Rohan Dadswell

I have a SI-2K but can't help without a proper question & info on your issue.

Convert your old Sony Betacam to a Hyper 35 - 5DmII in a Betacam body http://www.electricfilms.net.au/hyper35conversions.htm

Congrats John - well done Good on you for trying something different (anamorphic adapter) and pulling it off with great looking shots.

If the Photoflex boxes are Lightdomes they are only for strobes. The Silverdomes & Cinedomes are made for hot lights and work well. The Chimera softboxes seem to be tougher but if you're not hiring them out and you look after your gear this isn't an issue. Chimera also offer different levels of front diffusion - I've got a couple of 1/2 strength Chimera screens that I use on my Photoflex Silverdomes.

I often shoot with +3 & +6db (as well as -3 & 0db) - I've not seen any increase in noise with these settings. +9db has a small amount of noise but nothing too objectionable, I would say less than my broadcast cameras of a couple of years ago. +12db has visible noise - I wouldn't use it unless I really had no other way of getting the shot. Remember that because you are shooting RAW there is a lot of information captured in the dark areas that can be 'graded up' later so use the higher gain settings sparingly. When shooting in low light situ ations I find it very useful to turn off the .Look (touch the screen center right) so you can see the RAW and have a better idea of what you are capturing. The one thing you MUST do when using the SI-2K (& especially in dark situations) is black balance, otherwise your image will have a lot of 'fixed pattern noise' which is impossible to get rid of. I now try to do this every half hour or so when shooting as temperature changes can effect the noise levels (usually blue channel) in the blacks.

Having to buy the codec to edit SI-2K footage has been one of the big stumbling blocks for the camera - and will probably continue to be so. As I understand it you can buy Neo4K for US$1,000 which will allow you to edit your 2K footage but doesn't have some of the effects, transitions and other extras of Prospect4K. You could shoot in 1920x 1080 and use the HD version. You could also used the two week trial version and transfer all you footage in after effects to another format but you loose all the advantage and ease of editing with the small RAW files with the colour metadata & .look files (& Cineform's new First Light for a pre grade) The Cineform guys often hang out at http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/cineform-software-showcase/ it might be worth asking them direct.

I haven't had a chance to test the PL Cine lens adapter yet but as far as lenses go - a 50mm lens is a 50mm lens. (a 25mm is a 25mm, a 100mm is a 100mm etc.) A 50mm lens designed for 35mm will give you the same field of view & the same depth of field as a lens designed for 16mm cameras when used on the same camera. The differences come from when the field of view of a 50mm lens on a 35mm camera is compared to the same lens on a 16mm camera. So you shouldn't have to change any calculations for your framing or DoF - just use 16mm camera settings

The Optar Illuminas also have a 8mm (8,9.5, 12, 16, 25 & 50) - all T1.3 I have used them on the Aanton A Min and SI-2K and have been quite happy with the results.

and if you miss the shops the first time you can turn around for a second try - now that's what I call planning. Hi John, Yes there is a SI-2K in the ACT - sitting in my shed with a set of Optar Illumina lenses and a few Nikons for telephoto shots. I've had the Mini for a bit over a year - SI sent me the full body about 6 months ago.

Yes John, Canberra - it's the heart of our nation ! (or so they tell me) I'm impressed with the results. I was expecting more distortion and softening - I might have to get one of these to have a play with. I've done a couple of shorts with the SI cropping to scope but this does give a different feel to the shots. What stop were you shooting at?

very cool JB, Love to hear how the Panasonic anamorphic adaptor measures up compared to the SI-2Ks native 'scope of 2048x856. Does the extra resolution outway the extra glass on the front? Are you limited to certain size lenes or will the adaptor work with wide angle and telephoto? Apart from having to drag cables was there any other reason for using the full SI-2K instead of the Mini on the steadicam? cheers Rohan

When this discussion/argument comes up I point out all the extra gear that comes with owner operators. I have a van full of bit & pieces that aren't invoiced for but are there on the job. - C-stands, shot bags, clamps, chairs, hi-hat, cine saddle, blacks, reflectors & stands, extension cables,sun screen, fly spray extra lights etc. As well as stuff like a microdilly & mini-jib that I do charge for and are 'on standby' in the van for when the producer suddenly realizes he can't live with out them. If they want to get their gear from a rental house, get a quote for every bit of kit that you could use on a shoot and then see how good a four day week rate is compared to an owner operator that comes with all the stuff producers never think of. Yes I do 'do deals' on longer jobs bit it has to be reasonable.

The contrast filters bleed light into the dark areas of the shot so the whole picture has less contrast which make it easier for video chips to record. Good for very bright daytime shots, night/dark shots tend to go milky as the black levels are lifted. The black pro mist will be your friend for dark/night type shots but stick with the lower strengths 1/4 or 1/2

Also make sure that you are shooting at quality 3 or 4. Q1 & 2 will be softer.

Make sure that the lens is colomated to the SI-2K. When I first got mine I borrowed a few lenses off a mates Aaton and they all looked a bit soft. Turns out that while both the camera's mounts were within specs they were slightly different and this caused some softness. I think with a zoom this would be even more of a problem. Yes, the SI-2K does not have the 'video sharpness' of other HD cameras but you can always dial in detail sharpness in post if you like that look - but that wont help if the lens is soft. Are you judging the soft look on the camera monitor/viewfinder or in post at full rez?