Erik Vilhelm

btw you should post these canon 814 questions in the 8mm forum

Does anyone know exactly how the manual aperture settings work on the canon 814 AZ E? If the setting is on auto then the meter will move showing you which f-stop you are at, but when you pull out the button and are in manual mode the meter stops working, and so my question is how do you know which f-stop you are setting it to if there is no indicator? I have a manual for the camera but i am still a little confused. If anyone knows get back to me, id appreciate it. thanks.

Bucky

There should be a meter in the viewfinder, turn the knob back & forth until you see the marker indicating the f-stop

Try this

http://www.mondofoto.com/manuals/canonautozoom814electronic/

You need px625 1.35V batteries for the meter (not sold any longer because of mercury content) . Buy replacements from Weincell (or cheaper alkaline button cell batteries from any electronics store, although they are 1.5V).

Sad to hear this, one more setback for small format enthusiasts.

I've got some lenses in the Standard Mount for sale that cover 35mm. One or two that only cover 16mm. But I also have a Arri Standard to C-mount adapter so you can use these lenses on your Arri and your Bolex!

 

I dont know what it's worth but if you have a reasonable offer I'd sell any or all of it to you.

 

Best

Allen

Sounds interesting, which are the lenses?

Arri standard mount is the same for Arri 16mm and for example Arri 2B 35mm, right?

Here's a quote from The camaraman's handbook(1974):

 

NOTE: 16mm and 35mm Arriflex lenses are interchangeable with the following exceptions: 5.7mm, 10mm, 16mm, and 25mm. These will not "cover" a 35mm aperture. The only wide-angle lenses that will "cover" a 35mm aperture are: 9.8mm, 14.5mm, 18.5mm retrofocus and the 28mm made for 35mm cameras.

Any idea about a Zeiss zoom lens (10-100mm) with ARRI Bayonet mount?

I read somewhere that standard 16mm lenses might cover 35mm aperture at focal lengths over 50mm....is there any way to calculate this?

This is the only one I found that wasn't an off brand or premium lens:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Arriflex-Zeiss-8MM-Wid...id=p3286.c0.m14

 

Schneiders are maybe the most common for that camera. They're "so-so to good" lenses. They used to go for $100.00 each in good to excellent condition. Since RED has come out, they go for $300.00 to $1,000.00. However, with the economy tanking, the price of all film gear is coming down. I liked them when I had them on my IIB, before I sold it off. They're softish but certainly usable.

This Zeiss you found seems to be for Arri 16mm. Does it cover 35mm also? In that case, I have a Zeiss zoom 10-100mm (for 16mm cams), do you think that one works as well?

How much (roughly) do a cheap "all-round" lens (say 35 or 50mm) for Arri IIB in OK condition typically go for on ebay / camera shops?

I shot some 10 year old Fuji 64D and the results were good, nice colors, and only slight fogging.

This film had been stored in a freezer. For faster films the storage effects of course would have been more severe...

Looks great, nice backlight in the garage scenes.

Are you sponsored by Zeunerts beer by any chance? ;)

Ok, looking forward for the finished movie, there's never enough grindhouse flicks!

I have a Tiffen 85BN6 filter, and from what I've understood it's a combination filter of 85B + ND 0.6. Since the ND 0.6 removes 2 stops of light, and the 85B 2/3 stops, will the total light loss be 2+2/3 stop? Or is the idea with this filter that it for "simplicity" just removes 2 stops like an ordinary ND 0.6?

Thanks for sharing this interesting and detailed report! How did the transfer turn out?

Nice to see the 100D in action. Thanks for sharing!

Hi there,

 

I had a search of this, the s8 and 16mm forums but can't seem to find anywhere in the UK which will process fomapan. I thought about buying a home kit but would prefer a lab to do it for me.

 

Ideally looking to get some double 8 developed and maybe some 16mm.

 

Any ideas? If not in the UK is there anywhere in Europe? I tried Andec but they don't seem to be able to give great results.

 

On the subject of European B+W, I can't seem to find anywhere that sells Orwo. I tried the filmotec website but they don't seem to sell anything.

 

Thanks

s8 reversal lab (Netherlands) does Fomapan

http://www.super8.nl/english/e_frame_price_16proces.htm

I have one and I think it's a nice camera, but maybe you can find a better one for that money.

Positive:

Bright viewfinder, easy to focus

Negative:

Only meters 40/160 ASA

Note that slightly aged stock with a high fog level can still be OK for some types of shot, but not others, especially those with a very high brightness range or where all the important detail is deep in the shadows.

Interesting topic since it's always tempting to save money on old but cheap film.

I got some Fuji F-64D (8621) for free, and I think the stock is discontinued since 1998, so it was at least ten years old when I shot it some months ago. It had been stored in a freezer since it was new.

I rated it as 25 ASA instead of 64 ASA.

Overall I'm really satisfied with the outcome of shooting this quite old film stock.

However, it's not like new, so here's two screenshots (jpeg's unfortunately) of the two situations described above by Dominic:

High brightness range

The white building gets a little burned out (also due to overexposure I guess) but otherwise it looks quite OK.

Shadows and blacks

The shadows and blacks don't hold very much details and look grainy, though it's easier to spot when watching the actual film. It gets a certain look for sure.

I had the same problem until recently. Now I have obtained a sealed lead-acid system with 12V & 14Ah and it's very convenient. My guess is that you could use any 12V lead-acid battery.

Regarding the XLR, I have a 5-pin with plus (red) connected to pin 4 and minus (black) connected to pin 1.

I found a thread on filmshooting.com (http://www.filmshooting.com/scripts/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=19086&p=179923) which says the 200T is speed notched for 160, and will meter at 160 unless the 85 filter is moved out of the way, in which case it would then meter at 100.

Yeah, I think this is correct. I cut my notch and then filmed it as 100 (then just slightly overexposing the 125 ASA) and it looked fine.

Here you can find the manual for this very nice camera:

http://www.mondofoto.com/manuals/canonautozoom814electronic/

Good luck!

/Erik

A short time ago I shot a roll of Kodak Vision 200T on a bright sunny afternoon using the auto exposure on my Canon 814 Auto Zoom Electronic. I had it developed at Pac Lab in NY, and had it transferred to mini DV. The results was very overexposed.

 

I was able to manipulate it in post to get it to a decent image, though there's a prevalent a rust-like hue to the footage. My question is should I have used an ND filter? Does anyone have any experience using the variable shutter (the "2" and "4" positions) for this model? Would using the "2" which means half the light being let in do the same as using an ND?

 

Sorry for all the questions. Despite the fact that it was overexposed, thee was a certain quality I liked about it that I had not seen with the reversals, hence I'm very eager to explore this stock to it's full potential.

 

Many thanks

If you cut the filter notch it will be exposed with the 85 filter for daylight shooting, and the speed will be 125 ASA instead of 200 ASA under tungsten. Maybe the bright afternoon sun gave readings out of scale on your internal meter? And thereby overexposing. Using "2" would give half the exposure time, and "4" a quarter, so maybe that could help. If you want to meter correctly in these modes you also need to turn the exposure adjustment knob.

Thanks a lot Tim! As soon as I read your post I went to check my camera and found the Film Plane mark, this is great to know. I have a bolex h-16 I'm pretty sure it is from M series from 1958, and it has a pan cinor 17.5-75mm zoom lens which has a viewfinder but i've looked through it many times while playing with focus and it doesn't seem to change. It seems like the viewfinder is only meant for framing things up. Thanks again for the info.

 

I'm still a bit confused about the focusing to infinity thing though. The lens I have goes from 6ft to 100ft(I think) and then after the 100ft mark is the infinity symbol. My only guess is anything past 100 feet is in the infinity range, but I'm not sure. I'll be looking around a bit to find out, but if anyone can clear that last thing up for me that would be great. thanks.

I also have a Bolex H-16 M, and it has a viewer with parallax corrector on the side of the camera (not on the lens) for framing.

Try the viewfinder on the lens with full zoom on any close object, and play with the focus to see if it changes.

After 100 ft (say 110ft +) I would set it to infinity.

It will drop to 125 ASA.

Hey guys,

I've got some questions about Beaulieu 6008S and Super8 in general.

The thing is I've heard a lot about that what you need to get right when shooting Super8 is the ASA of the film. So say if I'm shooting with Vision2 200T this film has 200 ASA, but I've read alot of stuff about that you shouldn't set the camera precisly to 200 ASA. Why is this? I've read somewhere that for example Ektachrome 64T should be set to 40 ASA. Why is this? I just can't understand what people are raving about. So what's the deal with this? Cheers guys

With negative film (vision2) you could set it to less than 200 ASA and overexpose to a certain degree without any problem.

With reversal film (Ektachrome) it's better to aim for exactly 64 ASA, since it's less tolerant for overexposing (underexposing is "more" OK though).

I think Andec in Berlin, Germany, can do most of the things you request (not sure about subtitling though).

www.andecfilm.de