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Floris Vanhoof

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    camera BOLEX EL, projectors Eiki, Hokushin, B&H
  • Specialties
    Experimental films on 16mm for art installations and expanded cinema performances.
    Homemade musical circuits and modified 16mm film projector.
    Multiple exposures, macro shots, computer controlled interval timers.
    Tech for installing 16mm film loopers and slide projectors at museums, 16mm projectionist for events

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  1. Thanks for the tips David and Doug. Someone wil need to focus during the screening then, as only one side has sprockets and I rather not go dimmer. After years of reversal, I'm only started filming on negative stock this year. Happy it's not my splices that make it unsharp.
  2. I filmed on 3 different stocks, and spliced them together. (2 work prints and one reversal stock) In projection, when a new stock begins, it is out of focus and I have to refocus. Is it because of the slight thickness in film? Because of the precise cut of the splices? Or because of the tape holding the stocks together? Is this normal and is there something I can do about this? After summer, I will have a negative cut and proper prints made, guess that will solve it anyway. But for now, I learn a lot from splicing the work prints and showing them as a work in progress that can evolve every screening.
  3. Thanks! Is there a tutorial or manual how to take it apart? Otherwise I'll take it to a technician in Brussels next time.
  4. ps: would it be a good idea to lubricate this switch, without taking the camera apart?
  5. Hi, When making singel frames, the switch lever on the side of my Bolex H16 likes to stay in the P position. I have to give it the switch a little touch to go back to the middle. What to do about this? On my other Bolex, a well working SB, this jumps back to the middle with ease.
  6. I've been searching and asking around for a Bolex EL technical manual or camera technician for a while and can't find any. Definitely following this and curious for pictures if anyone opens your camera.
  7. Anybody tried this with a solenoid? Curious for what type, as my 12V solenoids are not strong enough to push the button.
  8. I'm making a more portable power pack inside the old small Bolex Battery enclosure that connects nicely to the camera door. -Does anyone has a mouser code or link to the female angled "L" shaped connector that connects to the Bolex socket? Do these come close? https://www.mouser.be/Amphenol-Tuchel/Connectors/_/N-5g3y?P=1z13jw3&No=100 https://www.distrelec.be/nl/din-socket-5a-250v-poles-socket-lumberg-connect-gmbh-wkv-40/p/30068577 -I will put 3 LI-ION cells inside, or is there a reason to use NiMH cells in stead? (I'll be buying a new adapter too)
  9. Hi Duncan, thanks for the info! What would be the reason for using NiMH cells over Li-Ion? Those Li-Ion will fit nicely in the old small Bolex Battery enclosure I still have. If I use NiMH batteries in this enclosure, the battery will run out much faster. Thanks for the advice. Floris
  10. I'm also going for a more portable battery next attached to the camera door. links to battery packs used and mouser parts of "L" shaped connectors are welcome
  11. curious if this got solved
  12. Just learned the Bolex M4, M5, SB and SBM also have these mounting holes, so they would be very welcome too.
  13. Want to buy a well functioning Bolex H16 REX-4 or 5. (normal 16, super 16 or ultra 16) These rex 4 and rex 5 have mounting holes on the body of the camera that I need to attach an intervalometer. My H16reflex doesn't have this so I can offer it as partial trade. Other possible trades: Hokushin and Eiki 16mm projectors and lenses, Nikon lenses and bellows, Kodak Carousel projectors and lenses.
  14. unfortunately nothing about this in the manual http://hparchive.com/Manuals/HP-120B-Manual.pdf still a great tip. I'll see if there's other scopes with info in the manual available.
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