Ruben Arce

Hey Gabriel, did you get your meter calibrated? I just got a Minolta Color Meter II and the readings are not even close to what I should expect. Actually as you mentioned all the measurements that I took came low.

Some technicians modify the magazines some don't. So technically is possible to shoot S16 using any magazine, but according to some technicians they may scratch the film. My NPR was converted by Les Bosher to S16 and PL mount, but he didn't modify the mags and several people had the same with Les. Then I sent my camera to Bernie for a CLA and he recommended modifying the mags and I did it even when the cameras used to work fine. You could load some brand new film on the magazine, run the camera for a few seconds and then inspect the film looking for scratches.

As an actual owner of a couple of Scoopic M & MS converted to U16 by Bernie I think I can comment on the original topic. Bernie did not convert Scoopics to S16, period. As a matter of fact Bernie prefers converting cameras like the Arri SR, Krasnogorsk 3 and Eclair NPR to U16 because it's easier. You don't have to offset the lens, you just widen the gate and there you go. You get a wider image that allows you to extract a 1.85:1 or 1.78:1 image talking advantage of the sides of the frame, getting a wider image which means more actual resolution and more pixels. The Scoopic can't be co

There is a small triangular black plastic piece that keeps the film leveled while the film enters the sprockets area. Make sure you have that one in place. I had a camera that didn't have that piece and it used to do what you describe every time.

It is true that there is not a defined standard being used, but they should not be that far apart. Digital cameras use ISO which is a standard, but then they do all kind of tricky things with their RAW or LOG formats to make their cameras look good or more sensitive than they actually are. Now Kodak uses ISO instead of ASA which is basically the same. There have been two standards used for light meters through history but the results are pretty close. Ansel Adams was a proponent of the 18% gray standard, and manufacturers prefer 13% gray because it delivers brighter images. In "The Negat

No problem. In my experience all M42 lenses have worked great, but I definitely recommend using prime lenses. Zoom lenses from that time period were not what they are today, they are soft, but yes I used several lenses with my K3 and I have never had any issues.

You can use pretty much any M42 lens on the K3 without problems. I don't know where that guy got that info, specially when it's almost impossible to get factory details or service manuals for the K3s. The focal flange distance of the M42 mount is 45.46 mm VS the 45.50 that you are talking about that's a .04mm or 4 hundredths of a millimeter. Technicians consider +-.02 the tolerance for a correctly calibrated mount, so as you can see it doesn't make much sense. Now when technicians set the FFD of a camera mount, meaning the body not the lens they subtract .02 or .03 to the original FFD so the i

Adjusting or calibrating the nozzle to the bed and cleaning the bed with alcohol helps a lot. I use hair spray after cleaning and calibrating the bed and prints stick to the bed really well. I just use the basic hair spray from the dollar store, it works like a charm. Also started getting much better result when I changed the bed heating temperature to 55 instead of 60° and the fan speed to 60% instead of 100% I print stuff at speed of 25-35 and that has helped me me to pretty much eliminate warping. I'm going to be out of town a couple of weeks, but I'll print the small tank soon.

I have the Ender 3 and I have a 0.3mm nozzle mounted on it now. I'm going to use that one to print the spiral, so I can get better detail and minimize scratches on the film. I'll report later, since just the spiral it's going to take 14 hours to print, but I'll give it a try for sure.

Wow! That's a super cool design and you are just sharing it. I don't have a printer that big, but this will make some people happy for sure.

I'm glad to inform I just removed the batteries on the 3 cameras that I own and there was no leaking or damage at all. I guess I'm lucky. Thanks for sharing those pictures, more cameras can be saved now that people know how they look like.

Looks great. It's not easy to print with a .2mm tip, but looks like that's what helped you to get that great quality. I'm going to give it a try with my Ender 3, It won't fit, but I'd be happy processing 10 or 20 feet of B&W once in a while. Thanks for sharing Sam.

Thanks a lot for the pictures guys. My cameras work so, I hope I can remove the batteries and save them. It would've been difficult to find those batteries without knowing exactly how they look, so thanks again.

Could you guys share a pic pointing where the battery that leaks is located in the CP-16r? I have more than one camera and they work just fine, but I'd like to make sure the battery is not leaking and I may remove it to avoid damage.

Rokinon Xeen lenses have a PL mount, so they would work on a LTR-7 if it has a PL mount. I was talking about lenses like the Rokinon DS with a Nikon or Canon FD mount and an adapter on a camera with an Aaton mount.