Erren Franklin

Thank you! It took quite a long time! I scanned in phases- first the raw scan, then I painted a segment of the film and had that scanned, and then I painted and scratched the film again and scanned it a third time. I used a cheap light table and rewind cranks I bought from Van Eck. The frame size for regular 8 is 3mm x 4mm (tiny) so I used a jeweler's eye loupe to orient myself, but it was extremely challenging to try to accomplish detail.

Hello! I've had good help here on this forum on numerous occasions, and I wanted to share a film I just made with this community that I think would appreciate the techniques I that used. I shot it on reversal B&W regular 8 film, with a Bolex H8REX4 with the REX4 Switar lens set, an Angenieux 6-80mm zoom lens (with a flange mod done by Jean-Louis Seguin), and a fisheye lens attached to the 12.5mm Switar. I also used a Canon Cine Zoom 512 and a Leicina 8V. All visuals were accomplished with matting, double-exposures, and effects lenses. I hand-painted (actually drew on the film with fine-tipped color pens) and scratched the film. Hope you like it!

Hello! I'm looking for somewhere that will service my Canon DS8. Du-all does not work on this camera. I'm at a loss! Please help!

Dom- Physical exposure time is .75 seconds. That cannot be altered.

Hi Dom! It was made by Stephen Bonnell. Not a Tobin or NCS Revolution intervalometer.

Hello! Posted this originally to the super8 forum, but there are many Bolex users here, so I'm sharing here too. I've recently purchased an intervalometer for use with my Bolex H8REX4. It's the kind that uses the 1:1 drive shaft. The maker says that the exposure time is .75 sec but says that Bolex light loss from the prism means that exposure should be set to a .5 sec exposure time. I'm having a difficult time working out the math for how I should compensate for this exposure time when I set my aperture. I assume I'll need ND filters. Does anyone have any guidance here? I'd love some simple help, ie: tell me how many stops I need to compensate for, but I'm also into finally trying to understand the math so I can figure this stuff out myself in the future. Any help will be much appreciated! Thank you!

Hello! I've recently purchased an intervalometer for use with my Bolex H8REX4. It's the kind that uses the 1:1 drive shaft. The maker says that the exposure time is .75 sec but says that Bolex light loss from the prism means that exposure should be set to a .5 sec exposure time. I'm having a difficult time working out the math for how I should compensate for this exposure time when I set my aperture. I assume I'll need ND filters. Does anyone have any guidance here? I'd love some simple help, ie: tell me how many stops I need to compensate for, but I'm also into finally trying to understand the math so I can figure this stuff out myself in the future. Any help will be much appreciated! Thank you!

Thank you Dom! And thank you for your guidance!

Yes! The arc was five separate exposures! :)

I've had a lot of help on this forum, so I thought I'd share a film here that I made. I shot this film primarily on regular -8, but there are short sequences on super -8. Regular -8 cameras used - Beaulieu MR8, Leicina 8V, Canon Cine Zoom 512, Bolex REX4, and Agfa Movex Super. Super-8 cameras used - Zeiss Moviflex GS8 and Nikon R10. Reg-8 film stocks used - 50D color neg and 100D Ektachrome reversal from John Schwind, 250D color neg from Mutascan, 500T color neg from FPP. Super-8 film stocks - Kodak Ekta 100D and 500T color neg. All visual effects were achieved through matting and shooting through color filters and prisms. Hope you like it! A Rainbow in Curved Air

Thanks Martin! NCS is actually making me a couple of intervalometers, one for my H8REX's and a cable release one, but it's taking a while and I wanted to know if there were other options out there so I could start shooting some projects I've been eager to do. I'm surprised this is something that's so hard to find!

Does anyone know where I can get a cable release intervalometer? I shoot primarily on regular 8mm but also super-8, and I'd really like to be able to do timelapses with the ones that don't have built-in intervalometers (I have several super-8s w/built-ins but no regular 8 cameras came with a built-in intervalometer). Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hey there! I'm working on a set of films shot on reversal film that I intend to project in medium sized concert halls averaging 500 person capacity. I've done quite a bit of research about what projectors I need for this, but I thought I'd ask here as well. My main needs are: 1. Projectors with the ability to project at distance. 2. Projectors that will not damage my films, which will be spliced carefully with film cement. A secondary question here hinges on whether or not color reversal and/or black and white reversal film can be spliced with film cement. 3. I do not think a dual-8 projector will satisfy what I am looking for. I would rather get the best super-8 projector available (or something close to it) and the best regular-8 projector, as I imagine a dual-8 would limit my ability to have the best of either. A secondary question here is about power- I've seen information that Elmo GS-1200 models are optimized for Japan's electric system and might not be compatible with American standards. Does anyone know anything about this? 4. Does anyone know of reputable sellers for projectors of the caliber I am looking for? Thank you, Erren Franklin vimeo.com/errenfranklin

Thank so much for the tips to both of you. I will definitely run a test and let you know how it goes. Also, one question. I had the flange depth on an H8RX modified to match that of non H8RX C-mount lenses, so I could mount other C-mounts on it. I wanted the option to use other C-mount zoom lenses. My question is about whether or not my aperture setting on whatever C-mount lens I use would be different than an aperture setting on the H8RX lens. Is there going to be a difference?

Thank you so much, Martin! I'm going to follow your advice and follow these steps, and I will report back. One question though- the short film test shoot- are you recommending that I do so separately from or prior to doing metering tests? In order to test the camera? Thank you, Erren