elpmisdiputs

I would call your nearest ARRI retailer, and ask them if they'd sell you one. They'd most likely have the most accurate drawings

As far as spot metering, you could just set up a grey card on a stand and have the meter pointed at that. But even then the exposure would run all over the place. Plus if the grey card was in shadow and most of the image wasn't it would produce crapy results. My feeling on it is you're right, use the latitude. As far as the 1/32 of a stop thing. I am probably over doing it at that, but incrementing the stops seems by at least 1/16th is the only way I can think of making the smooth transistion through light changes. I'm use Ultraprimes too, so there is enough room between the stops to figure out that kind of increment. Really I have to shoot a test. That's the only way. Thanks for the help.

The technology of the intervolmeter is not a problem at all. The intervolmeter for the 435 has a capping shutter, or actually a tongue that reaches into the gate when not exposing. My problem with this has just been the exposure. If you don't ride the iris, then my problem is it getting too dark at night, since I am exposing throughout the night. My exposure is going to be a T-64 in the day and T-0.5, so 13stops. So, although I don't want to make it look unatural, because the nightime is exposed too bright, I think that I will have to adjust slowly and seemlessly with the sun going down and up. Especially because most of the sunrise and sunset shots are going to be looking at the sun at some point. I did some investigating and with the 435 intervolmeter, you can attach a Pentax light meter that has to have been modified by Norris. That can then plug into the Arri intervolmeter for the 435 and control it. But then again, you'd be riding the iris too much and making look strange. My feeling is to attach a follow focus to the iris with markings for 1/32 of stops and then at dusk and dawn adjust by 1/32 of stops on every exposure.

I am shooting a series of time lapse sequences coming up, and I am trying to figure some things out. I've never shot outdoor timelaspes before. Everything is going to be cityscape shots or shots of particular buildings with the sky also in frame. I am shooting with a 435 and its intervolometer, which is perfect, but I am not sure about exposure. Most of the shots are going to be 24hr periods exposing every 30seconds. Is it a good idea to rack the iris with the light? I mean just subtely, espeically with the runrise and sunset?? I want to keep it natural, so I don't want any iris changes to be noticed obviously. Anyone had any experience with this. Please help/ Thanks

I have used the lens. It's great. Super sharp. It's a T2.2, minimum of 2' and weighs a lot less than the long optimo. I just finished a music video with it and it cut incredibly well with the cooke S4's. I know though that because it is so new it is still very expensive to rent.