Tom Doolittle Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 I recently picked up a virtually mint Beaulieu S2008, mostly just to see what all the fuss was about over these cameras. Turns out to be a really well-engineered little camera, except of course for that goofy battery compartment. After researching what others had done, I opted for the pin-jack-in-the-body-cap method of delivering power from an external pack. Problem is, when I tried to solder wires to the three little tabs, I could not get a good solder connection. I kept trying but the solder just refused to bond to the tabs. Anyway, I decided I would prefer to connect the wires directly to the circuit board. I know how to open the left side of the camera (controls side), but I need to access the other side. I suppose this involves dropping the entire mechanism from the case. Can somebody walk me through this process? Appreciate your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Alessandro Machi Posted November 30, 2006 Premium Member Share Posted November 30, 2006 I recently picked up a virtually mint Beaulieu S2008, mostly just to see what all the fuss was about over these cameras. Turns out to be a really well-engineered little camera, except of course for that goofy battery compartment. After researching what others had done, I opted for the pin-jack-in-the-body-cap method of delivering power from an external pack. Problem is, when I tried to solder wires to the three little tabs, I could not get a good solder connection. I kept trying but the solder just refused to bond to the tabs. Anyway, I decided I would prefer to connect the wires directly to the circuit board. I know how to open the left side of the camera (controls side), but I need to access the other side. I suppose this involves dropping the entire mechanism from the case. Can somebody walk me through this process? Appreciate your help! I wouldn't wire directly to the board because then you'll need to design a strain relief set-up to keep all the tension away from the board. If the metal tabs portrude inside the battery compartment can't you get those crimp on connectors from the hardware store instead of soldiering? Are you aware that not all the wiring requires the same voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Doolittle Posted November 30, 2006 Author Share Posted November 30, 2006 I wouldn't wire directly to the board because then you'll need to design a strain relief set-up to keep all the tension away from the board. If the metal tabs portrude inside the battery compartment can't you get those crimp on connectors from the hardware store instead of soldiering? Are you aware that not all the wiring requires the same voltage. I tried a variety of connectors. All were either too loose or too large. As for strain relief, I intend to run the wires back into the old battery compartment where they will connect to a 4 pin jack. There will be no tension on the wires. And yes, I am aware of the voltage differences. Just need to know what screws to take out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Glenn Brady Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 (edited) A more elegant solution is the dummy socket made by Beaulieu for this camera. They're still available new from Jesse Chambless (http://www.chamblesscineequip.com/catalog/catalog.htm), albeit at a price, but you might be able to pick up one secondhand. There was an eBay seller recently offering such sockets with the press-on connectors, although I'm unable to find such a listing now. Edited November 30, 2006 by Glenn Brady Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Doolittle Posted November 30, 2006 Author Share Posted November 30, 2006 A more elegant solution is the dummy socket made by Beaulieu for this camera. They're still available new from Jesse Chambless (http://www.chamblesscineequip.com/catalog/catalog.htm), albeit at a price, but you might be able to pick up one secondhand. There was an eBay seller recently offering such sockets with the press-on connectors, although I'm unable to find such a listing now. I didn't want to go into it, but now I ought to mention that after f*$@!ing around with the soldering iron and various crimps on those tabs they are in pretty sad shape (no longer serviceable). My ONLY choice now is to go in from the other side. So please, forget the alternatives. How do I get into the other side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Alessandro Machi Posted December 1, 2006 Premium Member Share Posted December 1, 2006 A more elegant solution is the dummy socket made by Beaulieu for this camera. They're still available new from Jesse Chambless (http://www.chamblesscineequip.com/catalog/catalog.htm), albeit at a price, but you might be able to pick up one secondhand. There was an eBay seller recently offering such sockets with the press-on connectors, although I'm unable to find such a listing now. I tried a variety of connectors. All were either too loose or too large. As for strain relief, I intend to run the wires back into the old battery compartment where they will connect to a 4 pin jack. There will be no tension on the wires. And yes, I am aware of the voltage differences. Just need to know what screws to take out. The idea of a dummy socket and the conversion to four pin are both great ideas. Four pin power is the industry standard. I purchased adapters for my Anton Bauer batteries that convert the Anton Bauer to a four pin adpater. The battery only weighs 1.9 pounds but I can power my mimi HMI light for I think at least one hour, maybe an hour and half. It maybe too late to solve your specific camera problem but converting the dummy socket to a four pin might be a useful product to offer for sale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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