 cameras and a few of them sat on a shelf for a while before being sold for $5k each. They probably didn't even make that much on those sales anyway. As a company, you need to sell quantity in order to stay a float. You also need to be a big enough company, to train people around the world on how to service the cameras. You also need to be a big enough company to have parts ready to ship at a moments notice to support those cameras. It's not easy, you can't just make a product and say good luck, it doesn't work that way. 

So as my team has discovered, the only real way to make any of this work, is to re-create a camera that already exists. If you can remove the cost of developing new parts, if you already have a machine shop with a rapid prototype machine, if you have engineers on staff working on other projects and using this camera build as a side-gig, then yea... there is a chance over the course of a few years, you could make it work. 

What we wanted to do was start by making all-new XTR Prod electronics and a video tap system that went where the ground glass currently goes. Thus making two of the most critical "updated" parts first. Then we can develop a new lightweight polymer magazine, all workable on older cameras as well. Slowly build replacement parts and offer a service to fix cameras as well. Over the years, it would be a no brainer to make a new movement casing/housing and eventually a complete camera. But you have to start slowly on the things that will sell, things that you CAN sell. I believe there are 3000 XTR's in the world, that's A LOT of cameras that need upgrades/support. Plus if you got the blessing of Pierre, there is a lot more that could happen. It would satisfy the needs for so many filmmakers AND keep what exists a float. 

I personally don't see the need for an all-new camera. I do however, see the need to modify/update current cameras. I do see the need to keep those cameras working through better parts distribution and organizing service. I do see a company who can do that stuff and be successful eventually. However, in our current world, I just don't see the benefit. Maybe if our economy turns around in the next 2 years and people feel secure in blowing money on things they don't need, perhaps. However, with the way things are today, the last thing we need to be discussing is an all-new camera. How about instead, how we're going to keep people working so they can afford to shoot at all. 

Agreeing with Tyler here. An engineer in Russia who so happens to be a cinematographer as well has taken the K-3 and modified it to have an video assist and canon EF mount. I can see current 16mm cameras being converted to a 2020 version without having to create a full new model from scratch. 
All images of the build is here, follow/see the instagram to watch the process: https://imgur.com/a/8BT2bf9

On 10/20/2020 at 6:48 AM, jesse salto said:

I might be interested. Could I get some more info?

Sorry mate, I bought this a month back! 

Looking to buy an Eclair ACL mark II with varispeed S16mm if possible. 

1 hour ago, aapo lettinen said:

it is possible to install a new mount there but you need to open the camera to be able to align the hole correctly so that it does not affect the speed regulator bearing assembly and for you to be able to remove the metal dust and filings which would otherwise fall into the camera generating lots of problems afterwards.

I like to use a separate quick release plate between the camera and rods so that I am able to move the camera back and forth compared to the rods and the tripod plate. This type of system would work in your application too

Ah good to know! Thank you

Just curious if anyone knows if I can drill in this area to create a new screw mounting, I need to move my K-3 forward on my shoulder rig and the current screw mount is too far forward. 

Image: https://imgur.com/a/bfil2Zi

 

12 hours ago, Mark Dunn said:

Well can't you just try it? On mine the button appears to be quite deep, and when I try the cable release it extends forward- the release actually screws into the button- so it needs a long extension.

 

An expensive trial and error buying shutter release cables seeing which one can trigger the stop/start function. 
I’ll keep digging around 

10 hours ago, Mark Dunn said:

I've had mine for decades. I merely suggest it as something to check. I'm not referring to any specific product.

The K3 doesn't have a stop-stop function- you'd need a locking type release if you don't want to hold the button in while shooting. They're on ebay.

https://imgur.com/a/XOOR3yt.  This one would work I think

10 hours ago, Mark Dunn said:

I've had mine for decades. I merely suggest it as something to check. I'm not referring to any specific product.

The K3 doesn't have a stop-stop function- you'd need a locking type release if you don't want to hold the button in while shooting. They're on ebay.

Sorry, I know what you mean. The cable release that locks when pushed down, yeah mine does that. The new information is you're saying the plunger needs to be way longer. I wonder by how much?

10 hours ago, Mark Dunn said:

I've had mine for decades. I merely suggest it as something to check. I'm not referring to any specific product.

The K3 doesn't have a stop-stop function- you'd need a locking type release if you don't want to hold the button in while shooting. They're on ebay.

Could you please link me or tell me the name of the stop-start? Having trouble hunting one down

On 9/3/2020 at 12:51 AM, Mark Dunn said:

Cable releases have a threaded end which screws into the start button. You then twist or press a ring to lock and unlock the release. That still needs two hands unless you're quite dexterous, but I seem to remember back in the day that there was a version that locked automatically, then released when you pressed it again. I don't know how you'd find one now.

BTW I've just tried my K3 and it needs a very long travel on the cable release rod. Mine won't trigger it.

Oh really? I read elsewhere after posting this that a shutter release cable can trigger stop/stop on the K-3. 

Is your cable just a regular one from online? What's the automatically locked one you're mentioning?

3 hours ago, Ben Ericson said:

Very cool. Do you know who that rig belongs to or if someone makes that grip that fits the Bolex shutter release.

I'm curious, have you had bad results with the stability of the K3 when just shooting with the pistol grip and the viewfinder? I've had very good results with the Bolex and the Bolex Pistol grip.

Unfortunately that’s a random post on Facebook but I did read the owner bought a small rig handle and just drilled a normal shutter release cable through it.

im actually building a rig with a nucleus-m handle to pull focus with my left hand and then a stop/start button with my right right hand. I might need to take down this post as I found out you can stop/start by just plugging in the cable to the front like the Bolex can. 

Thinking out loud here, maybe super gluing a thick piece of metal on the end of a cable release, and when pushed it pushes the record button down?

Rough photoshop edit here: https://imgur.com/a/Ac8farK

I'm trying to rig up my should rig handles to be able to stop/start on the record button via a lever/cable or some sort without having to actually hold it in all the time, this is will free up my hands to stabilize the camera. 

Here's the camera: https://imgur.com/a/fTB1euW

Here's an example of the Bolex system that has it so you can just use a shutter release cable plugged in like this (unfortunately the K-3 doesn't work like this) : https://imgur.com/a/bKbKbYu

What sort of leaver can I run down the handles that when squeezed/pushed, it pushes down on the front record button?

10 hours ago, Dom Jaeger said:

Have you compared the cost of buying from the US plus shipping and delays to just buying from a local seller like Cameraquip?

Hey Dom, 

I actually get all my film from Camera Equip and Memory Lab in Richmond. There was a cheaper deal going for this online saving about $25 each roll and I thought why not. 

Now its been over a month I’ve completely forgotten about them and only reliazed when I got the notification that they’re coming. 
 

Might save them to last and use them for not an important project.

I ordered 2 rolls of 250D 100ft rolls from the States to Australia on July 20th and they're only arriving in Australia now. By the time they clear customs and get to my door, potentially 5th of September. 
Would the film be okay being left out of the fridge that long/sitting around/x-rays?

Thanks John! 

I just received my K-3 along with 3 different filters, just curious on all three do. I'm aware the yellow one would be an 85B filter, though still don't know enough but anyone of them. 

Cheers !

Images: https://imgur.com/a/bztKDXl

Yeah I have sorry, don’t how to delete a post On here haha

There is no way in hell a package this big is going for $4K...this is worth over $10k USD

After a good Bolex EL or even a EBM. Just seeing what’s here before going to eBay..

cheers 

Contact: hello@calejamesboys.com

Regretful sell but times are tough... 

This camera works well, runs well, everything is smooth. It's missing its glass prism/beam splitter. I was in the middle of upgrading my camera and parts when financial difficulties hit and I'm no longer willing to upgrade it.

2x HS Mags, both work well, rubber is coming off for obvious reasons. Other than that, both are fine. Comes in a hard travel case.

Looking for $7K USD

images: https://imgur.com/a/HKnkha3?fbclid=IwAR1SUaOtDSb9bRaTHDz-jiQZxQzNhzXCj1PN4aBtd40tGJm8z5L6E4mo8X8