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Kip Kubin

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Posts posted by Kip Kubin

  1. A friend just gave me three Spectra Color Contrast and Panchromatic

    Viewing Filters.

     

    From their website I gather

     

    One is dark and looks like an ND.09 - They say that is to judge the films compression of light values and to check hot spots and shadow detail @250 ASA and up

     

    One is lighter... that is to check a situation that is @ASA250 and below.

     

    One is Panchromatic and has a yellow cast to check if tonal values will blend together for black and white.

     

     

     

    So are these used much?

     

    I do see the benefit of the Panchromatic filter for quick reference to color combinations and contrast as far as black and white photography goes.... how about the others?

     

    Any help and thought on their use would be appreciated.

  2. I'll add a few things

     

    I was told o always enter frame with the sticks open until you actually slated the take.... this way it's visually clear to the editor when a slate has or will happen.

     

    On a P2 shoot the slate should be in frame before the camera in in record.. this way the editor has the slate at the top of each clip for ease of log and transfer of the clip.

     

    Someone said it earlier.. get out of the shot ASAP.

     

    Verbally call every shot. I've gotten thank you calls from editors because some piece of sound equiptment failed and they had to line audio to each take manually... just saying "mark" helps no one. "Scene 5 Take 2" makes things easy.

     

    Also, check with the script supervisor on how they want to mark the slate... it's their notes that mater... those notes are what the editor goes by.

     

    Always wait for the DP to ask for the slate.. he/she may want to check the frame, look at lights. In my world it's... roll sound.. "speed" ... slate in... that's when my job begins

  3. Kip,

     

    Interesting thing about that lens adapter in the package.

     

    7.jpg

     

    It is a rather rare ARRI bayonet to PL mount adapter made by ARRI themselves, and it was designed specifically to work with the Arriflex 16SR3 and the Zeiss Super Speed MkI lenses Jason is also selling. With that adapter on the SR3, you can push a little button on the outside of the camera and it will release the bayonet mount lens from the PL adapter, while the whole assembly is still in the camera, (no need to take the lens and PL adapter out of the camera, separate the lens from the adapter, put another lens into the adapter, and then put the whole assembly back in the camera). So that adapter makes the SR3 a bayonet mount camera. Other PL adapters won't work like that and won't interface with the SR3 camera.

     

    Just another bit of useless ARRI trivia floating around in the gray matter.

     

    Best,

    -Tim

     

    It looked like a Les Bosher creation to me as I hadn't seen an Arri adapter like that ever.... thanks for the education

  4. I would encourage you to leave it up. That way folks will know how to actually purchase the camera if they are interested and will know which listings are frauds.

     

    Best,

    -Tim

     

     

    I asked the Jason (the ebay seller) seller a question via email about the lens adapter in the package and received an answer that, most likely, only an Aaton owner would know so I was convinced it was no scam. Also, his email did confirm that he was in Kingston NY. It's a great package and from my computer seems very legit.

  5. Are you on mac os 10.6?

     

    If so there is a problem with some external devices and os 10.6...if you upgraded try going back to 10.5

     

     

     

     

     

    Welcome to Cinematography.com, Patrick.

     

    You should consider moving this thread to the Editor's Corner subtopic at the bottom of the forum index, as this seems like more of a post problem. With that said, what NLE are you running / what version? You said you have an AG-DVX, are you speaking of the DVX100A or B?

  6. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=140290530000

     

    I'm selling my Bolex EL. Link above is to the ebay sale.

     

    If there are no bids I'll except offers from members of this forum and end the auction early.

     

    The camera works flawlessly.

     

    I'm selling to raise cash to complete a set of lenses I've started buying.

     

    PM me any offers or questions you may have.

     

    CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY

    CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY

    CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY

    CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY

     

     

     

    I'm also selling an 18mm Cooke Speed Panchro as well if your interested

  7. Hello Cinematographers.

     

    I'm wanting to buy a lens for a rapidly approaching project.

     

    I have a question for all of you first.

     

    What should I expect to pay for an early 70's Russian Square Front Anamorphic Lens? Preferably a 35mm

     

    Are there any Zooms I should be looking at?

     

    I know these lenses have a "look" and may not cut well with other more current lenses but I'm in charge and don't really care about that as much as I'm actually going for an early 70's Russian Lens look.

     

    RAF Camera has this 50mm for around $500 euro... but their sold out.

     

    http://rafcamera.com/lomo-square-front-ana...2dfb9f21dc9ed65

     

     

    Does anyone have a PL mount square front anamorphic lens that they are not happy with... or just don't use enough and are willing to part with?

     

    Thanks

     

    Kip Kubin

     

    Please post any replies as to the going rate for these lenses in this thread and email any potential sales to

     

    arp2600@bellsouth.net

  8. At the same aperture you will get darker blacks and better, or lets say richer, color rendering with primes over the Nikons... that's fairly obvious, I think because you are using the lens for the purpose it was intended.

     

    I've done tests with my Bolex and with 35mm Lens adapters using Nikkons and Cookes.

    http://www.dvxuser6.com/uploaded/6474/1199160779.jpg

     

    Not exactly what your asking but you can spot the difference fairly quickly between the lenses.

     

    My suggestion is to find out what lens adapters are made or can be made and look into building your set a lens or two at a time with 16mm primes.

     

    I did that with a small set of Cookes for my Bolex and I couldn't be happier with the results... my Cookes were only a few hundred more than Nikkons. Just took a while to build as I was hunting for them on Ebay\

     

    I've also used 35mm and 16mm Cookes on my Bolex for the same project and the footage and images cut just fine.

     

    I hope that helps you.

  9. FAF of San Francisco is selling off all their rental facility equipment. Most everything was sold this morning, but there are still plenty of odds & ends, some Super 8 cams and a few 16mm cameras still available:

     

    Arri SR (bayo) - $4k

    Arri S - $2k

    CP16R - $1.5k and $1k

    Eclair NPR - $1.5k

     

    O'Connor 50 head with standard & baby legs - $500

     

    Lots of prime lenses available in various mounts, subpar, but at good prices.

     

    Any links to what's left? Couldn't find anything out on their website.

  10. People have found that the letus loses very little light and is very good. I personally use the SGpro V3 adapter with nikon still lenses and have good success. there is a option mount PL-mount or OCT-13 lenses on the adapter. Not to mention they both offer flip so the image is right side up. You can get more detail from other forums like DVinfo.net or Dvxuser.com. for more information.

     

    Image is softened when the adapter is added... using an HVX200 you can crank up the detail level and fiddle with the detail coring to compensate.

     

    Also, you'll start seeing the ground glass pattern around f5.6 on the attached lens.

     

    That being said, I never take mine off... I love the thing! If you have a video camera without a detachable lens the attachment can work wonders

     

    Hope that helps

     

    Kip

  11. For a 24 fps base:

     

    24 / n

    n = frames per second you want to shoot

     

    So if you want to shoot at 32fps = 24/32 = .75 or 75% -> so you'll want to reduce the length (speed up) of your music to 75% is real time length. So if you have a 4 minute song (240 seconds), you'll want to reduce (or speed up) the song to 3 minutes (or 180 seconds). 240x.75=180

     

    Thank you

  12. Hi-

     

    I was wondering if someone could answer a ? i have about a 400 ft magazine to use with a bolex ebm. Do I need to have the mm motor for it to work, or will it do fine without it using the built in electric motor on the camera. That way all I'd need to purchase to use 400' reels is the magazine? I appreciate the help, thanks :)

    jon

     

    All bolex magazines use an external motor to drive the film stock. Both motors (Cam and Mag) use the camera's battery not the camera's motor.

     

    You can find the motors fairly cheep on ebay to use or get spairs. Also I should point out that the motors are detachable so If you just have one motor it can be switched to whatever magazine you are loading.

     

    Hope that helps

     

    Kip

  13. post-12356-1184117759_thumb.jpg

    Hi,

    The only C-mount adapter I have found for a Bolex bayonet lens does not seem to work on the Poe vario switar. Does anyone know why, and if there is an adaptor available to fit the bayonet Poe onto a C-mount camera or if it is a possible conversion?

    Regards,

    Marc.

     

    I'll just take a stab at your question... the Bayo to C mount adapter's threded end goes into the camera first. This is how the C mount lens focal length is preserved.

     

    Looking at what I think is the lens you are talking about online shows an end that's relitively flat and would not be able to thread onto a properly mounted Bayo to C mount adapter.

     

    I've attached a photo of a Bolex Bayonet to c mount adapter in a Bolex Bayonet mount... that might help answer your question.

     

    Sorry I could only help out with the "why" of your question.

     

    Kip

  14. Hey guys,

    A very kind and gracious young women was nice enough to help me out with a box of bolex accessories, but turns out my bolex is in need of repair and I will probably end up getting rid of it and stickin with my Arri S, so if anyone is interested in these parts let me know!

     

    1) Silver Paillard Bolex Case for an Rex 5, (no camera, just case)

    2) 400' mag

    3) MST motor in original box #6522 Crystal sync

    4) MM Mag motor

    5)Leather Barney for Bolex

    6)Matte box and rods

    7) UNImotor B #22459

    8)Paillard bolex voltage regulator

    9)batteries "type BX-55.12" with sync input

    10)Very nice pistol grip

    11)very nice "D8L" pistol grip, in original box

     

    All this stuff looks in very nice condition, but I haven't tested it yet, I will soon.

    Let me know if anyone is interested. pics on request.

    Will also consider trade for Arri S accessories, even possible higher end Super 8 stuff.

     

    Thanks

     

    Matt Box and Rods - Do they come with the base plate?... how do they attach to the camera? How much?

    Mag and Motor - How much?

    Barney - might need to see a photo... will it fit an EL?

     

    You can email pr send me a PM.

     

    Kip Kubin

  15. Normally I would suggest buying them from Chambless but he's closed shop all month for the holiday. I do have an extra set I can sell you. I'm getting a CP-16R and don't need to use the magazine capacity of my Bolexes. I can do fine with the other set I have.

     

    Thanks

     

    Email sent

     

    I'll contact Chambless about some spares as they appear to be something that is easily lost.

     

    Kip

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