Ruben Arce

Rokinon Xeen lenses have a PL mount, so they would work on a LTR-7 if it has a PL mount. I was talking about lenses like the Rokinon DS with a Nikon or Canon FD mount and an adapter on a camera with an Aaton mount.

No problem Laurie.

You can use lenses with Nikon F mount with that adapter without problems, meaning original Nikkor lenses, Samyang or Rokinon. The focal flange distance shouldn't be a problem, meaning the lenses should work just fine including focusing to infinity if the adapter is at the exact distance from the film plane, which is not going to be the case for sure unless you ask a camera technician to do it for you and you don't remove the adapter. Lenses designed to work with 35mm still photography cameras work fine in my opinion, as other pointed in your other post you are using the best part of the lens, but since you have a lens that projects a bigger image there is always the possibility of getting internal reflections, so it's a good idea to use a lens hood or a matte box. I got great results with a similar camera lens combo, but yes, I have gotten some "gosths" caused by internal reflections.

Yes, it does. It’s bigger and heavier than the most common one, but fully orientable. There is even an extension tube for it. I wish I had that one.

There is an orientable viewfinder for the CP-16R, it actually works with the NPR as well.

I think you should watch this video, you are confused and explaining at that extent would take a long time. There are some other very good videos on YouTube that may give you some more info so you can ask more concrete questions if you still have them.

I'm going to reply to my own post just to leave this information here for people trying to find info about this motor in the future. A gentleman gave me a clue on a facebook group, he told me the Pailard motor for the Bolex speeds up as you apply more power to the motor. I noticed the cable that came with the Steven Camera Drive motor that I have has 4 connectors, which suggested you can add more batteries or power, the connectors are connected in series which means it's adding power, so I tried applying power to the motor and I noticed that it was running slow when I applied 12v and tried to run the camera at 24fps, so I added another 12v battery and I was able to tell just by listening that the camera was running faster than at 24fps. I read on the Bolex Collector website that this motor was capable of delivering 8fps, 16fps, 24fps and 32fps. My conclusion is you need: - 6 v for 8fps - 12v for 16fps - 18v for 24fps - 24v for 32 fps. The motor speeds up and the governor that the Bolex has takes it to a speed closer than the one you chose. This is not a crystal sync motor as you can imagine, but it's a good addition to a Bolex package. The thicker connector on the batteries side is the positive. I tried using modern knowledge to try to deduct which wire was the positive one, but it was actually the other way around. I'm glad I didn't burn the motor and now someone else looking in the future can use this info to make the motor work.

Can you guys provide some information about this motor? I got it with a camera and I couldn't find any information online. It's a Stevens Camera Drive Model 16 made by Stevens Engineering Co. The Bollex Collector website has a pic that I copied and it says the motor can run at 16,24 and 32fps forward and reverse, it's on the metal plaque as well, but there are no swtiches at all. I couldn't find any information on the power requirements. Looks like it could take up to 4 batteries and maybe that's how speed goes up. The cable has 4 connectors in series meaning it adds power as you add batteries, looks like someone scratched the part that says how many volts it need to work at each speed. Thanks

I certainly enjoyed watching this. Wow 35mm film is so beautiful, that even when you shoot a home movie in a cloudy day it looks way better than a lot of stuff that I see people shoot on the newest digital cameras. Not trying to start a debate or anything, digital cameras pay my bills, but wow there is something about film that makes it look special.. And your skills of course.

http://www.webtfg.com/sync10.htm That's his website. You can see more info there. I'll try to test the camera as soon as possible, but I know they have been performing the conversion for a long time, and I see a clean job on the outside.

I own a Scoopic MS in beautiful condition, Bernie with Super 16.inc serviced the camera and converted it to Ultra 16 last year and I George Odell just converted my MS to crystal syn, I literally received the camera a few days ago and I have had a lot of work so I haven't been able to shoot anything, but he made me the favor of fixing something on the camera and converting it to CS. A man of few words, but looks like a clean job, and I hope it works as expected. It's going to cost around $1,500 to do the two conversions, but at the end you have a nice camera, that you know it was serviced and tested and that will allow you to shoot crystal synced stuff. I have developed a few accessories that take the camera to the next level, so it can be a good investment.

Thanks for sharing. What exactly do you want to know? I have a 3D printer the Ender 3 which is a common one and I can tell you that it is too big for my printer, but I could print the center maybe to see how the film runs trough it. Are you supposed to start loading from the center?

ASA is pretty much the same than ISO. The dial has two dots in between the numbers, for example there are two dots between 160 and 360 meaning those are ISO 200 and ISO 250, so there you have the one you were looking for. The main problem is going to be that light meters on Scoopics are old and not accurate, so I recommend testing the internal meter against a hand held reflected meter like a Sekonic or Pentax and a grey card, or a sold color. If the meter in your camera is not accurate but works, you can compensate by using a small number (ISO) like 160 for example, but in order to find the actual condition of the meter you will have to make some tests. If you don't have access to a hand held meter a DSLR and a solid white or gray piece of paper evenly lit can help. You point the cameras to the same spot, meter and compare the results.

Are you sure that's a hair? It looks very straight and at a perfect 45° angle. I have seen several camera that have a markers / needles like that one so you can get some kind of information when you see trough the viewfinder.

Obviously the camera had some work done. The aperture (iris) ring doesn't have the original cover and the leatherette seems sketchy too. You may have a crystal syn converted camera. It is possible to convert the R8 and the R10 to Crystal Sync and I have seen that kind of switches on converted cameras and I know that the modification is possible. Bad news is you may be missing an extra little box that goes with the camera when converted and needed to do the job.