Ruben Arce

I have seen two versions of the gray Scoopic, one is very old and it doesn't have a focusing mark, but the newer version has it on the film compartment door. The trigger of the old version cannot be locked and it has only 3 screws on the tripod plate screw vs four on the other model. Both of them are gray Scoopics, but there are difference between them.

I just checked one old Scoopic (gray) that I have and I didn't see any difference when I changed the aperture. It's an old camera that I haven't tested, so it may be stuck as well, but I wen't from wide open to f22 and I didn't noticed any change.

Wow! incredible work Uli Meyer. Talk about amazing image quality, cameras, lenses, extremely clean scan, good cinematography, acting and beautifully composed images. I thought the prices going up on film cameras was my imagination, but by looking at your short film I can see why.

I used one of those battery holders to power my Scoopic MS and they work just fine. If you look at the specifications of the original battery it only has 500mah, that's nothing compared to what batteries can do today. I have a couple of options, but I think I'm going to have groups on series and then in parallel. AA rechargeable batteries have around 2,200mah, that's four times the amperage of the original battery. The only problem I saw was charging them, but having those 2 groups mentioned before and considering that DC travels on one direction I can have 2 ports to charge the batteries separate, but when they have to work together they will. I couldn't find a charger to will work with 20 -24v other than drills ones and other tools chargers, but by separating the batteries in 2 groups I can re-charge them with an inexpensive adapter. I haven't receiver my camera yet, but just by looking at the size specifications on the manual of the original battery I see a few options with rechargeable batteries.

Nice Story Gareth, Did you find someone in Australia who can service your camera? I just bought one too. It's just the body, but I have some plans for it. The first project is going to be designing a battery and 3D print it. I have a conversion in mind and then if everything works it will be out to get a CLA. I would like to know about the advances that you make with your camera. keep it up.

Surprising! I was expecting something closer to 52mm, but actually pretty good. It means a lot of lenses can be mounted using adapters. Thanks Jean-Louis

Hello peeps, I've been trying to find this info for a long time, but I couldn't find anything. I already checked all the threads on the CP section, so I have to ask: Does anyone knows what's the focal flange distance of the CP-16r? Thanks

Hello peeps, I've been trying to find this info for a long time, but I couldn't find anything. I already checked all the threads on the CP section, so I have to ask: Does anyone knows what's the focal flange distance of the CP-16r? Thanks

I think it looks great. The paint job may look a bit different but that may be because you are comparing it to an old paint job and time has changed it, but over all I think you are doing a great job. I've been dreaming about doing the same with other cameras, and I'm going to try, I can do the cleaning, paint, leatherette and other things. I think the technology we have these days can help old cameras in so many ways. Batteries are different, 3D printing, lighter electronics and more affordable, nicer tripods and camera stabilizers that can be used with analog cameras even when they didn't designed them thinking about them, In my case I still need to send it to a technician to get the camera LA'd but I guess I can make the job easier for them and I can spend hours doing stuff they wouldn't do. Good job Lucas, keep it up. It's exciting seeing what you are doing.

Very interesting, I'm glad to know several people around the world have similar ideas. following.

Simon and Dom, thanks a lot for all that useful information. Thanks for the details and for using technical terms, it really helped me to understand the concepts. I know the Scoopic is not a professional camera but still it's a decent one to practice and learn and this specific camera looks like new. I don't see any marks on the pressure plate or the gate and in general looks like someone bought it filmed a few rolls and film and never touched it again. I really appreciate the info. So do I Will, last year only I spend over $3,500 on service, modification and conversion of a couple of cameras that don't generate a penny right now. I try to support technicians and Kodak, so we can continua to use the medium for some time. Unfortunately we all are going to retire or die, companies don't like sharing their service manuals and instructions and no company is putting film cameras out anymore. As I mentioned on my original post I do like doing this kind of stuff, but there are no schools where I can go. I would happily work for free for a year as an apprentice if a good technician wanted to tutor me. As a child I disassembled most of my toys so it's part of my nature and even when I would not mess with the transmission, I like changing the oil of my car. I've been working on a series of modifications for the Scoopic M or MS, those modifications make the camera much more versatile and easy to use in several ways and I'm doing that with modern easy to find and inexpensive items, so I wanted this camera to try to expand those accessories and modifications to the gray Scoopic, I never intended to use it, unfortunately it didn't work and I have to do something about it. I cannot talk about those modifications yet since I'm still working on them, but my technician saw them and he was impressed and happy about what I was doing with the Scoopic and with my NPR, I told him get ready because when people see this they are going to ask you to do it for them, so at the end this can bring more work to those technicians and I may work with him or them to make it happen. As I mentioned before I'm not sure a camera technician would spend 5 hours cleaning a camera or painting it, but I could do that, they can do the magic and people who don't care about this stuff can grab a like new camera and shoot film with it.

Dom Jaeger, I really appreciate your input. I know it has been discussed here before, but people seem to avoid mentioning brands or specifics and that was what I wanted, but you are totally right, I know you are knowledgeable about the topic and it just makes sense. You pointed me in the right direction talking about bearings and gears or points of contact or friction. I noticed on some of the gears there is something that looks like graphite, but then again it is old and doesn't look like it's doing it's job. I have learned a lot with this camera, but it really made me think what would've happened if I have sent the camera to a technician. The camera was in extremely bad condition inside and out, of course I cleaned the outside and now I have spend at least 5 hours cleaning the inside and I still have to redo the light seals, keep cleaning and put it back. My point is if a technician charges $400 to CLA a camera would they spend 10 hours cleaning and restoring those things? It doesn't make sense, so probably they would oil it, make sure it runs and sent it back to the costumer, so now I'm thinking I can clean it up, I can carefully re-do the light seals, clean everything else and send it to my technician (If he agrees) to properly lubricate it, collimate the lens, adjust the shutter and the optics and send it back. I know some people don't like continuing the work of someone else, but I already did the labor, and I mean I did it consciously, so now he could do the precision work that the camera needs to perform well and if that's not the case I can lubricate it, put it back and hope for the best. Dom, this camera it's like a K3, it's a "main board" and a shell. So when I disassembled it Didn't really messed with the shutter mechanism, it is still together and connected, so I hope I can make it work later. I did messed with the lens because I had to, as I mentioned on my original post the prism was out of place, so I had to do it, but in theory if I you don't remove the lens out of this "Main board" collimation should be intact since the gate and the lens are attached to this hole thing. It's an interesting camera. Any thoughts on the graphite grease and if any modern good quality grease can replace it would be appreciated.

If the camera you are talking about looked like it came straight out of a chicken coop... This is the one, but you should look at it now, man it was like a new camera. Paint, glass and everything else (but the prism) is in great condition.

I know some people on this forum feel like nobody should touch a camera if he or she is not a technician and at some extent I agree. I have a couple of nice cameras that I love and those cameras have been properly maintained by technicians and I know how expensive it can be and I paid to get it done, but some times there is no technician whiling to work on your camera (Nikon R10) and some insensible people in GA are happy to say send the camera we can fix it, I sent its they said Nikon doesn't sell parts any more... Are you kidding me? You didn't know that? I opened the camera and fixed it myself and I did a clean job not like that guy. In a different case I just got an extremely dirty gray Scoopic, after hours cleaning it it was like new, but no image on the viewfinder. I noticed a rattling noise in the light meter area, I checked for light on the gate and there's none, so that's the prism out of place. I paid $130 for the camera, and just sending it to the east coast is going to cost me that much, not mentioning the $400 + that it's going to cost to get it fixed, but my main point is I have a Scoopic MS and I bought this camera to do some experimentation, I never intended to use it, so my options are selling the camera for parts or trying to fix it myself. I got the service manual, it was kind of scary the amount of things you have to remove to get acmes to the main part, but I did it and when I was there it was so dirty, the light seal foam solidify (very common issue) and there was a messed inside all over the place mixed with dust and there was the prism just out of place. I started cleaning all the mess and I can see how the camera appreciate what I'm doing. Every time I clean something it feels like the camera is going to be better, even if I don't add lubrication I'm eliminating that dust and the friction that it causes, I'm feeling confident that I can put it back and the camera will work again as a U16 camera. Again I know some people think is not a good idea, but I'm very detailed oriented, I know how to use tools, I understand how cameras work, I have time and patience, I can solder, I have made repairs on still photo cameras and I want to do it, because I want to learn. I have searched for schools and I couldn't find one and there are a copule of mediocre camera shops here where I live, so no way to ask someone to tach me. I know it's a long post but I needed to make a point. Now what kind of lubricant shouldI use on gears, plastic, metal, joints? Grease or oil and what kind? Even more important, what are the guidelines to use either one? I know oil must be applied in very small quantities, if you can comment on that I would really appreciate it too and again even better what are the rules, guidelines or principles? Thank You so much in advance and sorry about the long post.