How to light and expose faces for S16?

[Isaac Eastgate]

Now i know this isnt an easy one, but i'm just looking for somewhere to start.

I'm a fan of incredibly flattering light, painterly, natural and lifelike, and full of subtlety. The new kinoflo look appeals to me, but i prefer a soft glowing look, the kind in classic movies, especially barry lyndon (the "window look"). I'm relatively indifferent to fill but i quite like slight edge/hair light.

If anyone has any advice, first of all a go-to kit for lighting locations (tungstens? light control? silks or bounce? scaling it up? lighting in sunshine and overcast outdoors?) and then maybe advice on where i can get an education on this. I dont have access to many sets to shadow, or the time for it, and when i do i'm normally the one expected to be calling the shots... I have absolutely no idea where to start for advice as most of the setups i see discussed are pretty unnatural and over the top. I'm looking for simplicity and quality of light.

I'm also wondering especially if someone has a good rule for exposure points on faces, highlights and shadows, and where to place them. I do quite like the hollywood tan and was wondering if this was a matter of exposure, grading or makeup. This goes for natural light situations too, how many stops over does skin look best on s16?

 

Looking forward to your advice!

 

Isaac

xxx

[Chris Burke]

2/3 to 1 stop over is where I like to be.