Mark A. Rapp

Haha! :mellow: Doesn't work like that, does it? I suppose I'm going to have to re-read about hooking up a convoluted circuit and buy a bunch of connectors. Nothin's easy, is it?

I have a Blackmagic 2.5K Cinema Camera. I want to connect a PC as a monitor, just for focus while shooting outside. The PC has a Thunderbolt and USB 3 ports. Can I just plug in from the camera via Thunderbolt, or will I need a certain program, or hardware to do it? I'm asking about the simplest, easiest method to do this. I'm not a tech sort of fellow. Thanks!

That's a 16bl port cover. I have one.

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Hi Christian, I just got my K3, so I've been doing a lot of research on the camera. I'd read here that you can push the pin up into the barrel and off-set it a millimeter or two so that the pin rests on the edge of the hole. Tell us if this works, or if you find another solution. Right now I'm only using the stock zoom, but I'm planning on buying some primes.

? Even f you got the camera for $100.00 you'd be paying at least $125 - and that's a conservative figure - for a Super conversion. This is converted already, in addition to the re-centered mount. I should have been more clear, but it would have added to the already voluminous word count. I wasn't asking opinion regarding the price; the price is right.

Bought this one.

Easy, fellas! Not all at once! I know: too much above. I've narrowed it down to two cameras. One has the viewfinder mask removed. The other does not list the viewfinder mask as having been removed, so I'm assuming it is intact. The price difference is negligible. Any opinions?

2 more questions: Will the lens re-centering mod allow full use of the stock zoom all the way down to 17mm? Will the viewfinder view be properly centered as well, regardless of viewable area, i.e., center of lens equal to center of viewfinder?

I'm having a ton of fun shooting with my new Bell & Howell 240 ee. I'm gearing up to buy something like an Arriflex SR2 or 3 for an upcoming feature but in the meantime I'm interested in something small, all about run and gun, and most importantly, with a reflex viewfinder. This has led me to consideration of the affordable Krasnogorsk-3, converted to Super 16, with a re-centered lens. The package (package meaning camera only, apparently) runs about $230.00 USD shipped from Ukraine, sold on ebay. Which brings me to a few questions: Is this a good price for the camera? I have read about flashing and light leaks. Both issues seem to be common, which I assume to be a design flaw. I am not particularly interested in time-lapse photography, or single frame photography with this camera. Is the problem only when employing either of these methods? If I understand it correctly, it can be "cured?" with profuse taping. Is this only for time lapse/animation, or for motion shooting as well? It seems every single video of K-3 footage I see has flashes all over it. Literally. Every single one. Here's what it boils down to: I want to be able to shoot takes for as long as the camera operates on a wind, without having flashes or leaks wreck the take. Is it possible for the camera to do this? Does it require precautions? If so, what steps must I take to insure this? I've read an awful lot on the forum about the K-3. The above issues are addressed, but they don't seem to be geared for the uninitiated. This isn't a criticism, just an observation from an un-initiate, heh. I read through, and feel as though I've walked into a conversation already in progress. I've read that on an S16 converted K-3 the eyepiece cannot provide a faithful image to the new format frame due to prism issues. Would I be better served in keeping the original eyepiece and "dead reckoning" or having the mask removed completely, and completely guessing what my frame will be?

Great answers, fellas. Many thanks. I feel a lot more confident getting out there with my little Bell & Howell 240 ee, minus the ee.

One day I'll look back on all these simple questions with disgust, I know it... Anyway: So I'm shooting outside with tungsten film: 7293. Kodak writes that the EI bumps down from 200 to 125 when using an 85 orange filter. So, I dial the ASA on my Sekonic L-398 light meter to 125 and take a reading to manage the aperture. Do I take open up another 2/3 stop, or is that why I adjusted the EI to begin with? And... is the exposure index synonymous with ASA?

Thank you, Gregg. Of course! I had no idea that the meter assumes a 180° shutter angle. If that was in the manual for the meter, I missed it.

I just picked up a B&H 240 ee. Since I don't have any spare mercury batteries, I'm metering with a Sekonic L-398. Now, I'm not terribly versed in theory, but I do know the basics. Here's my quandary: The camera's shutter speed at 24 fps is 1/65. When I take a reading and index 1/65, it is a different value than the cine scale at 24 fps. Why? Which value should I use to set the aperture? Thanks!

Robert, you are the man! And thanks, Mark. I appreciate the input; If I'd have known more about the camera I wouldn't have fed you bad information. Robert, I've never even heard of that process for shooting, flipping, processing and splitting. Pretty cool. Really cool, actually, except, does anyone still sell sell the film and execute that type of processing? Do you have any idea of the designation of the camera? I'd like to do some research on it.