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David Auner aac

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Posts posted by David Auner aac

  1. Hi glas 'n' guys!

     

    I initially wanted to wait for the second block of shooting to be done before posting any stills, but alas, there will be more delay. So here we go.

     

    These are stills from the first block of shooting of a short film I photographed in September this year. The film is written and directed by Judith Pumberger. It's a story about a girl who is raped and then seeks revenge by kidnapping the rapist, drugging him and sending him on a wild trip.

     

    boese_spiele_01.jpg

    boese_spiele_02.jpg

    boese_spiele_03.jpg

    boese_spiele_04.jpg

    boese_spiele_05.jpg

    boese_spiele_06.jpg

    boese_spiele_07.jpg

    boese_spiele_08.jpg

     

    Regards, Dave

  2. Hi Matteo!

     

    First of all, congrats. That is very cool!

    Secondly, 23mins to 35mm is going to hurt. A lot. You might try labs in Poland or Czech Republic, maybe Hungary. They might be a little cheaper than the labs in Germany or Austria.

     

    Regards, Dave

     

    PS: Really, they only accept 35mm copies? Wow! That's a statement in today's world!

  3. I think the MIRED shift from 3200K to 5600K is around -67. What's interesting is that the MIRED system seems to suggest that the color temp that is halfway between 3200K and 5600K is around 3700K instead of 4400K like you'd think...

     

    Isn't that because of the reciprocal nature of the MIRED scaled having smaller steps compared to K the higher on the Kelvin scale you go? And isn't the human eye less perceptive to changes in color temperature at higher temperatures? You can rather easily see a difference of 300K when around 3000K, but at 5 or 6000 it's quite hard to notice such a change...

     

    Regards, Dave

  4. So it's hard to believe, but it's been more than 25 years since Sony et al first declared that film shooting and processing would henceforth no longer be required.

     

    Hi Keith,

     

    when my camera tech started his apprenticeship as a film camera technician at the precursor of the SWR in Germany, he was told by many not to do take up that job. They all said that video was just around the corner and would kill of film really quick. Nothing spectacular so far, right? But that was in 1951!!!

     

    Cheers, Dave

  5. I want to know how to crop the EX-1 monitor (by using tape) to get an anamorphic frame. I know I would have to crop the images in post, but what is the easiest way to find the anamorphic dimensions on the Ex-1 LCD screen. It is much easier then I think It would be?

     

    Hi Kyle,

     

    first of all, you can't get an anamorphic frame just a frame with the same aspect ratio ;).

    I'd do it by aiming my EX-1 at some kind of black or whiteboard and mark the edges of the frame on the board. Then calculate how high the 2.4 frame would be at that width. E presto, mark that on the board and tape the LCD accordingly.

     

    Cheers, Dave

  6. The actual GG is in the right place, but could it be something in the viewfinder?

     

    Hi Bryce,

    will have to pass on that one. I have no idea but can only repeat my advice!

    Have that camera checked! A normal CLA without major parts will only run a couple hundred bucks, more than worth it!

     

    Cheers, Dave

  7. Hi I'm live in Italy, and I had to buy a little bit of camera tools, but all of stores that I know are in EE.UU. there is something in Europe? I would want to buy a magliner between other things.

     

    Hi Christian,

     

    ask your local rental houses where they get their stuff. Some may even sell some too! And Filmtools will now ship to the EU.

     

    Regards, David

  8. Ok, I checked the threads, but that's not really what I need. First of all, the cameras will be really small, like the one I linked to above. Secondly, these mounts will be in quite obscure places on the bikes, see above as well. So I'm still looking for ideas!

     

    Cheers, Dave

  9. A simple search will tell you that this has been discussed several times before:

     

    Duh, dang me! For once I forgot to search boards! Thanks Daniel! I'll be gripping the shoot myself, but there is ample time to prepare and I have quite some experience mounting cameras to trains and cars but never before to bikes.

     

    Cheers, Dave

  10. Hi folks,

     

    for an upcoming shoot in Feb next years I'm trying to find good ways to mount small cameras, like this one Sony PC8 to bicycles. Most of the shoot will be shot on bikes, so I really need to do it well, safely and as quickly as possible. I want to be able to mount to a lot of places on the bikes, top tube, seat tube, chain stays, head tube, fork...

     

    So far I have thought of super/mafer clamps, mini cardellinis, and various type of grid/pipe clamps. I will wrap the bike frame with a neoprene like material or rubber to protect it from abrasion. And the cameras will be mounted using either little ball heads or Manfrotto camera brackets. Any one got any other good ideas?

     

    Thanks in advance!

     

    Cheers, Dave

  11. The old Vaseline-on-the-lens trick, maybe? Or added in post?

     

    Maybe Vaseline on a piece clear flat, sliding that in while the camera runs. And the idea of placing light refracting objects close to the lens is pretty cool too. Must be fun to use a garbage bin glass bottle to create FX for a multimillion ad! :D

     

    Cheers, Dave

  12. the Norden bombsight and the german equivalent contained mechanical analog computers.

    Not the ENIAC, but functional. Those weren't the only ones being used.

    It wasn't all the constipated mathematician technique.

     

    In fact, almost every halfway decent anti aircraft gun uses a mechanical analog computer. The cracking of the daily Enigma code was only possible because of the bombs than Alan Turing ad others built at Bletchley Park. Fact is that the human mind is capable of doing very great deeds, with or with mechanical and or electronic help.

     

    Cheers, Dave

  13. Hi everyone!

    I'm a film student and recently bought a K3 and was wondering if anyone knew where to get a cable that connects to the hole on the side for stop motion single frame shots? I asked my cinematography teacher today and he said to ask around online, but I also live in San Francisco so if anyone maybe knew of anywhere around there also?

     

    Hi Amber,

     

    can't check right now, but I seem to remember that the K3 uses a standard photo cable release. You should be able to get that at any decent photo store. Just bring your K3 and see if ti fits.

     

    Cheers, Dave

  14. The only thing I can think of is that the 16mm and the 24mm lenses don't perform well at 2.8, because that is their open aperture. The 50mm performs very well at 2.8, but it's open aperture is 1.2. But what confuses me is the first shot with the 16mm at f2.8 is not soft.

     

    Hi Bryce,

     

    you should really have your camera checked. I seems to me that the shots you describe as soft are not soft because of using Nikon lenses. They seem to be sharp behind the subject (e.g. the lines next to the persons face near the window seem quite sharp). If these shots appeared in focus in the finder my guess is that there's something afoot in your optical path in the camera. It either seems like the FFD is off or the GG isn't where it should. That's my guess.

     

    Regards, Dave

  15. I have a shoot coming up where we need to do a shot that resembles a photograph with a cracked lens. Since I don't want to actually crack a lens I was wondering if anyone has any examples of photos so I can see some of the effects. I don't want to just photoshop in a crack and have it look really fake, so I was wondering if anyone has an actual reference I could use.

     

    Hi Rob,

     

    why not crack a clear filter? Either get a cheap damaged used one or a really cheap glass one.

     

    Cheers, Dave

  16. i need a replacement lid to the film compartment for an ebm , any model of 16mm bolex should fit it i think, anyone got one knocking around they have spare and dont need?

     

    Hi James,

    best you ask a Bolex repair guy. I'm sure they would have one for you... Roger Sharland would be worth a try.

     

    Cheers, Dave

  17. It's also a sign of a cheap lens.

     

    And many older, not so cheap zooms!

     

    Also breathing usually more prominent in still lenses as this doesn't really matter for photography (well sometimes it does, but not as much as in cinematography).

     

    Regards, Dave

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