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Found 6 results

  1. Im new to the forum and have a long question, but I have read a lot of posts here before so I am turning to you all for help! I bought my first super 8 camera, a Canon 310xl a couple of months ago, and in January, I bought two cartridges of Tri-X reversal to shoot with. I am a college student, so I did not have a chance to shoot until last week, so until then I kept the two carts in the fridge to keep cool. So last week, I finally opened my first box of Tri-X and loaded it into my camera. I notched hack the cart so I could control the built in filter as well! I turned the camera on and pulled the trigger, and the film ran for about 30 frames before the film transport indicator in my viewfinder stopped running, indicating that the film was not moving. So i opened my camera and pulled the cartridge out and the film had snapped! The whole cart gone. So I chalked it up to maybe a faulty cart, so I loaded my second one. And you guessed it, the exact same thing happened! Both my catridges with snapped film. So my question: Why did this happen and what can I do to fix it? I don't know enough about yet to be able to figure out whats causing the film to just break. Did the film get brittle from being in my refrigerator too long? Or is something wrong with my camera, is it too fast? Is something wrong with the takeup hooks? I just don't know. I have called Kodak about getting replacements, but scared that the same thing will happen again. If you may know anything about why my film is breaking after 30 frames I would appreciate your help. Im a college student, I can't afford just buying more film if I will never be able to shoot with it. Thanks!
  2. Hello, I have a Canon 310XL, and as I am very new to 8mm filming, I followed the instructions of a video online for this model and loading film into it - I loaded it and filmed, the Ft. gauge on the side of the camera is now at 50ft, and it hasn't stopped filming or clicked now that it's reached 50ft, the engine keeps spinning - I'm wondering if this is normal for this model or not, as when I open the side of the camera, I can see that not 1 or 2 of the "notches" are pressed down from the canister of film, perhaps this roll needed a "notch hack" or the film doesn't need to hit one of the internal meter notches or something similar.... So, my question is: Can I take the canister out and have it developed as soon as it's hit 50ft? Because it seems like neither of the 2 notches were clicked into place, will that affect my film? I filmed in daylight, with no 85 filter applied, and no light meter button raised. It's been on the 50ft mark for awhile and I've kept filming every now and then to see if it'd click or stop running, but it hasn't, would that mean the final frame of the film is still being filmed over? Any help would be great, thanks!
  3. Hello everyone! I will be shooting a small home movie for my family. My sis in law has a newborn coming soon and I i wanted to shoot in black and white. I will be shooting inside the hospital and her room. I was thinking for the extra light that I might need, shooting in Kodak 200t and converting to black and white in FCP. I'm new to this, but i'm thinking the extra speed over 7266 will get me slightly better exposure. I will be using my Canon 310xl. My question is, doing a 200t to B&W conversion, will anything be lost? shadow/high-light detail? I am also getting processed/scanned by the pro labs (not sure if that matters). OR should I just get the Tri-X 7266 and shoot with confidence. I mean, the 310xl has a pretty wide aperture so I can see how it can be used with no issues. Thanks in advance!
  4. I know there are some post on this topic, but they are outdated or they don't present enough information. So here is the story: I have been shooting video cameras for a long time. I've had the desire to shoot film but not the money. Recently I bought a Krasnogorsk K3 which looks in amazing condition to me. It has a 90… serial number, so I suppose it was made in 1990. It has all the accessories, even the box and I'm excited to start shooting with it. I know how cameras work, how to expose, filters, I have a light meter and I know hot to use it and I have shot 35mm stills. So I guess I'm safe in that area. But I need help with some tips about processing the film. I'm going to shoot basic things, I'll try to test my lenses, different apertures, etc. So nothing really important. I have to spools of 100ft and I would like to have them scanned to 2k. I would like to start with those. But looks like many labs have a minimum charge. And it something like $150. I have a super 8 camera. So I could shoot a couple of cartridges just for fun in order to reach the minimum charge. If I shoot negative, can I watch the super 8 film at home with a projector? What do you guys recommend? Please tell me about the process. I'm self-taught, I've done plenty of research on the internet but there is not much info this days. I would like to document my experience of shooting 16mm video, so I can share the info with other people who may have the same questions. So you may help more people than just myself. Thanks in advance.
  5. Attached is a link to an interview where I discuss shooting super16mm and super 8mm film my new short Vengeance de los Muertos, playing as a part of the Fantastic Planet Film Festival April 18th, 2013. Among the shots, I shoot footage from a demolition derby car with a super 8 zip tied to the dash. Check it out, and let me know what you guys think and another
  6. Attached is a link to an interview where I discuss shooting super16mm and super 8mm film my new short Vengeance de los Muertos, playing as a part of the Fantastic Planet Film Festival April 18th, 2013. Among the shots, I shoot footage from a demolition derby car with a super 8 zip tied to the dash. Check it out, and let me know what you guys think and another
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