Nick Centera Posted May 23, 2010 Share Posted May 23, 2010 Hey, I am going to do some testing on the kodak 7219 stock and I am going to shoot outdoors during the day without an ND then pull it down a few stops. Has anyone had any success doing this? I know that in the interrogation sequence in the The Dark Knight that Wally Pfister did this. I am also looking to bleach bypass the film too. Any suggestions or advice? Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member David Mullen ASC Posted May 23, 2010 Premium Member Share Posted May 23, 2010 Since a bleach-bypass process when done to the negative adds a lot of density -- as if you overexposed by more than a stop -- most people compensate by underexposing (rating faster). A few compensate by pull-processing as a form of density reduction. This also "mellows" the big increase in contrast from the bleach-bypass. "Munich" did this for a few scenes. But you sort of end up back where you started in terms of speed -- i.e. you end up rating the 500T stock at 500 ASA and asking for a one-stop pull with the skip-bleach. This way you are subtracting one-stop of density in processing, which partially counteracts the more-than-1-stop increase in density from leaving all that silver in the image. This all gets rather expensive. Plus not all labs offer a pull-process for 16mm, just push-processing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Centera Posted May 23, 2010 Author Share Posted May 23, 2010 Since a bleach-bypass process when done to the negative adds a lot of density -- as if you overexposed by more than a stop -- most people compensate by underexposing (rating faster). A few compensate by pull-processing as a form of density reduction. This also "mellows" the big increase in contrast from the bleach-bypass. "Munich" did this for a few scenes. But you sort of end up back where you started in terms of speed -- i.e. you end up rating the 500T stock at 500 ASA and asking for a one-stop pull with the skip-bleach. This way you are subtracting one-stop of density in processing, which partially counteracts the more-than-1-stop increase in density from leaving all that silver in the image. My main concern is that when I have taken some basic ratings outside for the 500T I get a F22 or 32, should I get an ND filter just to bring it down? That is why I was asking about pulling the stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member David Mullen ASC Posted May 23, 2010 Premium Member Share Posted May 23, 2010 Yes, ND filters are almost as basic as batteries in terms of necessary equipment. The Sunny 16 rule says that in direct midday sunlight on a clear day, your exposure is f/16 if the ASA is the same number as the value under "1/ " for the shutter speed, i.e. 50 ASA at 1/50th, 100 ASA at 1/100th, etc. Since 1/50th is close to the shutter speed for 24 fps filming with a 180 degree shutter angle, you'd be at f/16 on 50 ASA at 24 fps in frontal sunlight on a clear day. So ND filters are pretty much a given unless you are using 50 ASA filmstock, or live in a country with a lot of overcast weather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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