Miguel Bunster Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 Hi I am shooting soon a film here in Chile on 7218 and 90% is exterior work which I plan to ligh through bounce and grip things but there are some interior day scenes (most sunrise scenes) which I want hard sunlight coming in and I plan to mix cold dayllight (from skylight) with warm sun rays coming in. I was planing to have HMI (6k Pats) but here in CHile they are expensive as hell and each light comes with an operator! so budget wise I drop them and rented 10k or 5k tungsten lights which i plan to use uncorrected for the warm sun light. I have done this some time ago but wanted to know peoples experience of doing this on location. Interior sunrise scenes where skylight will be cold uncorrected and tungsten units will be warm (in some camera will have 85 other no). I should be fine woith 10 K corrected 1.4CTB to get a couple stops over exposure. ANy ideas or experince in this would be great. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member David Mullen ASC Posted March 30, 2007 Premium Member Share Posted March 30, 2007 That should work fine (10K with 1/4 CTB) as long as it is not a huge window. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Bunster Posted March 30, 2007 Author Share Posted March 30, 2007 David, thanks for your replay (as always). There are 3 windows and each is 2.5ft*6ft and each window would take a 10k. I think I should be fine but trying to get the 10k because production may want to pay for 5ks. I am testing the exteriors on 7218 this upcoming days and i have shot 16mm on 79 before whici I like a lot and felt it handled exterior really well with its grain and all. What would be your experience/opnion on 18 on exteriors and magic hour. I feel good about it but would lov eto hear your opinion on this. Thanks! Miguel ps:and well I am using 1/4-1/2 clasic soft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member David Mullen ASC Posted March 30, 2007 Premium Member Share Posted March 30, 2007 If you liked 7279, you'll like 7218 even better for low-light stuff. If you are simulating sunlight, it's better to get the 10K's and back up the light from the window rather than use a 5K and have to move it in closer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Bunster Posted March 31, 2007 Author Share Posted March 31, 2007 Thanks david for your replay. Thats what I thought and as well I may get some maxi Brutes which I will use as well. I will post some images when done. Best of all and thanks! M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Michael Nash Posted March 31, 2007 Premium Member Share Posted March 31, 2007 Maxibrutes are good for simulating ambient daylight (especially through a frame of diffusion), but not a hard shaft of direct sunlight. You can still use them of course, but you won't get a hard, crisp shadow like sunlight beacuse the unit uses multiple globes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Bunster Posted March 31, 2007 Author Share Posted March 31, 2007 Hi, yes you are right. That was my idea combinie both units but use the 10ks for hard sun rays and the maxi brutes in a similar angle through diffusion as well I can correct this ones half ctb or 3/4 and have a directional day skylight (or use 5000K bulbs). But now need to check the generator capacity. Thanks for the support! M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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