Sir Alvin Ekarma

Has anyone ever tried using one of these? It's a c-mount adaptor for a Pentax M42 mount. Kinda intriguing. http://www.borg-telescopes.co.uk/shop/7527.html

For Bolexes, don't forget JK camera http://www.jkcamera.com/ or Dieter at ProCam http://www.bolex-usa.com/

Thanks for the info!

Just wanted to give a heads up for anybody interested in putting together a video assist for their Bolex (or K3 even). There's an Ebay store that sells nice, fast (.08 lux/f 1.2) CCTV lenses for $60 http://cgi.ebay.com/COLOR-PROFESSIONAL-SEC...oQQcmdZViewItem . You'd need to get your own manual focus/manual iris 8mm c-mount lens (like $25 on Ebay) and some other knick-knacks (BNC to RCA adapter, some conduit clamp, various screws) and you're good to go pretty much . I haven't put mine through its paces but it seems to work just fine. Check it out here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dodgejackson/...57594198988966/ Even if you include the 12V CCTV battery I have on order, this set up just tops out a little over a C-note. And since I'm using my miniDV camera as a monitor, I can even have playback of a take which is nice.

Does anyone know why this is exactly?

The Angenieux 10mm does not cover Super 16...

Thanks for the info!

Does the "M1" designation on an Angenieux prime lens mean anything?

Thanx for the info!

Does anybody which of the Krasnogorsk prime lenses i.e. Vega, Mir, for bayonet K-3s are Super 16 safe?

Oh yeah, then go nuts. For the budget I'm researching, it's going to have to be cuts-only and in-camera. Regarding guns, we'll probably end up getting some japanese MSG model guns to use since they have muzzle flash, smoke, and shell ejection.

I suggest rethinking any fx/image manipulation into things that can be done in-camera or through special processing i.e. bleach bypass, etc. If you want to crazy w/opticals, the costs are going to baloon right up.

The price was an issue for me so that's why I went w/ an S16 bolex instead. That said, for a pin-registered, PL mount, tricked out S16 camera the price I was quoted was really, REALLY damn good.

To clarify, you'd bring them your kinor and they'd give you one of their upgraded, S16 ones for x amount. Also, this was a while ago so I don't know if the offer would still be good.

I checked my email arkive and what they offered was to take my Kinor (if I had one at the time) and trade it for one of theirs. I'm more of a guerilla fillmmaker so I didn't get into the upgrade specifics. However, here are some pix of one of their upgraded Kinors. http://www.flickr.com/photos/59375217@N00/...57594144863212/

I've been doing research for a feature and I've determined the most economical way to do HD on a low budget (presuming already that you have the 16/S16 equipment already) would be to shoot film, cut on SD video, matchback the negative, and telecine an interpositive. I used some ball park numbers from Colorlab www.colorlab.com and it looks to me that's the best way to go about it siince puttiing together a home PC HD setup or having everything xtrnsferred to HD w/ a future online would be muy expensive. Plus you'd be ready for a 35mm blow up if the chance ever happened. I ran this scenario by Victory studios in Seattle and they gave it a thumbs up if that's worth anything to you.

When I was doing research, I found that slow motion inc http://www.slowmotioninc.com/index.html in Burbank, CA can overhaul, modernize and upgrade a Kinor to Super 16 for a really great price even compared to getting a used Arri set up.

Peleng works for 16mm. It doesn't fish-eye like it does in 35mm; it's just reaally wide.

This is an old thread, but I was just following up. Did anybody determine whether the lens was S16 safe or not? I did a search of the forum and didn't turn anything up.

FYI: Du-all camera modifies viewfinders of S16 K3s that and the price is verrry reasonable.

I dropped a line to Chambless and they said TV lenses didn't need to be adjusted if used with an EBM. And if anybody should know, I guess it would be them...

Thanks for the info. I was buying a lens from a fella on Ebay and he was the first person I've communicated to say that TV lenses didn't need to be adjusted. (I guess he's half right if you don't count a bolex). Anyway, I got a computar lens for cheep and I'll probably have JK camera adjust it sometime.

I just want to double check: if you get a c-mount TV lens, it needs to be recollimated if you want to use it with a film camera i.e. Bolex, right?

Go here for more info on the flaring. It's in regards to 35mm SLRs but it still applies. http://www.pauck.de/marco/photo/stuff/pele...ng_fisheye.html Re: ND filters. You'd probably have to make a DIY matteboxe and slip something in but I've never tried it.

That is correct. Still, it's verrry wide angle and you get the distortion that comes with that. What you don't hear from anybody for some reason is that it's incredibly prone to flare and not normal flare--- invisible flare that isn't apparent when you're shooting. Basically if light is comig from the tops or side, it will hit the outer edge of the curved lens that protrudes out; when projected/telecined, the flare that it will cause will appear to be a kind of edge fog but it isn't. You need to jerry rig a matte box or use a french flag to keep things under control. The same applies to the Zenitar 16mm lens as well. Still, these caveats aside, it's a solid lens at a good price (even with the agonizingly slow f-stop).