Will Montgomery
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Posts posted by Will Montgomery
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All that said, the B&W sequences in this film were shot in S16 on Double-X, some exceptional work here by Raoul Germain:
Viscaya in Miami... what a beautiful place to shoot. I wonder what it cost him for that opportunity?
On Double-X, it definitely has it's own look. I found to my amazement that I could actually push Double-X with acceptable results. Grainy, but you don't use Double-X if grain is a concern.
Weren'tt the early black & white shots from the last James Bond movie shot on Double-X?
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Just wanted to point out that Les Bosher did a very good job at an s16 conversion with a recentered Nikon mount on my K-3. I guess the gate only conversion is simple enough to do on your kitchen table, so tempting to many. But the cost was not too bad for having it done properly.
Good to hear someone can do it right. I've found a major difference in shooting Super 16 vs. Regular 16 when my lighting conditions are less than they should be. I do get tired of winding that camera though... looking forward to a motor solution if it ever is released. I missed out on Clive's motors.
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The lenses would theoretically cover the 16mm frame but you need to be able to manually adjust the aperture; something that may not be possible with all modern DSLR lenses (Nikon's newest don't provide a manual aperture ring).
It really would be easier just to pick up some older m42 Super-Takumar Pentax lenses. They are pretty reasonable.
There are certainly adapters from m42 to Nikon and Canon mounts, not sure about the one you mentioned.
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I haven't been through an xray and i need to expose firelight which is why I am commited to a high asa stock.
Here are some stills - Does it look like typical grain for kodak 500T?
Doesn't look out of the normal grain range for V2 500T based on such low light. Test the new V3 stock, see if that helps.
Hard to tell from stills but the grain doesn't really bother me from what you've shown... what are your camera/lens settings?
Might be a crazy idea but could you go to 35mm for these firelight scenes? If you're finishing digitally it might be an interesting way to do it.
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Did you happen to go through an airport with your film? X-Rays can certainly lead to (what appears to be) shocking grain.
500T has the most noticable grain because of it's ASA, but it's lightyears again of the old Vision 800T which I found to be almost unusable.
Remember that higher ASAs are not a substitute for lighting. Just because you can get a meter reading at F1.4 @ 24fps doesn't mean there's really enough light... those super low light situations bring out the worst in any stock. But a little well placed lighting can go a long way.
Yes, Fuji 500T is slightly more grainy than Kodak's.
Vision3 500T should help a little on grain and give more detail in shadow areas but if you're unhappy with current results I'd re-consider your lighing and shooting situation before hoping that Vision3 will solve any problems.
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K-3 are rarely (if ever) actually converted to S16 properly by recentering the lens mount, so your distortions are going to be slightly unevenly distributed. Especially on the Peleng 8mm, you'll see more distortion in the Super 16 expanded right side than the left side. I only notice it on that lens, not really on the Mir 16mm lens I have.
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If you do a search on B&H Photo's site they have a good selection of C-Mount lenses and categorize them by 1/3", 1/2", 2/3" and 1". Look on the side for the category.
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Just reviewed some Tri-X reversal shot with Rolando's idea of using the LA7200 anamorphic adapter...
I was actually impressed with how sharp it was. My exposure was off a little and I'm not quite sure why; it seemed over exposed so I will do more scientific tests in the future. But when the focus was correct it actually looked ok.
I reviewed it on a Millenium HD machine so it was a great platform to view it on. Unfortuntely I was just playing around with it and didn't really put it through a formal test although first impressions are positive.
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Don't tease!
Get this thing out soon!
If I had two cameras I'd buy two.
My hand is sore from winding that camera.
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Very nice, please post some clips when you get it back. Maybe even post a small segment of the video tap and the film to compare.
How was it winding the camera with the lens mounted like that? I've seem some winding attachments on the web that might be a nice and inexpensive addition to the rig that would make it easier for you.
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Since you are talking about SLR lenses, if you want more of a wide angle lens get a Nikon to M42 adaptor and check out some wide angle Nikkor lenses.
Just make sure they are fully manual aperture capable lenses.
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Here are a couple stills a took from a recent shoot with my Scoopic. Focus is slightly off. Not quite sure if the grain matches 100T, might be slightly higher. While I am happy with it, so much depends on the colorist that it is hard to really judge it fairly. I'm too used to Kodak stocks and find it harder to get the results I'm looking for from Fuji.
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How much would an Arri S Super 16 conversion cost?
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Haven't had that problem on my Scoopic, but I'd try contacting someone who works on them directly...
I've worked with Bernie O'Doherty at Super 16 Inc and Du-All Camera in NYC and been very happy with their communication. They could probably tell you what's involved with a repair of that nature.
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It just seems to me that if you need to do that much to a Super 8 camera, why not just go 16mm?
Part of the beauty of the Super 8 system is it's simplicity and ease of use. Autoexposure, while anoying sometimes, has it's advantages. At the very least you can use it to set the exposure then lock it without having to carry a meter.
Yes, it is good that a company offers it but at $3500 it just seems expensive.
However, I am considering their Canon 814 AutoZoom mod for $500 to make it meter their stocks properly and allow the motor to handle the heavier film.
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Nice looks, what stocks did you use?
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The "expression" 500T has a very "pastel" look to me. Low contrast. Don't think it will play well with the 50D or 250D. It's closer to Fuji's stocks than other Kodak stocks. Has it's uses and looks great on people closeups, but you may want to stick with 7218 or 7219 to match your daylight stocks better.
Try a test to see, best to experience it so you have the look in your head when you're shooting.
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Don't even waste your time or money shooting THAT stock. Ideally, it should have been in a freezer for the past 2 years to still be in perfect condition. Had it been in a fridge, then there's still a chance. But in a closet for two years, it most likely has experienced quite a bit of age fogging.
Really? Plus-X? I wouldn't have thought it would be that bad... and why would it edge fog? Wouldn't that be from exposure while loading or accidental opening of the can? Wouldn't it kind of just get less contrasty and maybe foggy all over? But even then I would have expected it to take more than a couple years for it to be an issue even not refridgerated.
Jonathan, since you don't have much time to test it, I'd suggest calling Kodak TODAY or TOMORROW and have them send you 4 reels of Vision2 500T (or Vision 3 500T is it's available in 100' loads yet) and shoot with that over the Holidays so you can be sure. Or just order some fresh Tri-X. Then shoot that other stock when you have time to test it and it's not critical.
Also, Holiday events are often inside dark rooms so having a 500T negative stock may help you quite a bit. Also plan on having a camera light.
Kodak can send film 2-Day for like $9.95 in shipping... they get great deals on that.
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Can you post a photo of what you're talking about? I have an m42 mount and there's no release, you just turn it until it unscrews and I thought the bayonette mount was the same way.
It did stick really bad the first time I tried to remove the lens however.
Do you have the manual? It can be found here...
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M42 Mount is a screw mount; it looks like a screw with threads.
Bayonette mount has notches like a Nikon 35mm camera lens that lock into place.
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Intriguing! Perhaps now I might go look for a 4008. Anyone know if Du-All Camera is a reliable dealer?
Yes, they're reliable and shoot straight. The cameras sold there are well tested and their modifications are very good. They did my 16mm K3 mods to Super 16 and even widened the viewfinder (something I had been told couldn't be done.)
However if you're looking for camera repair or modifications consider Bernie O'Doherty at Super 16 Inc. as well. He is his own little company and has been modifying 35mm, 16mm & 8mm cameras for almost 40 years so he knows his stuff and is generally a little less expensive and not always as backed up with work.
He has a proprietary process of brightening a viewfinder that really is amazing.
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If you're shooting family get togethers go for it, but if you're shooting something that will be released, it's rarely worth the risk unless it's from a reputable recan house and even then there's risk, just less of it.
Do you know any students? Maybe at least you can get a discount that way...
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I think A-Minimia reels are 200ft but they are wound backwards or something... maybe you could call Kodak and ask about them, see if they are on a daylight type reel.
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Adding grain
in 16mm
You could try a really grainy black & white stock too...
Double-X negative is pretty grainy.
Strange Fogging On K3?
in Russian Gear
Posted
I wonder if it has to do with your eye covering and uncovering the viewfinder before and after you stop the film. I've found a fogging issue with my Scoopic in that regard sometimes, although it was more of a hazy white fog and not a red color which sounds more like what I get at the end of a roll from loading and uploading. If I had to guess that would be my first one... sounds like the film on either side of the gate in the loop is getting exposed somehow and you seem to do a good job sealing up the film compartment.
I've never had an issue with fogging from the door itself and I never tape it.
With my K3 I seemed to have a problem where it would be perfectly in focus for three or four frames then go soft. Bernie O'Doherty at Super16inc seemed to solve that problem for me although I'm 100% convinced its gone.