Erren Franklin

9 minutes ago, Kamran Pakseresht said:

Absolutely beautiful- how long did it take to finish?

What was your setup for scratching and drawing on the film, did you use rewind cranks over a light table?

This really is just so cool.

Thank you! It took quite a long time! I scanned in phases- first the raw scan, then I painted a segment of the film and had that scanned, and then I painted and scratched the film again and scanned it a third time. 

I used a cheap light table and rewind cranks I bought from Van Eck. The frame size for regular 8 is 3mm x 4mm (tiny) so I used a jeweler's eye loupe to orient myself, but it was extremely challenging to try to accomplish detail.

Hello!

I've had good help here on this forum on numerous occasions, and I wanted to share a film I just made with this community that I think would appreciate the techniques I that used.

I shot it on reversal B&W regular 8 film, with a Bolex H8REX4 with the REX4 Switar lens set, an Angenieux 6-80mm zoom lens (with a flange mod done by Jean-Louis Seguin), and a fisheye lens attached to the 12.5mm Switar. I also used a Canon Cine Zoom 512 and a Leicina 8V. All visuals were accomplished with matting, double-exposures, and effects lenses. I hand-painted (actually drew on the film with fine-tipped color pens) and scratched the film.

Hope you like it!

Hello! I'm looking for somewhere that will service my Canon DS8. Du-all does not work on this camera. I'm at a loss! Please help!

Dom- Physical exposure time is .75 seconds. That cannot be altered.

Hi Dom! It was made by Stephen Bonnell. Not a Tobin or NCS Revolution intervalometer.

Hello! Posted this originally to the super8 forum, but there are many  Bolex users here, so I'm sharing here too.

I've recently purchased an intervalometer for use with my Bolex H8REX4. It's the kind that uses the 1:1 drive shaft. The maker says that the exposure time is .75 sec but says that Bolex light loss from the prism means that exposure should be set to a .5 sec exposure time. I'm having a difficult time working out the math for how I should compensate for this exposure time when I set my aperture. I assume I'll need ND filters. Does anyone have any guidance here? I'd love some simple help, ie: tell me how many stops I need to compensate for, but I'm also into finally trying to understand the math so I can figure this stuff out myself in the future. Any help will be much appreciated! Thank you!

Hello! I've recently purchased an intervalometer for use with my Bolex H8REX4. It's the kind that uses the 1:1 drive shaft. The maker says that the exposure time is .75 sec but says that Bolex light loss from the prism means that exposure should be set to a .5 sec exposure time. I'm having a difficult time working out the math for how I should compensate for this exposure time when I set my aperture. I assume I'll need ND filters. Does anyone have any guidance here? I'd love some simple help, ie: tell me how many stops I need to compensate for, but I'm also into finally trying to understand the math so I can figure this stuff out myself in the future. Any help will be much appreciated! Thank you!

14 hours ago, Dom Jaeger said:

Fantastic work Erren, well done!

Thank you Dom! And thank you for your guidance!

19 hours ago, Joerg Polzfusz said:

Wow! That’s impressive! Have you really done all these arcs/triangles/fragments scenes as multi-exposure as an in-camera-effect?

Yes! The arc was five separate exposures! :)

I've had a lot of help on this forum, so I thought I'd share a film here that I made.

I shot this film primarily on regular -8, but there are short sequences on super -8.

Regular -8 cameras used - Beaulieu MR8, Leicina 8V, Canon Cine Zoom 512, Bolex REX4, and Agfa Movex Super. Super-8 cameras used - Zeiss Moviflex GS8 and Nikon R10.

Reg-8 film stocks used - 50D color neg and 100D Ektachrome reversal from John Schwind, 250D color neg from Mutascan, 500T color neg from FPP. Super-8 film stocks - Kodak Ekta 100D and 500T color neg.

All visual effects were achieved through matting and shooting through color filters and prisms.

Hope you like it!

A Rainbow in Curved Air

Thanks Martin!

NCS is actually making me a couple of intervalometers, one for my H8REX's and a cable release one, but it's taking a while and I wanted to know if there were other options out there so I could start shooting some projects I've been eager to do. I'm surprised this is something that's so hard to find!

Does anyone know where I can get a cable release intervalometer? I shoot primarily on regular 8mm but also super-8, and I'd really like to be able to do timelapses with the ones that don't have built-in intervalometers (I have several super-8s w/built-ins but no regular 8 cameras came with a built-in intervalometer). Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hey there!

I'm working on a set of films shot on reversal film that I intend to project in medium sized concert halls averaging 500 person capacity.

I've done quite a bit of research about what projectors I need for this, but I thought I'd ask here as well.

My main needs are:

1. Projectors with the ability to project at distance.

2. Projectors that will not damage my films, which will be spliced carefully with film cement. A secondary question here hinges on whether or not color reversal and/or black and white reversal film can be spliced with film cement.

3. I do not think a dual-8 projector will satisfy what I am looking for. I would rather get the best super-8 projector available (or something close to it) and the best regular-8 projector, as I imagine a dual-8 would limit my ability to have the best of either. A secondary question here is about power- I've seen information that Elmo GS-1200 models are optimized for Japan's electric system and might not be compatible with American standards. Does anyone know anything about this?

4. Does anyone know of reputable sellers for projectors of the caliber I am looking for?

Thank you,

Erren Franklin

vimeo.com/errenfranklin

Thank so much for the tips to both of you. I will definitely run a test and let you know how it goes.

Also, one question. I had the flange depth on an H8RX modified to match that of non H8RX C-mount lenses, so I could  mount other C-mounts on it. I wanted the option to use other C-mount zoom lenses. My question is about whether or not my aperture setting on whatever C-mount lens I use would be different than an aperture setting on the H8RX lens. Is there going to be a difference?

Thank you so much, Martin!

I'm going to follow your advice and follow these steps, and I will report back.

One question though- the short film test shoot- are you recommending that I do so separately from or prior to doing metering tests? In order to test the camera?

Thank you,

Erren

Hello!

I know there are various forums where I could post this question, but I know from experience that there are some very knowledgeable folks here.

I've been shooting 8mm (regular 8 ) for many years now but have mostly relied on cameras with automatic exposure or TTL light meters, like the Leicina 8v or the Canon Cine Zoom 512. I've recently accomplished a long-term goal of mine- getting a CLA'd Bolex H8RX4 with the three H8RX lenses (5.5mm, 12.5mm, and 36mm). To really shoot properly, I need to up my metering game. I've had a Sekonic L-398A for 15 years. First question - does the photo sensor ever wear out? If so, would it have worn out if I kept in the dark most of the last 15 years? Second - I've found guides on calibrating it, which I could follow, but I'm wondering if there is a reason to and a way to calibrate that is geared toward the cine meter/cinematography? 

Lastly and most importantly, if I was to take a simple light meter reading with the Sekonic (set ISO, meter and set footcandles, find aperture setting according to cine framerate) and adjust the lens to the aperture reading on the Sekonic, would it be accurate for the Bolex? Or does the Bolex shutter angle and shutter speed complicate this setting? If so, how would I adjust it and what would I need to know to be able to do so dependably, no matter the light reading?

Thanks so much for your help!

Thank you, Simon! I snagged it!

I scored one for cheap- it came with the bracket but not the rods that screw into the c-mounts. Does anybody out there have a bracket with rods, or just the rods, for sale?

Thanks!

Hi, I know this is the super 8 forum and this lens is for H16RXs but I know that some of you who frequent here will have some crossover familiarity with this lens due to knowing the 8/19/1.5x. I primarily shoot 8mm and have a couple of H8 RX4s being CLA'd at the moment. First question, would this lens work with an H8 RX? Second question, the 16/32/1.5x lens I have has the bracket, but not the rods that would screw into the 2 c-mounts on a Bolex. Anybody out there have the bracket and rods or just the rods that they would be willing to sell? Or, does anybody have a different mounting idea?

Thanks!

On 6/1/2020 at 9:13 PM, Dom Jaeger said:

Hi Erren,

I‘ve serviced all sorts of cameras and lenses for clients, but being in Australia I try to encourage people to find local technicians. 

Sometimes old cameras can’t be serviced back to “perfect running” without new parts, although Standard 8s are usually pretty durable. The other problem is most techs will be unfamiliar with them, and it can take a lot of time to work out a camera without service information, especially complex reflex ones. I think in the end your best option might be to just invest in a few cameras and use the ones that work best. The only exception would be a Bolexes, which still have good service support.

You will need patience to find good examples of the cameras you’re looking for, but they do pop up. I used to scour foreign eBay sites like France, Germany and UK for rare models that may have only local postage offered (so don’t show up on other eBay sites) but if you contact the seller they may change their mind and post it overseas.

I’ll have a look through my collection, as I serviced some of my Beaulieus and maybe I could sell you one. I have other cameras, including Canons, that I’ve used successfully too. I’ll PM you when I’ve found time to go through them.

 

Hey Dom,

Thanks so much for the reply and help. I think you're right, I just have to be patient and continue scouring eBay. Searching foreign eBay sites is not something I had thought about, such a great tip! I have a friend in Germany and I'm already shipping a camera to her so she can ship it to me.

Yes, please look through your collection. I'm eager to know if you have anything that you think I might be interested in. Thanks for looking for me!

Thank you Aapo, yes, I believe you're referring to my other thread. I'm not looking for camera suggestions so much as I'm looking for places where I can purchase cameras that I already know that I want, but more importantly I'm looking for someone or some business that can assuredly repair and/or service the cameras that I have. Simon Wyss does this? He responded to my other thread. THat is good to know. Thank you for the recommendation!

Also, the Leicina 8V has been one of the most reliable cameras in my collection, and right now it's the one I use the most.

Last time I posted about choosing a regular8 camera, I received such great help, so I'm hoping you all will feel inclined to help me once more.

Having boiled down the list of regular8 cameras that I am seeking to a just a few models, I've been searching far and wide on the internet in order to purchase them.

The cameras that I am seeking are:

1. Canon Cine Zoom 512

2. Beaulieu MR8 Reflex control (w Gossen light meter)

3. Agfa Movex Reflex

Unfortunately, these are all so hard to find! The ones that I have found and purchased all have problems. They need repairs and/or servicing. Problem is, I don't know who can repair and/or service these cameras. Bjorn Andersson says he cannot and will not service Beaulieu regular 8mm cameras. I'm aware of Bernie O'Doherty, in fact he is doing a basic service on a Beaulieu MAR8G that I sent to him, but I'm wondering if there are other options out there. I would be willing to consider paying possibly substantially more than these cameras are worth in order to have perfectly running versions, especially considering the money that I am spending on the duds that I am finding on eBay.

So my questions are threefold.

First, what are your preferred sources for purchasing regular8 cameras? I am aware of Catawiki, obviously eBay, and Etsy. Do you know of any shops that specialize in 8mm cine cameras that sell tested, functioning cameras?

Second, do any of you have any of the cameras that I have listed above, that are clean, tested, and functioning, and you would be willing to sell to me? I am getting desperate! Do any of you have personal shops with various 8mm cameras for sale?

Last, who can service these cameras, dependably? Do any of you do servicing? I would guess that there are repair and service businesses/individuals in the LA area, but I have not had any luck in finding them. Do you know of any there? It does not seem impossible to find repair/service for super-8 or 16mm, but it does seem impossible to find it for regular8!

Help! I am running some very interesting, striking, film experiments and I will be very excited to share them with all of you, but to really do my thing I need better cameras! Please help me!

And thank you!
Erren

I found the the Grading, DI, and Telecine section of the forum and was able to get a lot of good information, so I think I'm good, unless anyone feels inclined to anything.

Thanks!

Hey everyone,

Thanks again to anyone and everyone who responded to my questions about regular 8 cameras.

This particular issue has likely been rehashed many times in this forum by now, but since I'm new and the most recent discussion I found regarding this topic was in 2018, I would like to ask what people's current preferences are for labs and for scans. Generally I process with Spectra and have my scans done at Movette film transfer locally here, where I live, in SF. Movette does a cheap fresh film 720p scan but also does 1080p and 2k for regular 8 and super8, and I generally like their prices. Spectra's website seems to indicate that their scanning technology is vastly superior to most other places, and Pro8mm is now marketing a 6.5k scan. I'm starting to worry that even a 2k scan isn't sufficient... is that foolish? Also I'm about to start hand-editing a lot of my reversal regular8 film and I want to have high quality master scans of the unedited film, and I'm wondering if I should get the best scan that I can afford. Another issue is I find Spectra's pricing structure for scanning to be confusing. So with certain variables in mind- pricing, quality, customer service and professionalism- I'm wondering if y'all have thoughts on this topic.

Thanks to all!

I appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions. A lot of this stuff has been so hard for me to research, and therefore it's really priceless to be able to ask such knowledgeable folks directly.

Thank you!!