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Jacek Kropinski

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    Director
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  1. Thanks Dom: I 'll try that. Read about the acetone in that great guide you posted above but wasn't sure where the seam was. The back element was screwed in very tightly and when I managed to remove it saw that a light shiny adhesive or lacquer of some kind had been applied to the thread there which made it difficult to remove. Wish I had known about the acetone then! Really appreciate your expertise and knowledge thank you. Once I get it off I'll let you know.
  2. Yes Frank I have tried everything on the front, the machined section, and the back section - that step on the front element is a shadow as I mentioned - i looked very closely with a jeweller's loupe and can see no seam in the front unless it is hidden. There is definitely a seam on the back where the zoom tube meets the front machined head but not knowing if it is pushed on or screwed in so I don't know which way to exert more force. It is a very cheap and mass produced lens so most likely it is glued rather than screwed but I don't want to destroy it unless I have to. Getting close to that though 🙂
  3. The front section: there may be a joint disguised as or hidden by one of these step rings within the hood but I have looked with a magnifying glass and can't see one on the outside. The shadow from the light makes it look as if there is a joint here at the top but there isn't that I can see. Having a schematic diagram or knowledge of the lens is I think the only way one could know where the join is.
  4. Yes Dom - I also have a Eumig and the design is the same but the Eumig (being German) has a superb design and come apart very easily. Here is a photo of the section I cannot separate - it looks as if there is a join or seam where the zoom part enters the machined silver and black 'hood" but short of putting it into a vice and destroying it, I have tried everything to twist or pull it part. Knowing if it was pushed together or screwed together would help. There is no access from the front of the lens (that I can see) which is how the Eumig lens comes apart.
  5. Yes, precisely Dom! I would never attempt to disassemble a "good" or expensive lens. It's the disposable aspect of the lenses which fills me with bravado.
  6. Thank you Frank. Yes, I have the back off and have separated the lens into 2 sections but can't split the main section to get to the inner lenses. I suspect some kind of adhesive is holding them together - I think it might be easier to get a new lens they go for nothing on eBay. But FYI lenses are not as scary as they look - I've cleaned many in my lifetime and it's generally a fairly simple mechanical process.
  7. Does anyone have a schematic or any information on how to dismantle a Bell & Howell 18-30mm projector lens? I recently came across a superb 462A projector that is like new in every respect except the lens has fungus on the inside elements. I can split the lens in two with the removal of two side screws in the picture, and have removed the back element but cannot get to the internal elements. Any suggestions or information would be greatly appreciated.
  8. Thanks Dom - that is exactly what I am going to do. Many thanks for everyone's input.
  9. Thank you Frank. Double Regular 8? But the sprocket holes are vertical and in the middle of the frame. From my research Double 8 is 16mm film with regular 8mm perforations on both sides, exposed by flipping over and then splitting after processing. If this is indeed Double 8 would that then explain why it's not plying on a regular 8 equipment?
  10. Dom I have been in the business for 40 years - I know super 8 film but hadn't heard of DS8 until last week when I received these rolls. Here is the projector and a snap of the film:
  11. One of the projectors I tried was Bolex 18-5 - I bought last weekend. I researched an and saw how gentle it is on film so I did that right at least 🙂
  12. Thanks Dom. I was a surprised as you are and asked the associate to double check and he confirmed it. As he was asking someone else for advice I think you may be correct that my question was misinterpreted in the chain. However, the DS8 footage is offset as you say and beyond all frame adjustment of the equipment I am using. Which is why I posted. And yet the equipment plays regular Super 8 no problem A real conundrum.
  13. Thank you Dom. The film is slit and on Super 8 200ft. reels. It simply does not play on Super 8 equipment. The same equipment does play normal super 8 perfectly. I called Pro8mm here in LA who are DS8 experts and behind the push to revive it. They told me this morning it will not play on regular 8 equipment. And yes, my biggest concern is to not damage the film in any way which is why I am being so cautious. I appreciate your advice. Thank you Aapo. The film is slit and on Super 8 200ft. reels. It simply does not play on Super 8 equipment yet the same equipment does play normal super 8 perfectly. I called Pro8mm here in LA who are DS8 experts and behind the push to revive it. They told me this morning it will not play on regular 8 equipment. They told me it can be played on a 16 mm equipment but as it is split only half the frame would be filled. That sounded weird to me because one half of the film would not be supported through the gate which is why I came to ask the experts here. And yes, my biggest concern is to not damage the film in any way which is why I am being so cautious. I appreciate your advice. Thank you.
  14. Thank you Frank but the film is slit and on Super 8 200ft. reels. It simply does not play on Super 8 equipment. The same equipment does play normal super 8 perfectly. I called Pro8mm here in LA who are DS8 experts and behind the push to revive it. They told me this morning it will not play on regular 8 equipment. And yes, my biggest concern is to not damage the film in any way which is why I am being so cautious. I appreciate your advice.
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