danny bartle Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 Hello, I'm currently editing a small DVD production in which all the footage has been shot on a Sony PDX10P. I'm trying to get that "Progressive" or "Film Look" (whatever you want to call it) What is the best way to achieve this? (besides the obvious of using a progressive camera) Is it as simple as de-interlacing the footage in Premiere? Are there other programs which can do this better? Thanks to all who reply... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Phil Rhodes Posted June 7, 2004 Premium Member Share Posted June 7, 2004 Hi, >I'm trying to get that "Progressive" or "Film Look" (whatever you want to call it) Well, it'd call it "progressive" or "film look" as appropriate, considering you're talking about two only slightly related things. You can get to progressive scan through any number of means, the preferred being a smart deinterlacer which detects interlaced areas of the frame and applies line interpolation only to them, meaning you don't lose resolution on other areas of the frame. This is really all you need to do to emulate film motion rendering in PAL, although there are other caveats and it's an altogether tricker issue in NTSC. "Film look" is a much-overused term; I tend to prefer just to grade something until it looks right for the production rather than sweating trying to make it something it isn't. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Rich Steel Posted June 7, 2004 Premium Member Share Posted June 7, 2004 I'd recommend using some software like Magic Bullet. It de-interlaces (merges the fields) to give the progressive feel to the image. It's not cheap though, expect to pay around £900 (GBP) for the software and dongle. It not only does the de-interlacing really well but has some really nice film type filters. Crushing contrasts, saturations, bleach bypass type effects etc.... Like anything in this game, you get what you pay for. Oh! and expect some horrendous render times when you do apply the effects. I recommend "War & Peace" as a good read to pass the time whilst rendering. Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Phil Rhodes Posted June 7, 2004 Premium Member Share Posted June 7, 2004 Hi, I'm not impressed with Magic Bullet. The entire softness and grain section is effectively worthless (hey, we want it to look like GOOD film, eh?) and everything else can be done with a combination of much cheaper tools. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danny bartle Posted June 8, 2004 Author Share Posted June 8, 2004 Thanks for the replies... How does the de-interlacer in Adobe Premiere 6.5 rate? Phil, you mentioned you can do this with cheaper tools, any advice as to which ones work good? (and are cheap!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Phil Rhodes Posted June 8, 2004 Premium Member Share Posted June 8, 2004 Hi, > How does the de-interlacer in Adobe Premiere 6.5 rate? Rotten. > advice as to which ones work good? Levels filter in NLE of your choice. Anything with a curves adjustment (which is really all Magic Bullet gives you.) Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danny bartle Posted June 8, 2004 Author Share Posted June 8, 2004 Hi Phil, Sorry I dont know know exactly what your talking about. Could you give any advice what level filters to do/adjust? I assume this can be done in Prem 6.5? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Phil Rhodes Posted June 8, 2004 Premium Member Share Posted June 8, 2004 Hi, Stick the "Levels" filter on your clip in Premiere. Drag the bottom slider up until the preview starts to look contrasty, then drag the middle one back down to roughly where it was to begin with. Watch the shadow noise spring up to an annoying degree, but that's the vague basis of what Magic Bullet does. Use the similar controls for each of the RGB channels (in the dropdown menu) to control colour grading. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danny bartle Posted June 8, 2004 Author Share Posted June 8, 2004 ok thanks Phil.. I'll try it out & see how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KoNP Posted November 20, 2004 Share Posted November 20, 2004 Hello,I'm currently editing a small DVD production in which all the footage has been shot on a Sony PDX10P. I'm trying to get that "Progressive" or "Film Look" (whatever you want to call it) What is the best way to achieve this? (besides the obvious of using a progressive camera) Is it as simple as de-interlacing the footage in Premiere? Are there other programs which can do this better? Thanks to all who reply... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Hi, I'm kinda new to the site but I know some about video editing. A really decent way to deinterlace your footage and to get it looking good to burn to DVD or whatever is as follows: Transcode your footage to AVI using a codec known as HUFFyuv, a lossless MPEG-4 codec (you'll wind up with massive files though, so you better have the space :P ) and uncompressed audio. Then, get ahold of something called AVISynth, and a filter for it called Decomb. Use that to deinterlace your footage, it works really well even on source that hasn't got decent interlacing. Take the script that you wrote to do that, put it in a program called VirtualDub, and make another HUFFyuv AVI out of that. Remember, it's lossless so you don't have to worry about it hurting your footage. Then, take that AVI (it still should have the audio attached to it; uncompressed, so theres no quality issues there either) and make a DVD-Quality MPEG-2 file out of it with a compression utility called "TMPEGenc". Burn that to DVD and you're set to go. Hope that helped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keagan Schopfer Posted November 20, 2004 Share Posted November 20, 2004 While we're on the topic (If we are...) Is is possible to convert footage shot at 30p to 24p in FCP? I'm thinking specifically of the Cannon XL1, which to my understanding cannot shoot int 24p, only 30p. Would it be better to shoot at 60i and then convert to 24p in Final Cut? I hope I used the terminology correctly! Thanks, Keagan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Phil Rhodes Posted November 20, 2004 Premium Member Share Posted November 20, 2004 Hi, > HUFFyuv, a lossless MPEG-4 HuffYUV uses Huffman compression, on which I have posted extensively in the past, and which is lossless. It is not possible for truncated discrete cosine transforms, as used by MPEG-4, to recover exactly the original data. In any case, there's no point in transcoding to HFYU before you do the deinterlace - either AVIsynth or, more simply, VirtualDub can take your DVSD AVI originals, do the delace, and output uncompressed. There's also a good smart deinterlacer for VirtualDub which you should investigate. I'm also becoming slightly concerned about luminance linearity in HuffYUV. Premiere 6.5 seems to decode HFUY AVIs with a much higher black level than it should - it doesn't cut at all. If you want to shoot on an NTSC XL1 for 24p results, you should probably shoot 60i then do an inverse telecine on it (even though it's not 3:2 pulldown to begin with) and deinterlace the result. I've never tried this, I've no idea what it would look like. You'd need a very smooth deinterlacer to avoid lingering comb artifacts making things look hideous when you put it back to 60i using 3:2 pulldown. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alvin Pingol Posted November 20, 2004 Share Posted November 20, 2004 you should probably shoot 60i then do an inverse telecine on it (even though it's not 3:2 pulldown to begin with) and deinterlace the result. I've never tried this, I've no idea what it would look like.<{POST_SNAPBACK}> Bad. I've tried this and, while it is certainly the easiest and perhaps most logical, the resultant 24P file will look jerky in itself, for the frames do not accurately represent the certain point in time in which the video frame should represent (since the frames are being pulled from a source where the intervals are in 1/60th sec). And to top it off, running pulldown over this to be able to view on NTSC display makes it look even worse. The only things that I have found acceptable are (a) frame blending, and (b) motion interpolation. Note, however, that the latter only works on certain material. >>I'm also becoming slightly concerned about luminance linearity in HuffYUV. >>Premiere 6.5 seems to decode HFUY AVIs with a much higher black level than >>it should Have you tried all of the different compression methods? I don't seem to remember having the problem you describe, although it has been quite a while since I've used HuffYUV (I only use it for sequences requiring several passes through different image manipulation software, and degeneration cannot be thrown into the mix). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Phil Rhodes Posted November 21, 2004 Premium Member Share Posted November 21, 2004 Hi, I didn't fiddle too much with HuffYUV - 30Mb/sec just to go pure uncompressed isn't enough to worry me overly. Perhaps if I get a very big production which I need to store uncompressed, it will be! Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Black Posted November 22, 2004 Share Posted November 22, 2004 Final Cut Pro can de-interlace. It's not too bad. I've only used it a few times on clips I thought were hopeless. But they were good enough for client after I used the filter. But if I had the choice... (which I will in a couple of weeks once I purchase it) Is this man. Graem Natress. http://www.nattress.com/ For $100.00 you get the ultimate affordable standards conversion software. I saw some tests done with this stuff for motion pictures... and I must say that I was VERY impressed. Only downside from everyone I know who's used it... RENDER TIME CHUGS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now