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Charles MacDonald

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About Charles MacDonald

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    Stittsville Ontario Canada
  • Specialties
    Real Photography. - I am an old A/V Geek at heart

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  1. And the folks that do that sort of specialized work often will do one batch of each type of film a year, or so - plan on being very patient.
  2. funny you should metion that: This article was in my news feed today... https://www.macfilos.com/2020/09/11/swiss-roll-hidden-for-70-years-these-photographs-were-recovered-from-an-ancient-leica-film-cassette/ now about your can of film, is it colour or Black and white? and if colour would it be acceptable if the image was recovered in Black and white? If colour is their money available. the WWII agfa colour formuals were made public as war reparations and with enough money one could duplicate them. the length of the film also counts,up to 100ft, (30Metrs) something like a LOMO
  3. yes, try to snap Poly film, and you will likely hurt your hand instead. Polyester base Microfilm is rated to last 500 years or more. Polyester is resistant to most chemicals. and can take a lot of heat before it melts. you can play with the emulsion chemically, although it is a similar gelatin coating to that found on acetate base film. One person who used to be associated with Ilford noted that they had a jam on their coating machine while coating some Polyester film, and the machine had to have Bent and Broken Steel Parts replaced.
  4. and the x302 is now only on a poly base 2302/3302 depending on the size. Unless you can find someone to sell you some spooled down, both the Kodak and Orwo stock come as 2 rolls of 2000ft in a 35mm can.
  5. oh and the stuff focus, generally means the lubrication has broken down. someone who knows the tricks has to dismantle the focus and clean out the old lube and put in fresh lubricant, and then reassemble and set the focus..
  6. Ektar was the name Kodak gave to their top of the line Pro grade lenses. the tint is some old lenses is often due to Thorium in the glass. if minor it gives a slight Yellow (usualy) tint to the lens. sometimes treating the lens (carefully) with UV light can remove the tint.
  7. One possible point of confusion is that when the dye transfer process was discontinued, Technicolor switched to making prints on regular Kodak print stocks (or possibly fuji or AGFA stock ) But the credits would still say "Color by Technicolor". The producer may in fact have used one lab for the camera negative and another lab for the prints - "Color by Technicolor, Prints by DeLuxe" And if the movie was so popular that extra prints were needed, yet another lab might have done the work, possibly without the credits being changed.
  8. stick on an 85 filter and you are good to go. small exposure penalty. if you have to shoot daylight film under tungsten, the needed filter has a several stop penalty I believe that the manufacturers could get better grain results by making the film tungsten balanced.
  9. there is the series of Harrison Film Changing Tents - you can find them at places like B&H photo. Biggest one is 48 inches by 28, and 19 high, but will fold away. NOT Cheep. the minilab ones may not collapse easily for storage, but would have solid sides which would be more rugged.
  10. Foma r-100 is a B&W reversal stock. made by foma.cz only other currently made Movie stocks are the Filmotec- ORWO B&W films UN54, and N74. filmotec.de
  11. Split reel to start is "safer" as far as avoiding a spill. but it can be done without. core adaptor is one way. I also sometimes use 35mm film from 100ft bulk still rolls and so I have saved a 1in 35mm core (square center hole, and 1 inch in diameter) which is what 35mm still film 100ft rolls often comes on. a movie core with a 1 inch hole will freely spin on that. the very first time I had to repool movie film I used that mounted on a piece of formica countertop to hold the supply roll. Not sure how much I risked static. A split reel is so much easier to use, if you can get one - m
  12. shooting tungsten film in daylight uses up a lot of your latitude in the BLUE area of the spectrum. you may be able to correct, but you might not be able to. Stick on an 85 and all three layers are used in their intended range.
  13. your Fuji is at least a couple of years old, so you should expect some loss of speed and colour shift.
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