Walt van der Aar

5 hours ago, Duncan Brown said:

Well a motor that needs work is much closer to being a working motor than no motor at all!  (Or one that needs 3-phase power, yikes!)  If I had to guess, I bet the 12-27V upconverter is the problem.  Most of these old motors need a whole bunch of amps, and little converter boxes like that are rarely up to the task.  I bet a real 27V battery belt would have that thing flying.  But, as you say, a lot of money to risk on a guess,.

Duncan

Thanks Duncan. I'm gonna dive into the matter and think about it. Thanks for the advice. Cheers

57 minutes ago, Duncan Brown said:

I know nothing at all about this era Eclair, but is this a suitable motor for your camera?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/145044427703

(Not mine, just saw it in passing and remembered this thread.)

Duncan

Thanks and it's definitely the kind of motor I'm looking for. Unfortunately in the description it says it needs a service. So I'm not sure whether to buy it and take the risk. Thanks anyway!

On 11/5/2023 at 11:28 PM, aapo lettinen said:

Some kind of old synchronous motor. You can run it from single phase 220v by connecting one of the motor phases with capacitor. Pretty simple modification but can be very dangerous if done wrong so let a certified electrician do the job. Things like small industrial/agriculture fans, laundry machines etc. use similar kind of capacitor arrangement and any electrician familiar with those can do the modification for you.

Cameflexes never had brushless motors, they are 40's/50's cameras and brushless technology was not available for cameras back then

Thanks for your response. I've read somewhere that it's possible but I will lose about 30% of motor power. Is that true?

17 minutes ago, Fabian Schreyer said:

Is it a brushless DC motor that you got? If thats the case you might be able to get it running just by using any cheap BLDC controller. Photos of the motor and its labels would help.

I'm not sure. Does this help?

Hi!

I recently acquired a Eclair Cameflex 35mm camera. It came with a motor but unfortunately it is a 3 phase motor. I've looked on eBay but no luck there. Anyone selling a motor that is capable of 24/25 fps or can direct me in the right direction?

Kind regards.

Did you get any information? I'm interested as well!

hi!

Soon I will be shooting a project on the Amira. Though we will be grading it to black and white. I was wondering if anyone had some experience with this process and has lighting tips. I know on black and white film daylight lamps will have more 'output'/intensity compared to tungsten lights. But I'm not sure how it works on digital. Is there a difference in color/grey rendition between these sources or can I just use them all together. Some real daylight will enter the location so I'm thinking about shooting at 5600K. 

Any input is appreciated, thanks.

Hi,
I just read an article from kodak about Paul Thomas Anderson's new movie Licorice Pizza (https://www.kodak.com/en/motion/blog-post/licorice-pizza). In the article they are talking about 2 speciality lenses Anderson used (and has used in the past). 

"PTA knew going into “Phantom Thread” how he would thematically use some of his favorite lenses, like the 14mm “Gordon Willis lens” or the antique 50mm antique Pathe he had converted to spherical (it was used to shoot anamorphic on “There Will Be Blood”)."

Does anybody know which 50mm pathe lens and which 14mm they are talking? I'm intrigued!

Hi!
I'm looking for a Panavision XL2 manual. Can't find it on the Panavision website, and thought maybe someone has a pdf somewhere. If not, I'll give them a call tomorrow.
Cheers!

Thanks for all the replies. I went to my friend that owns a LTR too and checked with his accessories. He has a different rods support system. I compared mine with his and they seem to be different. Maybe mine is a standard 16 model? I don't know...

Will try to get a new one like this: http://www.visualproducts.com/storeProductDetail02.asp?productID=2057&Cat=3&Cat2=33

Thanks again. Cheers. 

2 hours ago, David Sekanina said:

No problem either with a Chrosziel 450-02 on an XTR Prod

Thanks for your response. Good to know it is possible. I will try some other things. 

Nice setup (and pentax in the background)! 

13 hours ago, Tyler Purcell said:

I've actually had no problem with my chrosziel box, works like gang busters with the built-in rail system on my XTR and 35III.

Can you show some pix of the box and the problem? You for sure need a box that has the center mount and is not fold out.  

Thanks for your help. After fiddling around some more I noticed the matteboxes are only a little too low on the Penelope but are in fact in the middle. However on my LTR they are noticeably too low and too far to the left. Maybe it is a problem with the LTR (little older than the XTR)? In the picture you can see what I mean. (The picture is taken as parallel as possible)

Hi!

I bought a chrosziel mattebox (compact wide angle housing 4:3) to use on both the aaton LTR and Penelope. When I tried using it I noticed it is off-center (too low and too far to the assistent side) on both cameras. I also used my friends chrosziel mattebox and had the same problem (other model). Is this something common when using the Aaton rods, or is it a chrosziel thing? Unfortunately I can't adjust the height nor the horizontal placement.

Which matteboxes are you (succesfully) using on Aatons?

Thanks!  

3 hours ago, Michael Townley said:

Thanks dom, That makes sense. So I would really only use spherical lenses for 3 perf? 
 

Would it make more sense/more cost effective to shoot 3perf with spherical and frame for 2.40?

If shooting 4perf with anamorphic what ground glass would I request? I would assume I need an anamorphic optic viewfinder to de squeeze the image in my diopter. 
 

 

I have never heard of 3perf anamorphic but someone has probably done it before ?

If you want to shoot 3perf spherical and cropping to 2.40, I'd suggest looking into the 2perf format. It's not that common, only some camera's can shoot it (the arricam lt not for instance), but it will save roughly another 25% over 3perf.

When you're shooting 4perf anamorphic you would use an anamorphic viewfinder. 

Good luck shooting!

This definitely looks like solarization. You could try developing in complete darkness until the re-exposure. Maybe your developing tank has some little light leaks? Solarization from my experience only occurs if light hits the film when using the developer. 

You could also try doing some longer re-exposure. I prefer giving the film too much light over too little. 
Good luck! 

https://elokuvakonepaja.com/product/aaton-power-adapter/

for some more inspiration ?

Hi! 
I'd like to repair my zeiss 8mm t2.1 standard speed lens for 16mm camera's. The focus markings are not correct anymore. Looking through the viewfinder gives me an estimate that the 3m mark is actually infinity. It works but my close focus is very long because of this. My local rental house tried to service it but said they could only repair it by changing it to another mount. I was wondering, could it be a back focus problem? Or does the whole focus mechanism needs to be serviced. 
If so, do you maybe have an address here in Europe? (living in the netherlands myself)
Thanks in advance!
 

Hi! My dad and I own an Aaton Penelope. I know 2 rental houses in the Netherlands that own them too, camalot.nl and camerarentals.nl. And one of, if not the, best Aaton technicians owns one too (cinefacilities.com). That makes 4 of the 48 in the Netherlands!