Should there be anyone considering a DIY rewash, I stress that you need to really think twice. If the rewash is not done absolutely exactly right, you will end up with embedded hairs and dirt in the emulsion that was not there before, plus possible smearing, cracking or burning of the image, water spots and you can even trigger VS with it. This is absolutely a "lab only" process.
Yes I realize this is my first post here so the first thing people are likely to say is that I am full of crap because they don't know me, but I likely have more experience and expertise with this process as well as variations on it of anyone not retired or dead at this point. Also the Kodak "recipe" that was published in the 60s is simply not ideal for modern film stocks. From a scratch perspective, at best you will only see the most minor and lightest of thin black lines disappear from following the recipe.
FYI the rewash machines built by Debrie, RTI, etc are junk. I've looked through all of them and none of the designs are acceptable. With a rewash you get exactly one shot, and it has to be right. The ideal settings and mixtures vary between acetate and polyester, as well as between different stocks themselves. There IS a science to it if you want incredible results and if you don't want to send your film to an early grave.
For ultrasonic cleaning, HFE is a joke in my opinion. Perc definitely does a better job, but sadly some locations simply don't have a choice and cannot use it. We have 9 machines which have been gutted and upgraded to our own modified design and have been fully automated right down to the entire reclaim process. All of them are perc-based. I would have stuck with trike if it was still available though.