Camera Test

[Nate Yolles]

I'm going to prep my camera for the first time. This will be the first time I'm exposing film with the camera rather than using dummy loads so I want to check it thoroughly. I'll be at a camera house so I will be under controlled conditions. The camera is a Cameflex CM3 35mm, with a crystal sync motor capable of running at HMI safe speeds, variable shutter from 5-180 degrees (If I remember correctly). The camera has three mounts, (1) PL, (2) Arri B and (3) Nikkon. My lenses are nikkon & zeiss primes.

 

Here are the tests I've come up with. Suggestions are more than welcome. Am I forgetting something?

1. Scratch Test
  a. Mag A
  b. Mag B
2. Registration Test
  a. 50mm, shoot reg. chart (grid)
  b. 50mm, reload film, shift chart
3. Lens test
  a. Focus (near and far) & Vignetting, (use 1.4, 5.6 & 11)
     i. Nikon mount
        1. 28mm
        2. 35mm
        3. 50mm
        4. 85mm
        5. 105mm
     ii. PL mount (use camera house's lens)
        1. 50mm
     iii. Arri B mount (use camera house's lens)
        1. 50mm
   b. Color
     i. Nikkor 28mm
     ii. Nikkor 35mm
     iii. Nikkor 50mm
     iv. Nikkor 85mm
     v. Nikkor 105mm
4. Speed Test
   a. Shoot 24 fps
   b. Shoot 4 fps
   c. Shoot 40 fps
5. Shutter Test
   a. 180°
   b. 90°
   c. 45°
   d. 5°
6. Accessories
   a. battery, cables, etc...

[Rolfe Klement]

Depends if you are going to buy or rent - sounds like you are going to rent but this is what I do for Buying - note of you are going to rent from one of the big places everything is easier - in fact their stuff is often so clean and spick and span your main problem is checking you have everything - but you do need to test stuff obvioulsy.

 

Don't be afraid to ask their guys for help and advice

 

I take a changing bag or tent - and the film - if you are paying then use short ends Dr Rawstock will often give you shorts anything less than 400 free and never 5218 or one of the new stocks - so don't ask (anything over 250ft is fine but you can use less.)

Some places are completely sorted and will do everything for you others are not.

 

The main stuff I test is for the camera and camera movement so mainly "stability tests" for the registration and shutter

 

and this needs some maths before

 

So what I do is shoot a chart with no text on it at 24fps for 200 ft (say) from the beginning of a roll -

 

then rewind - move the chart 2cm to left or where ever - then shoot 20ft at 4fps - then 50 ft at 24fps, then 50ft at 30fps then 70ft at the top speed - each time changing the note to say what the new speed is

 

I leave the math to you to figure out time and exposure.

 

You might need to do the same for the shutter - but if the shutter is stable at 40fps at 180' then I think it is quite rare to have a problem with the shutter at 15'

 

You need to check the shutter and gate for issues - see the arri flare post for an example of how bad this can get.

 

The next test is to check for crystal speed and you need a strobe

 

something like this from CE to check that the shutter is solid when you have the fps on the strobe and on your speed control - otherwise you are going to run into problems with the motors etc.

 

Back to rental

 

You need to check the electronices - IVS videotaps etc - also check the outputs - change temp, set framelines, etc etc - make sure you have all the cables to plug everything in - you don't want to get to set and realise you need a bnc adaptor - which costs nothing but is going to take 4 hours to get - so mkae sure you have the video system and monitor you plan to use - or something similar.

 

You need to check and have backup power or battery belts

 

You need to check that you can moiunt the camera on the legs and are not missing some little metal thing - if you are on steadicam check you can low mode mount

 

etc

 

thanks

 

R

Edited January 12, 2005 by Rolfe Klement

[Rolfe Klement]

and try get 4 mags, 3 min -cause if you have 2 and one has issues you are screwed

 

Make sure everything works at the same time - so FF fits on rods, rods fit into camera, Video assist works, signal to VCR, on the right legs etc

 

Chekc the ground glass is correct for what you need

 

And always get the nice eyepiece :)

 

thanks

 

R

[ping]

Just out of curiosity?? What are you shooting with this camera package?? Are you renting or buying??

[Nate Yolles]

Just out of curiosity?? What are you shooting with this camera package?? Are you renting or buying??

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

It's my camera. I don't really see a reason to want to rent a CM3 over an Arri 3. I certainly don't see a reason to rent nikkor lenses (even for a crash-cam you could buy them), which is why I spent a little extra to put a PL mount on the camera. So I have a set of Nikkor primes, which may be a little hard to pull focus with, but they look good and don't cost a small fortune. They'll be good to shoot tests with which is a major reason I purchased the camera. When I use the setup for 2nd or 3rd unit work, I can use the Zeiss or Cookes from A-Camera, and when I shoot for my demo reel or a music video I will rent a set. I'm happy with the purchase. I have a 35mm crystal-sync, variable speed, variable shutter camera for less than 6 grand.

 

I bought the camera a little while ago but haven't had a chance to shoot it yet. I gaffed a couple of features in a row - As we all know these low budget shows go 6 days a week and long days. I'm doing 2nd unit on a feature, we prep on Friday and this will be my first opportunity to thoroughly inspect the camera. I need to make sure everything is alright while I can still go back to the selling camera house and have them fix/adjust anything not right.

[Rolfe Klement]

When buying you have the advantage - so ask for extra screws for everything- cause trying to find a mounting screw that fell off on a steadicam shot in a rainy field is not going to happen and replacing it takes time and money

 

Try and get the silver covers for the mags

 

Try and get the nice boxes the bits come in - camera box, battery box, lens box - cause they might have the ones lying empty once you take them camera - and it will set you back £200 to get a new one

 

I don't know the camera but ask for extra Groundglass - if they have extra (?) and mountings for it

 

Try and get a toolkit - Arri's come with a nice one in blue bag - try an ask or buy as many accessories as you need cause you are going to pay for them later - things like a battery cable splitter is almost free when you buy the camera but goes up to £100 if you want it later.

 

Offer to pay for everything but they might throw it in free :)

 

thanks

 

R