Floris Vanhoof

good tip, hadn't thought of this

 I'm printing, but I might try this later on anyway just to see how it looks.

The Bolex EL manual says the R knob is for reverse motion at 18fps - not for filming, only for rewinding.

So is it completely impossible to film in reverse?

I'm also curious which mechanism in the camera prevents filming while rewinding.

And should one close the viewfinder and lens while doing reverse motion the film?

Thanks for the reply. 

When doing Ektachrome, I got 1 meter of film as a test developed overnight at our the local photography lab.

They could hang it next to the usual 35mm slide films.

With negative, I don't really know other then 30 meters and having it scanned (above my budget this year).

Thanks for the reply!

I will film with the exact same scope as in the YouTube video. 

Indeed with more complex patterns, it would be great also to capture the trace while not burning in the shorter lines.

I got good results exposing the Vision3 250D film at ISO 160 and filming double exposures one stop down.

End medium will be 16mm film.

I should also mention that I will probably do multiple exposures (rewind the camera) with different color filters on the oscilloscope, and my Bolex EL has a build in light meter.

Also: what would give the best result: Color filters just in front of the lens or onto the screen of the oscilloscope?

Next week I'm filming wave patterns on an oscilloscope from the 70's on 16mm with Kodak 250D.

How should I measure the light coming from this oscilloscope screen to keep the waves from over exposing and the background black?

good idea!

That's how I worked with a microscope and 35mm SLR once. 

Though I don't know if this is possible on the Bolex EL. Can't find that setting.

I'd love to read any documentation on how to connect my Bolex EL 16mm camera to a Honeywell Repronar or Bowens Illumitran slide copy systems.

I have an animation stand, and can use other bellows etc for macro, so those parts of the Illumitran or Repronar I don't need.

The main thing is how to trigger a flash on those slide copy systems when a single frame is made on the Bolex EL.

If easier I can also use a Bolex H16 RX for this.

Switar 1:1,4 - 25mm H16 RW

Yvar 1:2,8 - 75mm AR

Switar 1:1,8 - 16mm H16 RX

My 25mm has a little bump in the outer ring, so might be hard to screw an existing hood on.

ps: I'd rather have a fitting flexible hood then a 3D printed one as 3D prints I can do are mostly reflective and so stiff they will fall off of not fit on if a little too big or small.

Can anyone suggest a type of tubes or other material to make hoods for my C-mount lenses? 

I'm thinking of black, opaque, non-reflective, flexible rubber tubing that would slide over the front of the C-mount lens.

My lenses are 3,3mm 3,4mm and 3,5mm wide.

Any help where to look and what stuff to use is welcome. 

Hi Dom,

thanks for the info.

Is there a list of repair specialists somewhere on this forum?

I've just read on and electronics forum that relays can also "stick" electronically.

Yesterday it was the first time I used an interval timer with this specific camera.

So the camera received around 700 trigger pulses over 90 minutes, each time asking for the starting load of 4 amps. Could this have burned out the relais? And could this be causing the behavior described in my post above?

It would be great if someone over here has a Bolex EL repair manual for me.

This is my first post on this wonderful forum. I've learned a lot here already the last months.