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Erik Vilhelm

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Everything posted by Erik Vilhelm

  1. btw you should post these canon 814 questions in the 8mm forum
  2. There should be a meter in the viewfinder, turn the knob back & forth until you see the marker indicating the f-stop
  3. Try this http://www.mondofoto.com/manuals/canonautozoom814electronic/
  4. You need px625 1.35V batteries for the meter (not sold any longer because of mercury content) . Buy replacements from Weincell (or cheaper alkaline button cell batteries from any electronics store, although they are 1.5V).
  5. Sad to hear this, one more setback for small format enthusiasts.
  6. Sounds interesting, which are the lenses? Arri standard mount is the same for Arri 16mm and for example Arri 2B 35mm, right?
  7. Any idea about a Zeiss zoom lens (10-100mm) with ARRI Bayonet mount? I read somewhere that standard 16mm lenses might cover 35mm aperture at focal lengths over 50mm....is there any way to calculate this?
  8. This Zeiss you found seems to be for Arri 16mm. Does it cover 35mm also? In that case, I have a Zeiss zoom 10-100mm (for 16mm cams), do you think that one works as well?
  9. How much (roughly) do a cheap "all-round" lens (say 35 or 50mm) for Arri IIB in OK condition typically go for on ebay / camera shops?
  10. I shot some 10 year old Fuji 64D and the results were good, nice colors, and only slight fogging. This film had been stored in a freezer. For faster films the storage effects of course would have been more severe...
  11. Looks great, nice backlight in the garage scenes. Are you sponsored by Zeunerts beer by any chance? ;)
  12. Ok, looking forward for the finished movie, there's never enough grindhouse flicks!
  13. I have a Tiffen 85BN6 filter, and from what I've understood it's a combination filter of 85B + ND 0.6. Since the ND 0.6 removes 2 stops of light, and the 85B 2/3 stops, will the total light loss be 2+2/3 stop? Or is the idea with this filter that it for "simplicity" just removes 2 stops like an ordinary ND 0.6?
  14. Thanks for sharing this interesting and detailed report! How did the transfer turn out?
  15. s8 reversal lab (Netherlands) does Fomapan http://www.super8.nl/english/e_frame_price_16proces.htm
  16. I have one and I think it's a nice camera, but maybe you can find a better one for that money. Positive: Bright viewfinder, easy to focus Negative: Only meters 40/160 ASA
  17. Interesting topic since it's always tempting to save money on old but cheap film. I got some Fuji F-64D (8621) for free, and I think the stock is discontinued since 1998, so it was at least ten years old when I shot it some months ago. It had been stored in a freezer since it was new. I rated it as 25 ASA instead of 64 ASA. Overall I'm really satisfied with the outcome of shooting this quite old film stock. However, it's not like new, so here's two screenshots (jpeg's unfortunately) of the two situations described above by Dominic: High brightness range The white building gets a little burned out (also due to overexposure I guess) but otherwise it looks quite OK. Shadows and blacks The shadows and blacks don't hold very much details and look grainy, though it's easier to spot when watching the actual film. It gets a certain look for sure.
  18. I had the same problem until recently. Now I have obtained a sealed lead-acid system with 12V & 14Ah and it's very convenient. My guess is that you could use any 12V lead-acid battery. Regarding the XLR, I have a 5-pin with plus (red) connected to pin 4 and minus (black) connected to pin 1.
  19. Yeah, I think this is correct. I cut my notch and then filmed it as 100 (then just slightly overexposing the 125 ASA) and it looked fine. Here you can find the manual for this very nice camera: http://www.mondofoto.com/manuals/canonautozoom814electronic/ Good luck! /Erik
  20. If you cut the filter notch it will be exposed with the 85 filter for daylight shooting, and the speed will be 125 ASA instead of 200 ASA under tungsten. Maybe the bright afternoon sun gave readings out of scale on your internal meter? And thereby overexposing. Using "2" would give half the exposure time, and "4" a quarter, so maybe that could help. If you want to meter correctly in these modes you also need to turn the exposure adjustment knob.
  21. I also have a Bolex H-16 M, and it has a viewer with parallax corrector on the side of the camera (not on the lens) for framing. Try the viewfinder on the lens with full zoom on any close object, and play with the focus to see if it changes. After 100 ft (say 110ft +) I would set it to infinity.
  22. With negative film (vision2) you could set it to less than 200 ASA and overexpose to a certain degree without any problem. With reversal film (Ektachrome) it's better to aim for exactly 64 ASA, since it's less tolerant for overexposing (underexposing is "more" OK though).
  23. I think Andec in Berlin, Germany, can do most of the things you request (not sure about subtitling though). www.andecfilm.de
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