Floris Vanhoof

I found the lens cap for the Meteor.

Any idea where to buy 80mm rubber tubing that could used as sunshades for the Meteor lens?

The eyecup on my Krasnogorsk 3 is too small, so I'm wondering if there would be a universal rubber eyecup (oval, like Bolex) that would fit on the K3.

And which inexpensive front lens cap and sunshades would fit the Meteor lens? 

Hi Johanan,

I'm curious if you have pictures of this setup.

Did you use a specific kind of servo motor with linear actuator? 

Any idea if these ones would work? 

update: 

I reinforced the Lowepro inverse 200 aw with some old US LC2 suspenders, and this makes it much easier to carry.

Also tested a Marmot-Walkabout oversized pack, but the Lowepro zipper is way handier for the camera.

Other carrying advice and methods are still welcome.

Last 2 weeks, I made thousands of single frame shots with my Bolex EL, each with their own light measurement.

And now when the light meter button is pushed in, the light meter works, but does not jump back after waiting long enough nor after pushing the release knob to start filming.

This problem occurred gradually, first only sometimes and now all the time.

After waiting minutes, there's a soft click,  and after this I can fiddle with the light meter button to stop measuring the light and start filming.

Anyone experienced with this? Or ideas how to solve this problem?

Thanks on beforehand.

Floris

With internal dimensions 30.5 x 15.3 x 21.2 cm, my Bolex body just fits inside the Lowepro inverse 200 aw beltpack.

I enjoy carrying the camera this way, but filming would be less of a hassle using a beltpack that's a little bigger, so the lens can stay on.

Any suggestions for camera waist bags, hip bags, and belt packs (not rucksacks)  from professional to completely DIY solutions welcome.

How is everybody carrying a 4 kg camera on day hikes?

https://www.lowepro.com/be-en/inverse-200-aw-black-lp35236-pww/

I can confirm that these connectors will fit but I'm still searching for the same in an angled, "L"-shaped version to make the wiring more compact.

After almost one year, I'm very happy with the NiMH recelling of the original battery pack that fits to the camera.

This makes the camera (with detached lenses) fit in a Lowepro inverse 200 aw bag that I take on long hikes and can even be strapped to my handlebar.

One of the two metal parts that connect the cell to the camera got lost though so I'd be happy to buy one of these or an old EL battery if someone has this.

Thanks for the tips David and Doug.

Someone wil need to focus during the screening then, as only one side has sprockets and I rather not go dimmer.

After years of reversal, I'm only started filming on negative stock this year. 

Happy it's not my splices that make it unsharp.

Thanks!

I filmed on 3 different stocks, and spliced them together. (2 work prints and one reversal stock)

In projection, when a new stock begins, it is out of focus and I have to refocus.

Is it because of the slight thickness in film? Because of the precise cut of the splices? Or because of the tape holding the stocks together?

Is this normal and is there something I can do about this?

After summer, I will have a negative cut and proper prints made, guess that will solve it anyway. 

But for now, I learn a lot from splicing the work prints and showing them as a work in progress that can evolve every screening. 

Thanks!

Is there a tutorial or manual how to take it apart?

Otherwise I'll take it to a technician in Brussels next time.

ps: would it be a good idea to lubricate this switch, without taking the camera apart?

Hi, 

When making singel frames, the switch lever on the side of my Bolex H16 likes to stay in the P position.

I have to give it the switch a little touch to go back to the middle. What to do about this?

On my other Bolex, a well working SB, this jumps back to the middle with ease.

I've been searching and asking around for a Bolex EL technical manual or camera technician for a while and can't find any. Definitely following this and curious for pictures if anyone opens your camera.

Anybody tried this with a solenoid? Curious for what type, as my 12V solenoids are not strong enough to push the button. 

I'm making a more portable power pack inside the old small Bolex Battery enclosure that connects nicely to the camera door.

-Does anyone has a mouser code or link to the female angled "L" shaped connector that connects to the Bolex socket?

Do these come close?

https://www.mouser.be/Amphenol-Tuchel/Connectors/_/N-5g3y?P=1z13jw3&No=100

https://www.distrelec.be/nl/din-socket-5a-250v-poles-socket-lumberg-connect-gmbh-wkv-40/p/30068577

-I will put 3 LI-ION cells inside, or is there a reason to use NiMH cells in stead? (I'll be buying a new adapter too)

Hi Duncan, thanks for the info!

What would be the reason for using NiMH cells over Li-Ion?

Those Li-Ion will fit nicely in the old small Bolex Battery enclosure I still have.

If I use NiMH batteries in this enclosure, the battery will run out much faster.

Thanks for the advice. Floris 

I'm also going for a more portable battery next attached to the camera door.

links to battery packs used and mouser parts of "L" shaped connectors are welcome

curious if this got solved

Just learned the Bolex M4, M5, SB and SBM also have these mounting holes, so they would be very welcome too.

Want to buy a well functioning Bolex H16 REX-4 or 5. (normal 16, super 16 or ultra 16)

These rex 4 and rex 5 have mounting holes on the body of the camera that I need to attach an intervalometer. 

My H16reflex doesn't have this so I can offer it as partial trade.

Other possible trades: Hokushin and Eiki 16mm projectors and lenses, Nikon lenses and bellows, Kodak Carousel projectors and lenses.

unfortunately nothing about this in the manual

http://hparchive.com/Manuals/HP-120B-Manual.pdf

still a great tip.

I'll see if there's other scopes with info in the manual available.

I just tested some inexpensive universal lens caps:

a 37mm cap fits on my Macro Switar 26mm lens

and 43mm cap fits on Macro Switar 50mm lens

next up is the plumber store for tubing to make the hoods

thanks!

that also explains a shot of smeared images on my last roll.