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Found 5 results

  1. Hi everyone, I recently got back into analog photography and (re-)discovered with interest that some of the motion picture films are used by certain photographers and even home-processed (Kodak Vision 3 series seems appreciated). As a not-complete-beginner in home-processing for stills (mainly B&W to be honest), I see some opportunities for me discover new horizons by doing the same for S8. Apart from the obvious question of appropriate hardware and chemicals (Internet is my friend), I was wondering if some of you guys have experience with home-processing S8 and what is your take on this ? Are the results worth it ? Does it open some new creative opportunities for you ? Do you process your negative color stocks in C-41 or ECN-2 ? ... Also related to processing, I was wondering how does S8 handle pushing / pulling. To be honest I always shot S8 at box speed because of the extra costs involved when pushing/pulling film in most regular labs. Up to now I've always shot daylight and outdoors but I came across situations where the max box speed available in my bag was not enough to get proper exposure (overcast days in the woods for example), maybe pushing the films could have saved the day ... I assume negative stocks are better mediums for pushing/pulling ; do you have experience in pushed/pulled S8 stocks ? What were the outcomes ? Thanks for your insights and experience.
  2. Hi, I've worked mainly 7222 with self processing(D76/Dektol), now I wonder what type of film can be used for print stock. I've read from the list of motion film, Kodak 7202/7203 is used for BW print stock. But when I check from resellers 7202 is colour negative film. So I am bit confused now, is anyone could recommend suitable print stock for projection? What I want to try here exactly is, I want to make positive duplicate from my negative which is possible to project. I guess slower film(lower ISO) would fit for duplication and control the contrast, it seems really hard to find proper one in Europe. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
  3. Hello All! New user here and I'm hoping this great community can help me out. For the past week, I have been desperately trying to find a comprehensive and complete guide to processing Kodak Super 8 Tri-X 7266 at home. I can't seem to find any localized complete source of information on how to do this--while I've been able to find what sort of materials I'd need, the chemistry bit seems really though to understand. There seems to be multiple opinions on what sort of chemistry to use, but no real guide on how to do it or which chemistry works best. Now to be honest, I've never developed reversal film at home before--however, I do have a darkroom, and have been devleoping my own still film (black and white and color) since I was about 13 (I'm 25 now.) I've been shooting Super 8 (and Reg. 8, and some 16 here and there) for a long time now, and I'm to the point where I'm shooting so much of it, I think it might make sense to invest up front in the materials to develop at least Super 8 Tri-X at home. I should also say: I'm not a chemist--I have a degree in English, so I took 1 chemistry class in all of my education--and it was the history of chemicals--so my ability to understand how chemistry works is pretty sad, to be honest--I know how to follow mixing instructions on bottles and packets--that's about it! I'm just interested in processing the film for reversal results--I'm not interested in cross processing or anything 'artistic'--I'd like to just reproduce the results from the lab, if at all possible Can anyone provide a resource that goes over exactly what chemicals to use to process Super 8 Tri-X 7266 (and possibly where to buy them), mixing instructions, and processing times? I would be forever in your debt! Here's my materials list: -Chemistry -Spiral Lomo Tank -Containers for chemistry? -100 or 300 watt bulb -Drying device (Morse Drying Drum (or similar) Thanks to all for your time and help! Owen - Cleveland.
  4. Hello, finally got round to processing some 35mm still tri-x at home using R09 one shot and leaving if for an hour with a little agitation at the beginning and middle. Then stop and rinse. I liked the results but I fear this might be too much for smaller formats. I've got a dusty lomo tank and I was thinking it may be better with Acufine, do I need to use any other chemicals? I want to get as fine results as I can before sending them off for a telecine, also if anybody as any tips on how to store them afterwards so them don't get damaged that would be great. A long time film lover, but I'm very new to processing at home.. Thanks for any help. David
  5. Hello, I'm trying to process Tri-x super 8 in a Morse G3 tank for the first time. Except for a couple frames at the beginning and end of the roll- it's all coming out as negative. What point in the process could I be messing up that's causing this? Does it sound like insufficient re-exposure? Thank you in advance for your advice. I haven't posted on this forum before but I've been reading it for a while and I really appreciate the resource.
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