Tron X

If you go to onsuper8.org you'll find a super 8 calculator under the tools section on the main page. It should help you.

For your price range I would suggest looking into a Canon. The higher models (most of which are compatable with 64T) offer auto and manual exposure control, as well as power and manual zoom, several frame rate settings, and most only use AA batteries. As they were sold in high numbers a nice Canon can be had within your price range. Also, Santo's comments on negative film stocks were correct, but from how you described your intentions I believe you will end up using reversal most of the time. There isn't an economical way to print super 8 negatives so if you use them you're pretty much guaranteed to be editing via computer. Also, for a beginner negs can be pretty expensive. With time you might find yourself finding use for them, but for now explore the wonder of the medium. Have fun with super 8. Tim

I wouldn't suggest this camera for 3 reasons: 1) It only has a frame rate of 18fps. Meaning, you have no option to shoot in some form of slow motion, at industry standard 24fps, or use a single frame feature to make animation. 2) This camera is not compatable with the new Kodak Ektachrome 64T reversal stock. As you stated your new to film, I assume the extent of the film stocks you will be using are Color and Black and White reversal. Therefore, I would suggest you look for a camera that can properly expose 64T. 3) This is a sound camera. Unfortunately, Kodak discontinued the production of sound Super 8 carts a couple years ago due to environmental strains. So the sound option isn't really necessary and just adds weight to the camera. Check out this site: super8Wiki It has a list of 64T compatable cameras here: 64T compatable And here is a list of almost every super 8 camera and its specs, listed by manufacturer: Cameras My suggestion is to look for a camera with single frame, 18fps, and some form of slow motion (30fps or higher). 24fps isn't vital and at this stage you probably don't have the bugdet to shoot exclusively at this frame rate. (Shooting at 18fps makes a super 8 cart last approx 3 min 20 sec, shooting at 24fps makes a cart last 2 min 40 sec.). Once you get more confident and start investigating telecine you might consider using 24fps, but if you're just going to project then 18fps is all you need. Depending on your price range I would suggest different cameras. If you want to spend between 15 and 30 dollars, use eBay or check flea markets. Make sure the thing runs with batteries put in before buying it. At this price it's never certain that your camera will work but you haven't spent too much money and it'll look nice on a shelf or something. Cameras suggested: - Canon 512 XL Electronic - Any number if the Minolta Autopaks If you're willing to spend a little more you have a wide variaty of options with Canon: - 518 Auto Zoom or 518 SV - Canon Autozoom 814 Electronic and Autozoom 1014 Electronic - Canon 814 Xl-S and 1014 XL-S - Canon 814 Auto Zoom After that you're getting into the several hundred dollar price range with: - Beaulieus - Leicinas - Nikons - Well serviced Canons Always be weary of cameras that use a separate battery for the light meter. I'm sure they're available somewhere but you might end up spending 10 dollars on a part that could otherwise be covered by AAs in a similar camera. If you're paying over 35 dollars be sure to have your camera lubed and serviced so you don't ruin your investment. There are other great first cameras out there and I'm sure others will chime in with suggestions. Good luck.

Yashica Super 800 Electro Year: 1970-74 Lens: Yashinon-DX 1,6 / 7,5 - 60 mm Microprism Focusing Auto / Manual Zoom Frame rates: 12,18,24 + single frame Auto Exposure +/- correction for auto Remote control socket No sound 4 X 1,5V batteries + No separate battery for light meter Made in Japan Yes, this camera will expose Tri-X and 64T correctly. Be sure to post some footage of the snowboarding on the net when you're done. I'd love to see it. Tim

Do they split DS8 when they process it? If so, why don't they sell Super 8? Maybe the machine they use to split the DS8 is not light tight so they just can't. (Or don't want to.)

How much does Kodak charge for E64T? I can't seem to find the price anywhere on their site. Am I missing something?

Thanks.

I'm doing an independant study on japanese cinema for my cultural studies class. (I'm in grade 10). I just finished watching Seven Samurai, which was amazing, and want to watch more. I've done some research but would like to know your opinions on which films I should watch next. If possible could someone point me in the direction of a good 'pink film'? I think I'd also like to watch Gojira, should I? All suggestions welcome. (PS - I'm also interested in Russian cinena just for personal enjoyment, any suggestions there?)

I am buying a canon 518 auto zoom and was wondering if it is cricial that it has its eye cup. I read something about the bolex super 8s stating that without the eye cup there was fogging on the film, is this true for other super 8 cameras - including mine? Is there a place I can buy a new one or will I be fine without it. Comfort is not an issue, I could easily make a simple one from cardboard and electrical tape if needed - as I've done before with a polaroid camera.

And the Leicina Special.

I just bought a Eumig Viennette 8 for ten dollars. It seems that it runs okay and wold like to test it. Can anyone suggest that cheapest choice for testing it to see how it works? I don't care whether the film is colour or b/w. (PS - Does anyone have a copy of a manual for this camera they could send me?)

Look for an old video transfer box from the 80s. I found one at a Goodwill for $6.50 and find it yields great results (for it's price). Just project your image onto the screen on one side and film the image off the other with your DV camera. I hook my DV directly to my computer and import as the projector runs. Sure there's some flicker (minimal), and sure the image isn't amazing, but that's how my parents watched it; projected on a Da-Lite screen some 30 years ago. This is super 8, people expect it to look like crap. I'm not saying super 8 does look like crap - it doesn't - I'm saying that you don't need a perfect image to make a great little movie. This is a picture from mike nyberg's amazing super 8 page. It shows a video transfer using a box similar to mine.

Kodak XL 55 Year: 1972-74 Lens: Ektar 1,2 / 9 - 21 mm Aerial Focusing Manual Zoom Frame rates: 9, 18 Shutter degree: 230 Auto Exposure (Not TTL) No sound Made in USA Manufacturer: Eastman Kodak The XL 55 cannot meter accurately with the Ektachrome 64T film but has non-reflex (non TTL) external light meters. If the camera reads the notch as 40ASA, use a ND 0.2 neutral density filter on the lens. If it reads the notch as 160ASA, use a ND 0.4 neutral density filter on the electric eye. My suggestion would be to look for a camera that will meter Ektachrome 64T correctly and has the option of manual exposure. Go ahead and buy it if it's going for cheap - at least it looks cool.

I mean I made fun of him for averaging half a "Japanashit" per sentence in a comment today. He must have felt the need to build up his ego and started this.

I kind of smile at myself knowing I spurred this thread. To think, the great and powerful Santo needs to justify what he says to a lowly 15-year-old who shoots his 8mm movies off the wall to edit on his Mac :P .