Taki Bibelas

Your way is logical and even better because you use the 85b instead of the internal 85, but the .2nd should work as well on the lens. Yes if you set the camera to daylight it will meter for 25asa, but that should be fine because it will engage the internal 85 filter. 64T is 64asa for tungsten and 40asa for daylight. If Kodachrome was 40 and 25 asa and the 64T is 64 and 40 asa, that means 2/3 of a stop over exposure in either setting (daylight or artificial). The .2 nd filter on the lens will remove 2/3 of a stop so you will get correct exposure in both cases, daylight or artificial. So in daylight mode it will meter for 25 asa, but the .2 nd on the lens will reduce the exposure 2/3 of a stop, which is correct for 40 asa. I've been going over this in my head all day, seems correct and logical, but who knows.

Thanks, I just got two here from Hoya a 85C and a 2ND. I think the 85C will not be enough and the film will be too blue and a bit over exposed. I found a 85 from B&W that I can pick up before I leave for the trip, close enough, otherwise I'm pretty sure the 2ND and the switch set to daylight should work fine. Unless I got something wrong ???

I know they are great, I shot a Documentary with one, and a lot of it was in the water. The dry land images were even better then those from the Nizo 6080, maybe the more closed shutter, who knows, but it was great. All with the last batch of K40. You can see a bit here...

Actually if you had the switch to "daylight" It would engage the 85 filter and meter you should not have any blueish image. Your way is a bit better because you don't ned the in camera filter and the 64T is a bit better with an 85B, but the difference is only 200 degrees Kalvin. I have been having trouble finding a good thin 85b 46mm filter in stock anywhere here in Paris (should of got one in NY when I was at B&H last week) So I will have to try to find a .2ND for the lens otherwise I will glue a .4ND gel on the meter, re notch the cartridge to be 160 ASA and hope it does not come off in the surf.

Did you ever just try a .2 ND filter on the lens instead of the 85B ? It would have the 2/3 of a stop you need for the 64T and you would keep the daylight or tungsten switch the way it used to be.

Sorry about that. Taki is my real name, but I added my last name as well. Hope that's ok now.

Thanks,I'll give it a try. I was thinking to try the Kulh UT 18 (50 asa daylight agfa) but I never shot it and didn't want test it on my Indo trip this month.

sounds like a great idea. No water gets in between the camera lens and the filter ? and the pma filter on top of that fits as well ?

Not a bad idea, but don't you mean in "tungsten mode" (switch to bulb) otherwise in daylight mode you will have two filters in place and the image will be very warm. Is that right ?

That would work too, but was my other solution valid? Would 64T in a camera that was set to Tungsten meter at 40 and properly expose the film even though giving it a blueish color?

I was wondering if anyone had success using 64T in the Eumig Nautica ? I know we can... 1-look for velvia, but it's hard to find now. 2-tape a .2 ND on the front of the metering sensor, but it comes off under water. 3-use a filter on the lens, but it just collects extra water drops in the sea 4-try and fit a .2 nd in the gate, but I'm not really up for that. I was thinking that with the filter switch to tungsten the metering would think it was K40 tungsten and measure for 40 asa. 64T is 40 asa in daylight. So would it measure correctly ? I know it would be blue, but I kind of like that and can correct it a bit in post. Just wondering if this filter logic makes any sense ?

Regarding the single 8 version of this film. What cartridges to they use for this 50 asa film, the 25 or 200asa notched ones? Will my ZC1000 know this is a 50 asa speed film? What did you guys do, just under expose or use the variable shutter ? What's the difference between wittnerchrome 50D and Cineva. Thanks, getting ready to go with single 8 again....

I have some 16mm and super 8 both just shot at 18 fps (as there was no sound and to save stock). Now that I'm in contact with a couple of transfer places for the TC, they tell me there machines run at 24fps so my films will look sped up when I see them in my editing program that is set to 25fps. Thats normal, but can't they just do the TC at 18 fps? If I were to project it and video tape it ( I wouldn't ) it wold come out at the correct speed on the computer. I don't want to have to deal with slowing down images in post to get the speed correct. What is the best way to transfer material shot at 18 fps ?

have you tested single 8 (25 asa) I find generaly a low asa positive correctly exposed sharper and with less grain. I've only looked at it visually, not done chart tests.

Why do you think the resolution is better from the negative stock? I wold think K40 gives the least grain and sharpest image. You just need to be carful when exposing.

Thank you for that information, I wouldn't want to re transfer anything ever. The thing with suoer 8 is that as soon as it is out of the reel for the first time it picks up a lot of dust, real fast. The first scan needs to be the last, in fact I don't like to even look at the film before the transfer. That is why the first time will be to digibeta or prehaps to hard drive. (I will speak to Stuart Debenham later today about uncompressed 4:2:2 10 bit SDI 270Mb/s to Hard Disk). I will also look into the .aap file. The idea is to have the conforming done to something already scanned. Have you tried editing the 10 bit uncompressed files you got without making a DV version out of it?

Direct to harddrive is something I've been thinking about for a while now. I spoke to a place in Switzerlad that can get my films just after development at the Kodak lab. They scan to Hard drive at a resolution of 800X600 using the codec Huffyuv (not great if you are on a Mac). They are called www.cinetis.ch (or Bolex Digital). The other option I was thinking about was doing the transfer on a Flashscan machine to a DigiBeta with a mini DV copy, edit from the mini DV and then get someone to comform the Digibet at a later stage when it comes time to release the film. Any thoughts on this workflow ?