Steve Larsen Posted August 14, 2006 Share Posted August 14, 2006 Hi everyone, I recently purchased a Konvas 2m / 35mm camera from russia and have it set up with a Tobin time lapse motor. I am looking for advise on how to expose a time lapse shot that starts an hour before the sun goes down to an hour after the sun has gone down with the sun in the picture. I am shooting at a 10 sec interval, trying to get 30 sec @ 24fps. If your interested in the Konvas camera I have pictures of mine online @ www.konvas.info Steve Larsen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Stephen Williams Posted August 15, 2006 Premium Member Share Posted August 15, 2006 Hi everyone, I recently purchased a Konvas 2m / 35mm camera from russia and have it set up with a Tobin time lapse motor. I am looking for advise on how to expose a time lapse shot that starts an hour before the sun goes down to an hour after the sun has gone down with the sun in the picture. I am shooting at a 10 sec interval, trying to get 30 sec @ 24fps. If your interested in the Konvas camera I have pictures of mine online @ www.konvas.info Steve Larsen Hi, My usual starting point for time lapse is 50 asa /6 seconds exposure/ND 3.0 (10 stops) T5.6, giving 1 stop over exposure to the sunny F16 Rule. You may want to open another stop as you are starting 1 hour before sunset. Stephen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Larsen Posted August 16, 2006 Author Share Posted August 16, 2006 Hi, My usual starting point for time lapse is 50 asa /6 seconds exposure/ND 3.0 (10 stops) T5.6, giving 1 stop over exposure to the sunny F16 Rule. You may want to open another stop as you are starting 1 hour before sunset. Stephen Hi Stephen and thanks for the advise. I am wondering the reason you expose for 6 sec ? ( I thought my Min expousre of a 1/2 sec might be a problem, I guess not... ) Do you ever pull the stop and/or pull ND as the suns going down ? Thanks in advance, Steve Larsen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Venhaus Posted August 16, 2006 Share Posted August 16, 2006 You might try shooting some test rolls with a still camera, bracketing the exposures, of course and writing down all the info. while doing that, then figuring out the correct exposure(s) for the time lapse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Stephen Williams Posted August 16, 2006 Premium Member Share Posted August 16, 2006 Hi Stephen and thanks for the advise. I am wondering the reason you expose for 6 sec ? ( I thought my Min expousre of a 1/2 sec might be a problem, I guess not... ) Do you ever pull the stop and/or pull ND as the suns going down ? Thanks in advance, Steve Larsen Hi, I was assuming you would use a constant speed motor so 6 sec open 6 sec closed, you were talking about a shot every 10 seconds, the maths works better for 12! You want the trees etc to be blured as they move in the wind so a long exposure is good. With an animation motor offset the shutter by 180 degrees, then the camera stops open. The 1/2 sec 'exposure' is just the film advance, and any delay is the exposure. I don't pull the ND as the sun goes, but time to play in telecine is useful. I do know people who change the T stops with motion control when shooting 24 hour day & night timelapse. Stephen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Larsen Posted August 16, 2006 Author Share Posted August 16, 2006 You might try shooting some test rolls with a still camera, bracketing the exposures, of course and writing down all the info. while doing that, then figuring out the correct exposure(s) for the time lapse. Hi David, I have shot some test rolls on my K3 and I have kept very good records of what I took the exposure from (ie: a spot reading and/or an incident reading) and tracked those readings on a graph Taking an exposure reading every 10 min's. When I started shooting with the Konvas I made myself a template table/details page to fill in as I shoot a Time-lapse shot. I have posted it online it might be usefull to someone else: http://www.vancouvergrip.com/The%20Larsen%...pse%20Table.htm http://www.vancouvergrip.com/shotreport.htm Steve Larsen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Larsen Posted August 16, 2006 Author Share Posted August 16, 2006 Hi, I was assuming you would use a constant speed motor so 6 sec open 6 sec closed, you were talking about a shot every 10 seconds, the maths works better for 12! You want the trees etc to be blured as they move in the wind so a long exposure is good. With an animation motor offset the shutter by 180 degrees, then the camera stops open. The 1/2 sec 'exposure' is just the film advance, and any delay is the exposure. I don't pull the ND as the sun goes, but time to play in telecine is useful. I do know people who change the T stops with motion control when shooting 24 hour day & night timelapse. Stephen Hi Stephen, and thanks again. I have a Tobin time-lapse motor for a Bolex adapted to my Konvas 2m. It has 2 modes; regular @ .75 fps exposure at any interval and long exposure (your interval - 1 sec (2 sec-100hr) ) The way I've calculated my shutter speed is: Tobin specs for regular speed = .75 fps = 1.3 spf x Konvas 2m shutter = 150 deg. = 150/360 = .416 1.3 x .416 = .541 sec = 1/2 s. I think I am starting to get my exposure close now, but there is a huge difference in stops between 10 min before sunset and 10 min's after. I have asked quite a few DP's I work with how to expose/shoot a sunset and I don't seem to get the same answer twice. One of my best tests on the K3 I pulled 2 stops as the sun went down (approx 10-15min) watching with the spot meter to make sure I was pulling the stop slower than exposure's drop, so even though I'm opening the stop the picture is still getting darker. I have another 6 sunsets in the can now (on 35mm) and a few of them I've pulled 4 stops. They should be in the lab soon. I created this table to calculate shooting time at various intervals and footage for play back at 24fps: http://www.vancouvergrip.com/footage%20Calculator.htm Steve Larsen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Stephen Williams Posted August 16, 2006 Premium Member Share Posted August 16, 2006 Hi Stephen, and thanks again. I have a Tobin time-lapse motor for a Bolex adapted to my Konvas 2m. It has 2 modes; regular @ .75 fps exposure at any interval and long exposure (your interval - 1 sec (2 sec-100hr) ) Hi, The only time I tried to pull the stop by hand I screwed up the shot! I am interested in seeing your results. Stephen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Larsen Posted August 17, 2006 Author Share Posted August 17, 2006 Hi, The only time I tried to pull the stop by hand I screwed up the shot! I am interested in seeing your results. Stephen Hi Stephen, here's a link to download the test I did with the K3, I looked over my notes and I pulled the stop from f11-3.5 with a pola filter / 1/30 s. / 50asa as the sun was going down. I had to give up doing time-lapse with the K3 because of the fogging problems and some strobe effect i was getting... Steve. http://www.konvas.info/v/steve_larsen/expo...test_a.mov.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Larsen Posted September 7, 2006 Author Share Posted September 7, 2006 Hi, The only time I tried to pull the stop by hand I screwed up the shot! I am interested in seeing your results. Stephen Hi again Stephen and anyone else intereted. I just got my first Time-lapse footage transferred to HD, all shot with the Konvas 2m & Russian glass. For the most part I am very happy with the results, no fogging on a 10 sec interval with the sun in the shot. I pulled 4 stop manually on every sunset shot, trying to open slower than it's getting darker. I'm posting my results as we speak on http://www.konvas.info in my album. Steve Larsen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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