Sir Alvin Ekarma

If it's a wind-up, you could get a shoulder stock/mount that's usually used for SLRs. Here's one that's on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/Bush-Hawk-SLR-Camera-S...1QQcmdZViewItem If you do a search for "camera shoulder stock mount" or a variation thereof, you can find something but you'll need to do some trawling about. Also, there's an arri shoulder mount and a Kovas/Kinor body brace that pops up now and again. And keep in mind that if you've got an EBM you'll probably need to buy a 12v battery and one of those on/off power cords from Du-all or Procam since the power grip won't fit.

Depending on how much the camera was used before hand, you may want to have it sent to a place like Du-all for an over-haul/tune-up which will set you back $200-$300. Still, I only had my Scoopic serviced once and that was when it had to be repaired.

Any amount of film that you use to load it is going to get fogged so the five feet is expendable. There's another extra five feet at the end for unloading but you may just want to take it out in a changing bag if it's something vital. Just remember to mark the film case as "Critical End" and the lab will know what to do.

Strictly speaking, it's just the five feet of film at the head of a roll on top of the 100ft already there. Again, the manual should clarify all of this for you.

It's standard in that it's usually a 100ft daylight loading spool and those are a dime a dozen. Like I said, you could just go to the lab and ask for a bunch if there isn't one w/ the camera already plus you'll probably need a couple of extras. Yeah. You may want to go to Ebay and get an instruction manual. That should answer any and all questions you might/will have. Good luck!

It requires a 100' take up spool. You can probably drop by whatever lab you'll have the processing done at and get a bunch of emptys for free if it already doesn't have one left by the last person who used it. I've found it easier to load than a bolex. Just snip off the end using the film cutter inside the camera, run the camera (remember not to load with the camera set over 24 fps, but you can use a slower speed to be safe) and stick the film into the guides. The camera is loaded in five seconds and you could even do this in a changing bag. It's a relfex camera. No worries.

Are you sure abou that? There always seems to be at least one Scoopic M or MS listed weekly at a reasonable price (under $500) but if you need a camera ASAP, I could see how you could be stuck. If you had time, I'd say get some auction sniping software to get a deal on a Scoopy but if not, get a bolex. Only get a K3 if you can get one that's already been upgraded.

How about a Scoopic M/MS? You can get those for a good price on Ebay. You'll be outside so f stop won't be a problem and it's pretty much idiot proof when it comes to loading. I had one and it never let me down.

I have the Poe 17-100 zoom and what I ended up doing was taking the lens cap, cutting out the cener and taping on an 86mm UV fitler on what remained. From there, I was able to get an 86mm polarizer for cheep on Ebay and it screwed on just fine. Also, I later got a 86mm to Series 9 step ring so I could put on an 85 filter and not use the behind the lens filter. As for primes, it's easier than you think to find a step ring from a switar to something like 49mm thread by going on the (again) Ebay. Just my 2 cents.

You could try some of those wide angle converter attachments for camcorders or digital cameras on an SLR lens but the quality can be variable so you'd have to do tests. For all it's quirks, I suggest just sticking w/ the Peleng; the only other option are Nikon lenses and they'll cost more than the K3.

It's an S16 Bolex EBM and I wouldn't recommend the Peleng. The image was always off. If I had to do it again, I'd get that 10mm Schneider as it's about the same price. Other debits to the Peleng: crazy distortion, it's slooooow, and you need to rig up a french flag because any light that strikes the convex lens directly will cause flare that will only be visible once you get it developed or telecined; I had to put together a flag w/ a 4x6" piece of blag foam core and held it right above the lens w/ heavy armature wire taped to the camera whenever I was outdoors . The same flare problem is also found in the 17mm Zenitar.

A proper 9mm would be nice but if wishes were horses... I do have a 8mm Peleng but it doesn't agree w/ my Bolex for some crazy reason-- it's a bit soft; it works just fine on my K3 though. The 10mm schneider looks like something I might look into later, what with them being S16 safe and all.

They're pretty much all the same; you can basically tell by the picture-- if the c-mount thread has some odd looking lens elements that really shoot out, you don't want it. What gets me is that there's some guy who sells them like they're some kinda super secret gadget and he'll shot by the mafia if he gives the brand name. Re: collimating for RX. Yeah, you can focus by eye and even Chambless told me that focusing on the ground glass will take care of most of your worries, but.... better safe than sorry. Dieter at Procam can do it for a decent price.

According to the folks at Chambless, most of the lenses under 12.5 are meant for 2/3" CCD cameras so they're good for R16, but bad for S16 (or so the rule of thumb goes). And if it means anything, all CCTV lenses they sell are Cosmicar http://www.chamblesscineequip.com/catalog/lenses.htm . Re: 9mm S16/R16 lens. I was able to whip up a good 9mm lens using a computar 12.5mm lens and a Cosmicar wide angle attachment-- total cost under $100. check out the thread here http://www.cinematography.com/forum2004/in...c=5646&st=0

I lit it for around f1.4 using 7212, and the image held together. Still, it didn't want to make me shoot everything with a single 250w photoflood. I did this in one of my tests: one test was a long shot, the other a MCU, both times with shots at f4, f2.8 and wide open. As I mentioned, it held up well against my 25mm switar and Switar zoom in image quality but I regret not being able to to test it against a 10mm switar. Surprisingly , the lens that had the best image (at f4 and f2.8) was the Angenieux-- not devastaingly slow, but noticeably.

Wide open, the computar didn't look so hot but okay-- about as well at wide open as the 25mm switar I was testing it against; still, it's not like I'll be shooting by candle light any time soon. At f4, the image quality was comparable for both lenses. Surprisingly the lenses that totally crapped out wide open in my tests were a 15mm angenieux and 50mm takumar SLR lens.

According to JK camera www.jkcamera.com , a RX-collimated 12.5 Computar CCTV lens is not only S16 safe but comparable to a switar. In my own tests, the lens looks good but I didn't have a 10mm switar to compare it to.

Would the 400ft magazines also need to be upgraded to S16?

A 32mm to 37mm step ring http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-KODAK-1762269-37MM...1QQcmdZViewItem

The thread for the 25mm switar is 32mm so you'd need a 32mm to 37mm step ring at the very least. You'd need to trawl ebay, but you can find them for fairly cheep.

You could get some step rings for either the 25mm (37mm lens thread) or 75mm (don't know what thread that would be), and then use some standard photographic close-up lenses. You can probably get a set in 49mm off Ebay for $15-$20.

I was following this auction and it didn't have any takers. I guess the lack of 400ft mags ended up being the deal killer.

his site is www.bolex-usa.com but it's down. You can try his email at bolexusa@yahoo.com . He's one-man operation so something may have happened or may not; I can probably dig up his business number as well if that doesn't work. If it turns out he's out of circulation, Du-all www.duallcamera.com could do it but the price is will be a bit higher.

If you're dead set w/ using the power grip, the absolute easiest thing to do is to have somebody like Dieter at Procam make a two-foot cable to attach between the power grip and body and then just rig up a bag and strap to hold the power grip and hang the whole thing from the tripod. As I mentioned earlier, this is what I used to do and it works; the only expense is having the cable custom-made but that's going to be way cheaper and less time-consuming than buying that rare EMB tripod attachment, getting an XLR power cord and 12V battery or building what you have in mind. That's my 2 cents anyhoo.

Yeah, you're going to need some sand bags to make sure it doesn't tip over but that's no biggie. And let's not forgot a (very) sturdy tripod. Anyway, it's either this or just ditching the grip altogether and running it from a power pack. And we pass the savings onto you!