zrszach

It should be right above the shutter?but I wouldn?t know on a 16bl. :unsure:

haha :D i wouldnt rule out ebay tho...as long as you really know what ur getting.

a little searching and wha-la http://www.geocities.com/russiancamera/16m...film-manual.htm hope this helps :)

talk to http://www.rgbcolorlab.com/

"Also, how does the Aaton 35-3 stack up beside something like a BL3 or a Kinor 35H?" the aaton 35-3 runs at about 30 dba

i think you can pick body up for about $800

One good book is cinematography by Blain Brown.

I too was excited to read about look manager. I didn?t know you had to calibrate the camera though. ;) I have a Nikon d70 that I could use if it is correctable. It seems like it would be a dream to work with. Any info?

Since when have the studios made sense? :rolleyes:

it was shot on 35mm with panavision cameras.

I read on some site that the kinor 35h has to be modified to shoot Kodak film. :huh: what does this mean?

i loved this one and i am going to buy it. "but it has been a long time since I didn't notice cinematography the first time watching a film because I was laughing so hard." ya i felt like a normal audience member. NOT THINKING :D

I would think you could take a reflective reading off a gray card and then take an incandescent reading and match the spot reading to the incandescent. Theoretically it should work since a spot reading of a gray card in a scene is the same as a incandescent reading in that same scene. Hope this helps. -Zach

Ok, thats good. thanks for all the help

We could use another David Mullen. Call the ASC and have them send one. :D Seriously now I too would like to change to my real name. I have learned so much from this forum and I am very grateful for it. Thanks Tim. And HAPPY HOLIDAYS

Another problem I have is aside from having the actors painted white how can I keep my flesh tones from being to red. And keep with the low-key candle light look. I want it to look like a real candle lit scene like in the film Barry Lyndon which has some very real looking candle light.

What would be a better way to achieve the same end?

so would it be ok to push the 7218 in the dark interiors? I did think of using 7229. But i also want to use my 500T in some daylight scenes. in wich i would like to have more contrast. Would it be better to just get 7229 also for the dark scenes? As far as lighting, i would like to keep it as real as possible. but i will most likely have to ad some light to raise the exposure.

I see they are for rent on the CSC web site for $800 per day. Is this camera just a smaller 435 as far as features? If you have used one, how was it?

I want to know if I could shoot 35mm film scan it to HD and use an AJ-HD1200A deck to send it to my computer for editing. Will this work? What kind of quality will I end up with on the DVD? What are the downsides of this process?

35-40 grand per year? :blink: wow maybe not.

I don?t know if any of you saw Man On Fire but all the camera movement in that film started to annoy me. You move the camera with intention of bringing people into the action but what you actually do sometimes is to take them out when they start thinking about all this movement. But if you are going to move the camera a lot, have a reason for it, if you don?t you risk it looking like a home video. So that?s my thought, unless you want it to look like a home video. :)

I am looking for a good film stock to use for some very dark candle lit interiors. I am considering using 7218 for this. Would this work OK? I am also trying to decide what stock to use for my exterior shots. I would like to use some tungsten-balanced film uncorrected. I am wanting a very blue, cold look for my exteriors. I?m thinking of using 7212 for this. Any suggestions? Also will these two films cut together ok.

anyone know anything about this school? Like prices or the quality of teaching.

I have an Interfit reflector but I didn?t think they made lights. All my lights are old Smith-Victors and White Lightnings. You should look at some, they seem to work good. :) As far as your other problem, I take it you want a shallow DoF and higher shutter speed without using a high asa/iso film. And you also don?t want to add to the overall light. Is that right? Well, something has to give ether the ISO the shutter speed or the light levels. ;) You can't have it all. :(