Jump to content

didier Frateur

Basic Member
  • Posts

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by didier Frateur

  1. I will never ever point a laser into a persons face! The laser is fine for measuring references around an actor/actress. If you have to measure on the person itself, take a part that you estimate being at the same distance as the eyes. This can be an arm, shoulder or another bodypart. If you know this part is a few inches further/closer than the eyes, just hold your laser further/closer from the filmplane.. But never point into a face.
  2. I worked on a feature in Svalbard, winter during two months. Temperatures were between -5 and -35°C. We had this box, insulated on the inside, made for us. Inside we kept three NEW batteries, charged overnight at room-temperature within the open box, so they would generate their own warmth, we closed the box in the morning, and never had to use more than two batteries for a full day shooting. 7 extra batteries and the heating system we took with us were never used..
  3. I used a Leica Disto Classic for many years, but half a year ago it just stopped functioning. By that time the plastics showed cracks and the batterycover broke down. Now I bought the Hilti PD 32 and I'm very pleased with it: it's feels more robust, is much faster, smaller, uses less batteries, measures on black surfaces, and has an incorporated viewfinder (which is not a ?250,- option like the Disto) The Bosch wasn't an option: it only reads meters, no foot+inches..
  4. Don't use a brush, nor the tooth pick. Just roll one sheet of lens cleaning paper, tear it into two parts, moisten the 'cut' soft part with lens cleaning fluid and use that as a brush. Start in the middle of the lens and gently move it slowly towards the edge, making circles. The dust should stick to the paper, or be removed towards the side. You can repeat this as many times as necessary, using a new piece. Don't be affraid to use some pressure if necessary, lenses and coatings are quite hard, unless you have to deal with sand or similar dirt. In that case you will have to blow them away first with a small and controlled amount of air. To remove eventual dry marks of the lens cleaning fluid, you can use a new piece of chamois leather, or another clean, soft cloth (for cleaning glasses) making the same circular movements. Your lenses should come out like new, unless they were scratched before, or if coatings were affected by acid marks like fingerprints..
  5. they do exist: one for the 535 and another one for 535B. I do have a copy from each, but not in pdf, only printed versions. maybe one day i 'll have the time to scan them..? The originals came from Arri rental in Munich.
  6. Mainly the cameratop. The original 535 had a fixed viewfinder (which could be adjusted in more directions than the B) and carrying handle (containing the timecode battery). There was also a full camera control and readout on the right side. Later they brought out the 535B, without this controls, with manual shutter, and a redesigned viewfinder system, that could easily be switched for a 100% videotop for steadicam and remote head use. A the same time they simplified the viewfinder (less movements, and no longer an anamorphic desqueeser) and took a good look at the modular handlesystem of the Moviecam compact. Now you can also get a 535 "AB" which is the original 535 with the B's viewfinder and handle system, but still an electronic shutter and right side controls.
  7. Mainly the cameratop. The original 535 had a fixed viewfinder (which could be adjusted in more directions than the B) and carrying handle (containing the timecode battery). There was also a full camera control and readout on the right side. Later they brought out the 535B, without this controls, with manual shutter, and a redesigned viewfinder system, that could easily be switched for a 100% videotop for steadicam and remote head use. A the same time they simplified the viewfinder (less movements, and no longer an anamorphic desqueeser) and took a good look at the modular handlesystem of the Moviecam compact. Now you can also get a 535 "AB" which is the original 535 with the B's viewfinder and handle system, but still an electronic shutter and right side controls.
  8. I would like to add one thing: as a focus puller, you are as much a camera operator as the one who aims the camera itself. Both have to know/decide where the attention of the frame will be, where the viewer in front of the big screen will look at. And both have to work in sync with each other. Especially when the actor(s) start improvising..
  9. It looks that I'm the only one who had problems with those "day"-scenes. In order to expose for the clouds in the sky (which were sometimes still washed out), I was always wondering if the scene was supposed day or day-for-night :blink: I read in the american cinematographer they did choose for the look of people against the sky, and that 'with HD it popped of the screen'. It does indeed: clouds were clipped, and the rest of the scene seriously underexposed.. But hey, no worry, with HD you can see deep into shadow areas.. :D
×
×
  • Create New...