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Will Montgomery

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Posts posted by Will Montgomery

  1. There are so many variable wall-wort power supplies out there I'm sure you could find one to match perfectly. Those batteries will almost certainly need to be re-celled and when you do it may require different ma. Good news is that the new batteries will last much longer than the old ones did when new.

  2. Not sure how anyone can offer a guarantee past it working when you receive it back on a 40 year old Super 8 camera. Way too many other things that can break on them. That's why I just tend to buy them whenever I see them at garage sales and eBay at a good price...repairing them generally costs more than they are worth except for the high end ones from Leica, Beaulieu & maybe that Nikon.

     

    However, it's worth it if you send a Beaulieu to Bjorn in Sweden you'll get back a camera that is probably better than brand new and he can reasonably guarantee it because he has the original factory parts available and completely loves what he does.

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  3. I love the 35-IIC design but there is no way it is steadier than a 435, or an Arricam

    Every tech I've talked to about the 2C vs. later Arri cameras has agreed with Dom. It's fine for quite a few applications, especially when you're moving the camera quite a bit, but the registration on the later generations of Arri III's and the 435's are noticeably better.

     

    On SR2's vs. SR3's...I've used both quite a few times and honestly haven't noticed a difference in registration but these cameras were well maintained and I wouldn't have expected to see a difference. SR3's feel a little more solid but just that is completely a subjective experience. I suspect it would be easy to find SR2's that are more beaten up due to age however.

     

    I had an SR1 that was adjusted by an Arri tech in NY that was just great so for me it really comes down to maintenance and wear.

  4. Hi guys,

    do you know, if it is OK to send 35mm film to lab without a film core ?

     

    It's not preferred but generally it can be ok; just make sure you CLEARLY note that it doesn't have a core for the lab because they will have to insert one. Obviously make sure the outer end is taped securely so it doesn't un-spool in transit. Best to call the lab before and make sure to follow what they suggest.

  5. Loop formers definitely will scratch film. Doesn't mean it happens on every camera all the time but I had that issue multiple times until I had them removed and never saw it again with that camera. Got pretty good at making the loop without them and preferred it for loading.

     

    Don't forget to clean that gate before loading each reel! :)

  6. Ektachrome 100D should be coming back out for 16mm soon...I would test that stock but of course David is absolutely right about the lighting style...you'll have to test quite a bit.

     

    If you don't have a ton of experience in lighting and film use, you can even try to simulate the ASA of whatever stock you use with a digital camera (i.e. 100 ASA) with the same lenses get it to where the lighting and exposure works then replace the digital camera with film and test to see what you get. Something like the original Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera with a S16 sized sensor set to flat might get you in the ballpark.

  7. Second, 2 perf has hard frame lines so buildup of emulsion particulates on the bottom of the gate is very common. . using less feet which means you can use less negative.

    Good point here. 3-perf is definitely a great option...saves 25% in film costs but gives you flexibility in post.

     

    Personally, I feel 16mm requires a lot of work to look good these days.

     

    True. Unless it's the look you're going for...like new Redford movie or Walking Dead or even a high-end home movie look. When you're in the 35mm world however there are more and more arguments to go digital (***gasp!***) with the most modern cameras.

  8. My suggestion would be to buy 400' loads and have a reliable lab spool them down to 200' A-Minima loads. Bigger labs probably have a stash of the A-minima reels and know the winding requirements; just call around. It does add an extra step to be able to use the camera and takes planning but it is an excellent (and expensive) camera.

  9. As far as the Scoopic lens, I really can't emphasize how amazingly sharp it is throughout most of the aperture...this is the MS & MN models; don't have experience with the original grey model.

     

    There is a commonly found wide angle adapter specifically for the Scoopic but I've never felt the need for it.

     

    I have and rent high-end Zeiss glass for my SR2 and yes I can tell a difference, but for what I use the Scoopic for the lens is perfect. If I'm shooting in extremely low light, I'm going digital my friends; an extra stop or two isn't going to make the difference most of the time.

     

    Another plus to the lens is being able to zoom in, get tack sharp focus then zoom back out quickly to frame. This is actually one of the best aspects for me although not unique to the Scoopic.

     

    When I pick up the Scoopic I'm letting go of absolute control, I'm going for quick, easy, quality image and less missed shots. When I want to control everything I bring out the SR2.

     

    It's all about what you're comfortable and used to. I was really comfortable with my K3 especially loading it...but I was very UNCOMFORTABLE with winding it constantly and missing shots because of that.

     

     

     

    The big problem is not the price tho... it's the re-loading and the film. The film wind is backwards, so you're always winding your own film. Plus, the camera has a difficult threading pattern which makes it not easy to re-load in a run and gun setting.

     

    That's what labs and multiple mags are for. :) I still have original Kodak A-minima loads in the fridge, but if I'm re-loading I just have the lab do it for me for free (as long as I promise to process there.)

  10. The bolex is a superior camera to the Scopic in pretty much every way. Not just the gate, shutter, pressure plate design, but also on the electronic cameras the drive system is stellar. The interchangeable lenses are a key advantage, especially since the Scoopic's lens isn't that fast or wide. Yes the Scoopic is cheap and fine for entry level, it's just a limited camera in my view.

    Perhaps superior depends on your needs. Even though the lens is not interchangeable, I've had multiple colorists ask me what lens I was using because of how amazingly sharp it was, especially for regular 16mm. Honestly never seen the need for another lens and I use my SR2's with Zeiss glass constantly as well.

     

    I've never owned a Bolex so I can't speak to it; the pressure plate design may very well be superior and I'm sure it's a finely made Swiss product. But on a practical level, the Scoopic is hands down the easiest loading 100' 16mm camera ever made and that makes a big difference when you're changing reels at an event.

     

    The built-in battery and motor drive is excellent, compact and easy to use as well as the built-in meter which I've used constantly for the run-n-gun type shoot...usually taking a reading then locking down the exposure.

     

    For anything where I can put a camera on sticks, I'm an Arri/Zeiss guy. When I'm shooting backstage at a concert or home movies or any event that I can shoot film at, the Scoopic rocks.

     

    However, I would put the A-Minima at the pinnacle of run-n-gun shooting but that is a much different price point.

  11. I received a Wolverine 8mm scanner as a gift. It's plugging away right now on a reel. Before even looking at the quality of the scan, what I notice is the amount of time it takes to actually scan a 50' reel. Like 1-3 seconds per frame. It advances the frame then adjusts the frame to line up properly before scanning then moving to the next frame and repeating.

     

    You must have a ton of time on your hands to use this thing.

     

    My goal is just to scan some reels for reference before choosing what to send out for real scans.

     

    It does have a switch to handle negative film which is a positive (pun intended) but really honestly it's just for knowing what's on the film...and an 8mm viewer would be much quicker. But if you can put it in a separate room (the constant clicking will drive you crazy) and let it do it's thing then a crappy little reference scan isn't so bad.

     

    The other minor plus is that it is very easy to use...

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