Tri-X and film shot without light meter batteries

[JohnBellville]

I have two questions:

 

1) Which chemicals will I need to purchase for a b+w reversal process of tri-x (fixer, bleach, chemistry)? The local camera store only sells chemicals for 35mm still photography b+w reversal.

 

 

2) I shot two rolls of tri x with my Braun Nizo, but forgot to put batteries in the light meter slot (so there was absolutely no regulation of light intake). Will I be able to salvage images from either rolls if I pull the film drastically, and, if so, how much should I pull it and when?

 

Thanks alot!

[Charles MacDonald]

1) Which chemicals will I need to purchase for a b+w reversal process of tri-x (fixer, bleach, chemistry)? The local camera store only sells chemicals for 35mm still photography b+w reversal.

 

if you poke arround on the Kodak Motion site you will find the procesing manuals for Kadak B&W reversal. you can mix the formauls from basic chemicals.

 

2) I shot two rolls of tri x with my Braun Nizo, but forgot to put batteries in the light meter slot (so there was absolutely no regulation of light intake). Will I be able to salvage images from either rolls if I pull the film drastically, and, if so, how much should I pull it and when?

 

Look and see what you camera would try to expose at under those conditions, and compair with the "right expsure" if you are close you will be Ok, of you are more than 4 stops out you probaly have an exppensive mistake under your belt.

[Richardson Leao]

kodak reversal films are very rewarding, so it's likely you will get something. get a small piece and do tests, 5' 1st dev and fix and look how dense the neg is (or bleach and see how much milky white you can see - or red bits if you don't clear it)

 

Also, hidroquinone based developers (i like d19) will all work w/ trix (and remember that it's a fast film and my s8 keeps the diaphragm opened if there's no battery so maybe pushing is not what u need to do.