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Nick Mulder

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About Nick Mulder

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    Auckland, New Zealand

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  1. True, as I myself have an RX4 with crud in the periscope prism - but: I think that is the deal breaker
  2. The goo is the glue holding the prism in the frame thingy ... It is meant to be there, but maybe it or at least something has penetrated the prism - You probably cannot see it in the finder as either it is out of focus and spread out beyond recognition or it is behind the reflective part of the prism ... I'd be saying its new prism time - which is bad - $$$ - the seller should really take it back and return your money - if it casts shadows like you say it does then the camera is useless without a new prism installed.
  3. Sorry to be the nerd - and I hope my calcs are correct - but the difference between 1/30 and 3/8 is 3.5 stops, around 8 filter factors or 0.9 and a bit ND. ND 1.5 filter is either too much or too little for either 3.5 and 5 stops (using both scales)
  4. Near on most Bolexes that have the 1:1 shaft will also have the variable shutter - you can use this to decrease the exposure time... The smaller the shutter gets the more the relative slop in the mechanism can(will) become a factor in your exposure, thats why Bolex don't register beyond '1' on the scale (which is one stop, halving the angle) - but you can use much smaller angles by eye-balling in and taping down the lever Welcome to under/overexposed slit-scan rolling shutter fun
  5. Just jam any ol' 2amp fuse in there - fuse wire is good, or a nail
  6. We did it for a recent shoot - If I remember correctly it was a little 6 channel desk >DMX >Dimmer... The reason it was fine is that we were shooting black and white so color temperature change wasn't as issue, we also wanted lighting changes mid-shot.
  7. That click is made by a little raised section on the outside of the spring casing hitting a little fwing-fwang every revolution - An EBM wont have one of these (unless they have made it work some other way, I dont have an EBM on hand to see, but I know thew EL doesn't have one for instance). After listening to the video I'd suggest your EBM is in need of some adjustment that cannot be simply diagnosed over the net like this - this is not to say that the fix may be simple (and lets hope it is), but there are enough things to get to loose and/or misaligned its like a needle in a haystack... Personally I'd start by getting some film and making a large loop so with the camera running you can keep going for as long as your battery will last - Now, I dont know if you really want to do this or not (but I certainly would) - when running get in there and gently push and pull on the operational parts that you can access and see if any manipulation makes the noise either louder or quieter - and unless you have the $$$ to fork out I do mean GENTLY - so, lets imagine you find that when metal thingy A when bent in direction B makes the noise go away (and in turn causes no other new issues, tricky ones you cant see until you get the footage back like excessive film weave) - anyhoo look and see if metal thingy A has some sort of screw on it that when loosened makes metal thingy A adjustable in direction B ... you'll get the picture - If it doesn't then just bend or file it so it can be moved ... fixed it ? great ! >> welcome to Team Bolex Home Fix it Shop ! other than that it might just need its once every 30 year internal lubrication service.
  8. cool, you have the best 12.5-100 - you can use the aspheron knob without the aspheron lens as a extended focus range thingy, meaning you in essence have a macro lens there also - it achieves this by moving the backfocus so any zooms you make in this mode will move the plane of focus also, which is not what usually happens with zooms but can with proper (fiddly) planning make some ordinarily tricky shots very easy (pulling focus on macro zooms, ouch!) And of course you can fork out a trillion dollars on ebay for the aspheron to get a 6.5mm - woo! The preset iris version which you dont have anyhoo is a kind of spring loaded iris function like you find on many stills SLR lenses, you compose and focus with the iris open, so you get full brightness on your ground glass and can get a better idea of exactly where the plane of focus is. When you take the shot it springs down shut to the setting - f16, f4 whatever ... It is different from the preset macro-switar primes however - they aint as fancy in terms of that functionality, they dont spring into place, but you can blindly (as in not take your eye away from the finder) move them to a preset aperture, which still makes things much easier - they sure are nice glass also RX issue, have a read here: http://www.apecity.com/manuals/bolex_lense...6mm_cameras.pdf Its a proper description from Bolex themselves on the issue... about %40~50 of the other info you will find is incorrect, but is instead what most peoples intuition tells them to expect is the case - it does however mean that any footage shot with this intuition will be overexposed ... So that explains what the 'RX' is all about - for proper exposure have a search here in the forums, it been discussed quite a bit. Oh, and if you want to swap your lens for the power zoom PTL version (with aspheron knob, auto-iris (yip, auto iris) and perfect glass also) - I'm keen ;)
  9. The Tobin sync units that work with the EBM have been released again in a dashing black case now (no more grey), search for them on ebay...
  10. oooh, yeh cool - they are nice huh - but which one ? the preset iris version - the PTL/power zoom - or the standard with Aspheron option ?
  11. The Bolex Pro has sound-sync options as it is quieter - but the EBM can be stripped down of all its accessories and fit into some small spaces if need be, the EBM can also fit all the really nice Macro-Switar preset lenses - hello music videos ... What are you using it for ?
  12. The SBM is also easier to convert to super16 - no compromises or (much) awkward machining to do ;) Along with the presets already mentioned I'd spring for a 75mm Macro-Switar also ... The 12.5-100 comes in two flavors - get the iris-preset model if super16 is a consideration.
  13. 30,000' 7276 Plus X 30,000' 7374 and a heap load more of odd's and ends all in the fridge the top two still develop fine after at least 20 years - going to try and keep it until its a rarity ;) - shot on plus X neg ...
  14. I used the preset Switars - 10mm 26mm 75mm 150mm and the PTL Zoom for some odd focal length requirements
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