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Miguel Angel Calderon

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  1. Polar Pro Variable ND Filter 2-5 stops | 82 mm In excellent condition: No scratches, no cracks, smooth turning. It works perfectly. Location: Valencia, Spain There are two veeery thin and small cleaning marks, almost imperceptible, only visible under a specific angle. I have not been able to capture that on the photos, but I want to mention it anyways. They are barely noticeable and make absolutely no effect on the image. The hard case has some scratches on the exterior as you can tell, since I carried it with some of my other gear. It works perfectly though. Includes: 82mm 2-5 stops PolarPro VND Filter DefenderSlim Filter Cover Magnetic Hard Case Price is 155€ net to me + shipping from Spain. I can ship to other countries as well, but it may be too expensive. VAT free invoice for those with a valid EU-VAT number.
  2. Hello friends, I recently stumbled upon this video on Youtube: Basically, he compares and "old" Red Scarlet X camera to a BMPCC 6K, and actually ends up prefering the former. Just based on how the sensor feels. I currently have a BMPCC 4K and I'm fairly happy with it for now (I jumped from the 8-bit slog of the Sony A7 III), but sometimes I struggle with the highlights, trying to not blow them. Dark scenes are hard, as there is some noticeable noise. Playing with BRAW has been wonderful, so it would be hard for me to go back. I'm wondering, would a camera such as the Red Scarlet X would be a good upgrade? I think with some patience it would not be difficult to find a good deal and probably more affordable than modern options: Komodo (which I've read mixed reviews about), Sony FX6, Ursa mini 12k.... To be honest, I'm not very familiar with the Red ecosystem or history of sensors. From what I've gathered, the Misteryum X sensor falls a bit behind the later Dragon sensor, so I'm trying to get a sense of how they perform and if at this point it's best to prefer a more recent one. If you have some reading or comparison videos, I'd appreciate it. 🙂 Cheers!
  3. Dear Satsuki, Thank you for your message and pardon for my late reply. I got busy soon afterwards and forgot about the topic I started! I undestand. Also, the 2-pin port on the BMPCC 4K accepts 12V-20V according to Blackmagic's manual, so it should be fine. I couldn't find the amps the camera needs, but I found it requires 22W to function, so that means with a 95Wh battery I'll get 4,3 hrs of runtime. I couldn't find the amps for the Nucleus Nano, but I think it will be safe to assume it won't be something a 95Wh can't handle. 🙂
  4. Dear community, I apologize in advance for my notorious ignorance on the subject... I'm in the process of building a rig for my new Blackmagic Pocket 4k and, rather than just copying whatever I see on YouTube, I'd like to understand how to properly distribute power from a battery source. Now, It's been a while since my physics classes in school but I've found some info online, though I still like to get other people's opinion on the matter. So, a BMPCC 4K requires 12V of DC power (7,4V if connected via a dummy LPE battery) Ideally, I'd also like to power my Tilta Nucleus Nano (5V) and, if possible, my Atomos Shinobi (6.2V-16.8V). Now, I've seen some people power all of this from a single 14.8V V-lock battery. Obviously, this seems to work for them, but I wonder, is it really safe to use ONE battery for all of this? One of my main concerns is that I obviously don't want to fry any of my devices, but then I see people connect a D-tap cable from the 14.8V battery to the 12V port on the Blackmagic. Does that mean that the camera only draws the voltage needed? When is the "risk" of damaging a device with a battery? Or perhaps I'm just looking at this the wrong way and should focus instead on the current needed for each device, and then see if the sum adds up to the capacity in my battery? On the other hand, I've also seen this adapter from Smallrig which transforms the 7.4V voltage from an NPF battery to 12V so that I can power up the camera. At a glance, it seems like a more cost-effective solution, as NPF batteries are much more affordable than V-lock. Is that something you would suggest? Again, please pardon my ignorance. If you have some reading or articles on the matter, I'd appreciate it. Cheers from Spain
  5. Hello community, I'm looking to purchase a monitor, mostly for video editing and color grading, and I wanted to get some thoughts on what people over here recommend. :) My budget is around 500 USD. I'm looking at two options right now: BenQ PD2700U and BenQ SW240 The PD2700U is a 4K monitor with 100% sRGB and Rec709 and 1300:1 contrast ratio, while the SW240 is 95% Adobe RGB and 1000:1 contrast but only FullHD... This is actually my first monitor, so I'm still learning a lot, but from what I can gather, color bit-depth and contrast ratio seem to be the most important. Obviously, 4K resolution sounds nice, especially since I edit 4K video, but I'm not sure if it will make a difference on a 27" monitor or if it will draw too much from my CPU/GPU. I will be using it with my MacbookPro 15" (2016) with a Radeon Pro 460 (4Gb), mostly with Premiere Pro, Davinci Resolve and Blender (I do 3D animation as well). 've looked at other offerings from LG, Asus and Viewsonic, but somehow it seems BenQ seems the most bang-for-buck on this price range. Any thoughts or recommendations? Cheers!
  6. Well, it turns out that this thread got more replies than I expected! Thanks everybody for the answers. Very glad to see an interesting discussion on business models and how to evaluate revenue from investments. As I assumed, it seems it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a fixed value "per day" for every piece of gear, that way I can see how much I've really invested in every project. It's also a good way to realize how much I should really be charging! It seems there were a couple of jobs where, actually, I didn't really make any money (considering the gear I brought)... Yes, a lot of this may have to do with the fact that I have not treated my video purchases as business-minded purchases. As many other young artists, I've financed my gear through other means. But let's face it, since I want this to be a viable profession, then it would be wise to be more business oriented. Happy holidays everybody!
  7. Hello everybody, I'm trying to be a bit more thoughtful when making a gear purchase (who doesn't want to buy more lenses! haha). I was wondering if you had any tips on what % to use to calculate if a gear purchase has actually paid itself over the number of "days" I've used it. For example, if I bought a 2000€ camera, how many "days" would I need to use it? I'm looking at rental websites, to see what kind of return they would make, and I see anything between 2-4% of the "new" value per day. That also gives me an idea of what I would pay to rent that camera if I had never decided to buy it. So I'm trying to use 3% as a standard, which would mean every day I have it on set, it would make back 60€... I don't know how fair is this thinking since I obviously use that camera outside of jobs/projects for tests, learning a bit more, just playing and having fun, etc. If any of you have any thoughts or ideas I'd love to hear them! Or if you just don't think much about it, let me know, it might be less stressful that way! Cheers
  8. Thank you for your answers everybody! Long story short, I'm keeping my A7III for now and bought a new light (!!). I'm practicing more with it, how to nail my exposure and play with lighting to get the results I want. Yeah, I'm stuck with 8-bit for now, but I once I set up a shoot, I kind of just forget it.... David, I didn't know that E-mount was designed for cropped sensor cameras. Well, when I think about it, it makes sense... but it's a shame Sony didn't think ahead... I want to upgrade to 10-bit (or even 12-bit) in the near future, but now I'm thinking it's best to practice more until I really make a good use of it. Then I could go for a blackmagic or a proper cinema camera. The Panasonic S5 is probably a better performer than my current camera, but I don't think now it's worth the hassle of selling and buying a new one.. thanks again!
  9. Hello community, I wanted to ask for some advice. Not sure if most of you would rely on mirrorless cameras, but I'm tired of getting info from YouTubers selling LUT packs. 😅 So if anybody has some comments on the topic, I'd greatly appreciate it. I shoot mostly video and I own a Sony A7 III. I'm not really happy with the 8-bit codecs (or the rolling shutter or bad IBIS), but I’ve got used to it somehow. I would like to upgrade, but I’m torn between switching to a Panasonic S5 or waiting for a “future” Sony A7 IV next year, hoping it does at least 4K 60p 10-bit (which is more than I would be happy with). The Canon R6 could be a good option as well, but it seems to overheat quite quickly... Right now I have only vintage manual lenses, so no sweat on changing systems. I may buy an autofocus lens in the future, but it’s not really a must right now. Sadly, I don’t have the funds to invest on a proper cinema camera or the new Sony A7S III, and I want to take stills as well, so selling and buying another hybrid is only option. The S5 has a great price and AMAZING controls, but the IPB codecs, 30min time limit, mini HDMI and ok rolling shutter make me wonder if it’s best to wait a bit more… Any thoughts? Greetings from Spain!
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