Ruben Arce

Thanks Robert, That could be the case with this camera. O own other cameras and none of them has battery leaking damage, but this one does. I'm going to send the camera to VP at some point, and I have the electronics from another camera. I hope they can replace the part and bring it back to life so I don't have to sacrifice a camera on good working condition.

Thanks Brian, Reversing the battery sounds like a good trick to avoid getting the battery drained by letting the camera run by accident. There is something wrong with my camera for sure, because none of the switches turn it off.

I recently purchased a very nice CP-16r converted to S16 by Visual Products with video tap and some cool stuff, but it doesn't turn off when I apply power to it. It keeps running and the red light is on all the time. I know it needs to be inspected by a technician and I plan to get the camera serviced, but I would like to hear from other people how the switch located on the hand grip works. I mean it's kind of obvious, I assume you put the main switch on the "Run" position and then the other switch controls the power. I read the manual and it doesn't say anything about that button and I own another camera, but that one doesn't have that button.

The difference of the focal flange ditsance between M42 and the Nikon mount is about 1.04mm so no adapter is going to be that thin and even if that is possible the back of the lens wouldn't fit inside the M42 aperture. Technically it's not impossible to mount Nikon lenses on the K3, it's kind of simple actually. I removed the M42 mount of the K3, 3D printed a ring and I used a Nikon mount on top, obviously taking the right FFD into consideration, but the center of the lens, the element on the back hit the plate of the camera, so I would have to cut around that in order to fit the lens... Too much work and effort for that kind of camera, so I didn't do it, but it is perfectly possible.

I know, I own the same viewfinder that you have on the picture and a couple of the nice and orientable viewfinders for the CP-16r. The CP viewfinders work fine on the NPR, but the Angenieux doesn't work properly on the CP-16r. That's a reality. I used to have a Super Takumar 50mm f1.4 that had a yellow tint. You can put the lens under the sun rays, but you have to wrap it using aluminum foil so it doesn't heat. In my case I used an Ikea desktop lamp that is known to have a lot of UV rays and it did clean it.

I have used viewfinders created for the CP-16r on the NPR and they work fine but not the other way around. How did the Angeniuex work for you? Viewfinders for the Eclair NPR and the CP-16r can be used interchangeably, but they don't fit the Eclair ACL without modification.

It's not difficult making a battery that can supply 18v to 20v you are good between that range, but manufactures in general don't recommend using a power supply not design for that specific camera because they can have high peaks.

Interesting project. I have a couple of images that have some information about the 16mm format specifications, I hope they help in some way. With the the technology we have today people should not be afraid of building stuff like this. They designed and ran this kind of machines back in the 1940s and we cannot replicate that in 2021 with much more technology and knowledge? Good luck with the project, I hope you make it happen.

It's been great. I haven't shoot with it as much as I would like, but I got the camera serviced after the original post. I got the magazines converted to S16 and everything works just fine.

Thanks Aren, A technician told me about the serial number located inside the turret some time ago, but I'm glad you answered the question and included a picture so other people looking for this information can find it in the future.

Yes, QLM is out of business and the man referred me to Spectra as well, so I sent my light meter and my Minolta Color Meter II and they deemed the Minolta unrepairable. They said the cells were not in good condition and they don't have parts. The one that I have was in great looking condition, but it was around 40 years old... So, I guess I'll better get a modern one.

If you don't want to use the reglomatic or the light meter then you don't need the half power. You can just attach the positive and negative poles and ignore the half one.

There is a documentary named "Side by side" it presents interesting information about this topic.

Hey Gabriel, did you get your meter calibrated? I just got a Minolta Color Meter II and the readings are not even close to what I should expect. Actually as you mentioned all the measurements that I took came low.