kevin jackman

its slow but the way i think. nasa did their stills this way with voyager way back when. i remember ebing a kid and seeing these weird soft/sharp images of saturn and thinking how cool and different they were. they fixed a 35mm camera in front of a high end crt and get this...they did it witha super long exposure. the system was set up so the shutter opened and one pixel at a time xposed itself and moved down the line from line to line, top to bottem. apparently it was the best way to get the images. its cool to know. i wouldnt use an lcd screen. i would find a small hd crt.crt's are the ways to go with this one

if you can do it the best way is a frame at a time. the kodak website had some info on shooting crt screens this way and i think exposure per frame was suggested to be 1/30th of a second. this made the image look best apparently

It's been a month. Any news about the progress?

not sure why but i cant send a private message...

heythaks for the info guys. what is caching? as for the 10mm, i have the preset version with the wide angle attatchement and i was told most of them vignette. why the chromatic aberation? i would have thought the lens wourk work properly at least in standard 16. and the 16mm rx lens is sharp right to the edges? wide open, seriously? it would be nice to know all of my presets were really super16 safe...now i just need to find out how to make them work on the eclair!?

does anyone know if it covers super16?

just looking for one for parts or needing repair.

Yes I had bolex email me the thicknesses to let me know they were different. Jean, how do you suggest this could be done? swapping the guts from the ds8 to an h16 to make use of the prism system?

yeah i think the pisms interchange but wanted to know if anybody had a dead bolex so i could scavenge one. i know about the mounting plate needing a look at but didnt mention it because thats the easy part.

hey pepole, I have a bolex ds8 that i want to retrofit with a 16mm prism so i can use 16mm lenses on it. otherwise does anybody know if i could just transplant the h8 bits in a reflex 16mm body? either way, does anybody have a 16mm prism assembly or a reflex 16mm camera with a broken spring for sale?

hey guys, i just saw a zeiss 16mm planar for a really low price, 200 bucks. is this not that great lens? i would have expected it to go more. any opinions, is it a bad lens?

does anybody have a damaged or broken one? i need one for parts. ill consider anything at this point.

hey josh, not a tirade. thanks for your opinion. i dont want you tot hink you shouldnt say anything because i feel a bit of a dufus even considering what im saying. it's just a thought at this point. my friend is a weird sort of guy, self taught machinist that works on lotuses which was self taught, repairs and makes parts to aircraft standards which is overkill, takes apart f series nikon mechanical cameras for service and repair, and the list goes on. he's like the rain man of service and repair. this is the only reason i would ever think of such a thing. i thought ultra16 but didnt like the lack of post facilities. the increase in image quality compared to super16 isn't nearly as good. from the information i gathered it appears that super16 has three times the extra image area compared to ultra16. it makes a big difference in image quality. this sounds bad but the npr's go so cheaply i thought the worst case is i can get another one! the thing that i really anted in my current kit is the tobin motor. mabye if i find a cheap npr ill get rain man to give it a go. once again, thanks for the thoughts and i hope i dont look too stupid.

i did get a quote from bernie and trust him. he is a fabulous guy who is helpfull and is the first stop for me to go regarding a conversion. the cost to super16 as just really high and i think there is too much of a loss in quality to go to ultra16. i think ultra16 is the ay to go ith cameras that cant go super16. people are also used to dealing with super16 in the industry so no issues with telecine etc. i would pay him for a detailed guide on what to do exactly, thats for sure.

did you get my PM?

why not get a roll of the 7285 ds8, cut it, slit it and stick it in a reloadable cart? im sure i remember some weird eastern european reloadable super8 cart

thanks, thats what i was thinking was involved. i guess the rollers need about 2mm taken off. did you do a conversion or know somebody who did?

hey folks, im sure the chance of me getting this info is small but i have to ask. i have an npr that i would like to have converted to super16. i have a friend that is an anal machinist that could probably convert it but he needs to know every detailregarding what parts need work and to what specs. does anybody by chance know all of the specs?

anybody ever use these? are they sharp? what other good or bad characteristics might they have?

typically cine cameras are a 60th of a second if i remember correctly, however the bolex reflex for example is an 80th sue to the prism. i would try to find a manual to find out what your shutter speed is at 24fps. luckily i have a lightmeter that you can dial in the fps , asa and shutter angle. its bloodt amazing. as or your spot meter only use that to figure out what the lattitude of your scene is and to help decide what you want to be bright or dark. incident meters are your friend here. neg is the best for flexability, depends what you want though.

Hey folks, I'm putting up an ad for a friend that pretty busy. He is sellling an Arriflex M body with magazine, matte box and variable speed motor. There is a case for it but it was designed for the camera. He is wanting $450 usd. The camera is in good condition and doesn't show much use. Write for more details and photos. Thanks.

see guys, buy answering the questions you are encouraging the behaviour

yeah, id really like to see this unit be adaptable on different cameras, that and take a milliframe controler, oh yeah and not cost a smalll moon in price!

i would say talk to bernie if in the usa. big coin though on this camera i would think