Still photography session (Need advices)

Martin Hong · December 28, 2011

Hello everybody

I am gonna shoot a photo session next week at an office and outdoor, for a health care service corporation, basically what they want is for the web and flyer, but of course i expect the result to be the best. So i wanted to apply cinematography instead of still photography (not using flash but continuous lighting) To light up the scene. Made some cross references and got all this kind of results, of a clean and bright working environment as they are supposed to be:

stock-photo-16271239-happy-businesswoman-on-call-with-executives-in-the-background.jpg

*Note: just for reference only, no copyright infringement intended.

But unfortunately, the office does not have big windows and enough natural light source to enhance a little bit the environment.. this is a picture they sent me:

As you can see, is a close office, a call center, plus the color of the desk arent pretty nice in my opinion..

Also have to do the outdoor shoot of an Ambulance, during day, what would be the best way to do so? since the ambulance is white and they'd also have a white background in case if they want to cut it off and separate it for the flyer, i have already suggest them to use a photography studio for that matter, or just simply use some background that has a value by itself (such as a hospital), or even do a illustration of emergency staffs working.. But as for the lighting is my major concern for both cases, specially the ambulance, is quite tricky.

Any suggestion or advice? i am thinking about KinoFlo for the office.. some softboxes and reflector.. Not sure what kind of shot we are going to do, but i suppose will be wide, mid close of the people and close up of someone working, or even a group shot of the whole crew posing for the photo.

Thanks in advance!

Daniel Smith · December 29, 2011

I tried using continuous lights for photography once, despite the power of the lights it was still border-lining the correct exposure without dropping the shutter speed too low. From what I remember I was using 3x 800watt red heads. But then again I was using an f3.5-5.6 lens..

Maybe you'll have better luck, but I've always used Bowens flash heads with soft boxes for any photographic work, and I've always been happy with them.

Martin Hong · December 29, 2011

I tried using continuous lights for photography once, despite the power of the lights it was still border-lining the correct exposure without dropping the shutter speed too low. From what I remember I was using 3x 800watt red heads. But then again I was using an f3.5-5.6 lens..

Maybe you'll have better luck, but I've always used Bowens flash heads with soft boxes for any photographic work, and I've always been happy with them.

Hey Daniel, thanks for your input

As you can see, the office is quite big, i am not sure for now which to use, if we are doing the wide shot, so where to place the light or flash will be very tricky, specially when is far away and the corner could be darker. The main reason i considered KinoFlo first because it will be easier to handle for me. As i dont have flashmeter or lightmeter at all :/

Daniel Smith · December 30, 2011

I think the Kino will work for lighting key subjects at close range, but for background I'd imagine a HMI bounced off some poly would be more effective.

I could be wrong though, perhaps someone here with a bit more experience in lighting can help out.

Apologies if you already know this, but just remember to grade the photos.. it's difficult getting the white balance and exposure 100% perfect for every shot when you've got people standing/sitting there posing, and lowering skin detail can often help give you that silky look you seen in a lot of professional photography.

For example,

Edited December 30, 2011 by Daniel Ashley-Smith

Martin Hong · December 30, 2011

Well I have considered HMI before but soon I discard that option quickly as: It's an office and not sure if they can handle the power consumption. And also don't want to heat the room up, although they already have AC running but don't want the room temperature to increase too much, that's why i put the Fluorescent light on the top of the list, plus they will be cheaper to rent..

Haven't actually worked with KinoFlo, and of course i'd also need to add Minusgreen filter to it...

I am just stuck to the background problem, as you can see, the office is quite big and empty, if i take a wide shot, dont really have a place to hide the light.. so how can i lit the scene to achieve an even light when there's no much place i can hide the light source? :/

I know is tricky to get the right balance and exposure.. I only have a 18% grey card now, no lightmeter, although i should rent one.. so any suggestion?

there will be close up shots so lighting wont be much of the problem there (On the subject), but problem is light the background up just like the examples :/

Tom Jensen · December 30, 2011

Don't try to re-invent the wheel. There is a reason we use film lights in film and flash for still photography. There is absolutely no reason to heat up a room and use the crew and power needed to use film lights. You don't want people sweating. It's a mistake to do it this way. Rent some flash units and use those. Especially if you are shooting digital. You see your results immediately so you can make any lighting changes on the spot. I can't stress this enough. Rent flashes. You only need continuous lighting for continuous filming not single pictures.

Martin Hong · December 30, 2011

Don't try to re-invent the wheel. There is a reason we use film lights in film and flash for still photography. There is absolutely no reason to heat up a room and use the crew and power needed to use film lights. You don't want people sweating. It's a mistake to do it this way. Rent some flash units and use those. Especially if you are shooting digital. You see your results immediately so you can make any lighting changes on the spot. I can't stress this enough. Rent flashes. You only need continuous lighting for continuous filming not single pictures.

Tom, thanks for your advice. Is true what you said, the main reason i wanted to use continuous lighting its because i can see the result right through my eye first so i can make the adjustment.. plus i can have 10 different light sources (as for now i planned 19 KinoFlo) to light up the scene.. so everything is more controllable.. if you can see the pictures above.. a big room using flash, i will have to use more than 4 flashes to get a even lighting.. (maybe, i wouldnt know, havent tried yet) So far i have only worked flash for portrait use, which is just single/group shot with background, not lighting the entire room with people sitting and working. Just so far i cant figure the configuration for this scene if i use flash..

Any suggestion for that? how can i use flash to get an even light in wide shot, without the flash to be seen?.. :/ (by having them too far will project harsh shadow.. by bouncing the furthest corner wont be lit enough..)