Fomapan R100 - what am i doing wrong?

[Charles MacDonald]

I decided to process an old short end of Kodak Ektachrome 100D just as one last try. I re-used all my old chems apart from the bleach which i made double strength and it worked.

You were processing this is Black and white chemicals? or you were tying to do your Foma pan in E6?

 

The ektachorome nay come out ok in B&W chems.

 

The foma pan would come out totaly blank in e-6.

[Guest mark_baldry]

You were processing this is Black and white chemicals? or you were tying to do your Foma pan in E6?

 

The ektachorome nay come out ok in B&W chems.

 

The foma pan would come out totaly blank in e-6.

 

it was an old off cut of ektachrome 100d that i'd never bothered to have processed so i thought i would try it in the foma chems as it didn't matter if it went wrong - which it didn't.

[max sacker]

I've got the exact same problem! I've modified my developer times from slow to fast, from under to over 12 minutes.

 

I have also been using a morse g3 tank and the fomapan kit chemistry. The result is always the same, brown images,

 

sometimes partially negative, and partially reversal. What's really strange is that recently I got a roll where the

 

negative gradually became a positive, one single frame was perfect: (black and white- not sepia, and reversal) and

 

then it slipped back into a negative.

 

I've taken this film to the labs here and they are stumped. My latest theory is that it's something to do with

 

re-exposure or the second developer or the fixer.

 

I doubt buying a russian tank will solve the problem. It seems to be a chemical issue.

 

I am going to try to use a reversal bath from now on. But first, can anyone answer me these questions?

 

1.) How fast should I be rotating the tank? I've been told one pass per minute, which means turning it VERY fast, (About 3 rotations a second)

 

and I've also been told 1 rotation every 3 seconds. Or I mixed up the information.

 

 

2.) How should I do the re-exposure? Until now I have placed the spools on two nails driven into a white board, and blasted a 100w bulb directly

above the film toward the emulsion side, and shone flashlight through the other side. Some people have told me you should actually take

the film out into daylight.

 

3.) Why doesn't the fixer turn the burnt out leaders clear? Surely the beginning of the film has been fully exposed and should turn clear when fixed?

 

 

4.) Can I apply the fixer before the second redeveloper and get a negative?

 

Would appreciate any answers about this as I am desperately trying to process fomapan at home.

 

Thanks!

 

Max

[Jim Carlile]

On the Morse tank, you're sure you have it loaded onto the takeup reel with the emulsion out?

[max sacker]

I recently solved this problem by radically altering the times, and turning the film very fast at approximately 3 rotations a second.

 

I made up a litre of solution and added all 8 packets of the B2 bleach, doubling the potency.

 

My times were:

 

Developer A: 12 min/~20ºC

Wash: 20 min /~20ºC

Bleach B: 12 min /~20ºC

Wash: 5 min /~20ºC

Clearbath C: 7 min/~20ºC

Wash: 10 min/~20ºC

 

Re-exposure:

 

I took the film off the reel and coiled it on around old drying rack and shone a 100 watt bulb from about half a metre away.

I turned the drying rack (see picture) around to ensure even re-exposure, but left the light blasting on there for well over 2 minutes.

 

Redeveloper (A): Stupidly I poured away the first developer ( I know you should never do this) so I could only mix the correct

solution for 600ml with what I had left, which was too shallow for my tank, so I mixed for 800ml with a weaker potency and

developed for longer (10 min/~20ºC)

 

Wash: 10 min/~20ºC

Fixer: 8 min/~20ºC

 

 

After a quick wash I opened the tank to check out the film. A perfectly exposed reversal image! This was a welcome sight after all that brown

nothingness or half reversal half negative images. I was chuffed!

 

However, I noticed when touching the film that the emulsion rubbed off, especially on the perforation

edges. I attributed this to not enough fixer and fixed with a higher concentration (500ml fixer + 500ml water)

for about 10 minutes. I then washed thoroughly for a good 20 minutes, even placing the under a showerhead

of extreme water flow.

 

Even after all that the emulsion rubs off when in contact with water. I dried the film, and when touching it dry it won't rub off, but if I wet

my fingers and run them over the image it rubs off still. Any ideas what went wrong here?

 

Hope this helps!

[Richardson Leao]

maybe use a fix with hardner (or add 4mls of formaline to 1 litre of fixer)?

 

i had that also with foma DS8 but after it dries it's quite resistant.

 

 

I recently solved this problem by radically altering the times, and turning the film very fast at approximately 3 rotations a second.

 

I made up a litre of solution and added all 8 packets of the B2 bleach, doubling the potency.

 

My times were:

 

Developer A: 12 min/~20ºC

Wash: 20 min /~20ºC

Bleach B: 12 min /~20ºC

Wash: 5 min /~20ºC

Clearbath C: 7 min/~20ºC

Wash: 10 min/~20ºC

 

Re-exposure:

 

I took the film off the reel and coiled it on around old drying rack and shone a 100 watt bulb from about half a metre away.

I turned the drying rack (see picture) around to ensure even re-exposure, but left the light blasting on there for well over 2 minutes.

 

Redeveloper (A): Stupidly I poured away the first developer ( I know you should never do this) so I could only mix the correct

solution for 600ml with what I had left, which was too shallow for my tank, so I mixed for 800ml with a weaker potency and

developed for longer (10 min/~20ºC)

 

Wash: 10 min/~20ºC

Fixer: 8 min/~20ºC

 

 

After a quick wash I opened the tank to check out the film. A perfectly exposed reversal image! This was a welcome sight after all that brown

nothingness or half reversal half negative images. I was chuffed!

 

However, I noticed when touching the film that the emulsion rubbed off, especially on the perforation

edges. I attributed this to not enough fixer and fixed with a higher concentration (500ml fixer + 500ml water)

for about 10 minutes. I then washed thoroughly for a good 20 minutes, even placing the under a showerhead

of extreme water flow.

 

Even after all that the emulsion rubs off when in contact with water. I dried the film, and when touching it dry it won't rub off, but if I wet

my fingers and run them over the image it rubs off still. Any ideas what went wrong here?

 

Hope this helps!

[Jizhong Zhang]

I have develop with morse G3 10 roll 100ft but it is difficult to day There is some water stains so It`s not very clean and the film also very smooth so when I transform to video the image is shake

 

is there any better dry method or dryer

I know morse have a model 3m dryer but I never seen it

and can I get a processor?

Kodak Versamat 5N B/W film processor or a Cramer processor?