S8 Booster

youll find anything you need to know about this at the norwegian based s8 site inkl images of cart notching: http://filmshooting.com/scripts/forum/view...9ff147d4b4b2ef7 search the forum. one clue exposing Vision 200T & Nikon R10

registration card from shhot8:

Filmshooting.com: Tobin vs Moviestuff equipment - which is best???

great camera when properly serviced but the standard lenses arent quite good at wide open. very under rated camera, beware of worn rechargeable batteries, usually expencivee replacement.

youll gonna end up with a canon in the end santos.... even though you canadian is....

santo knows nothing about cams n filmmasking and definately noit the superior specs n superior performance of the canons. first he was into the zeisses and when they worked poop he turned to lecinas (read toys) and when they didnt pay off he - due to my recommendations turn to the somewhat beteer like beaulieus - except for the poop availble nunderdog to canon lenses to whats your next retreatment el-insano?

well, alex, looking at perfs through a microscope is a good validator as well as professional researsh from authorities around. i can also asure you that even a professionally serviced cam may not really hold the spec seeing the awesome complexity of cams like canons 814/1014 xlss and the huge amount of tools and reference clearance measuring tools/jigs and spacers required to measure spec tolerances an where do you get new spares to bring it back on spec these days? you dont just make those parts in your toolshed. mr pytlak, no reason to doubt your statement and i am glad to know that kodak specs are better than standard smpte, but would be interesting if you can conform that it is a bigger challenge to perf a 0.10mm polyester base vs arox 0.150 mm acetate base as the polyester still is still much stronger. ref agfa problems of the past. shoot

i know, its just that the 8mm (super) perfs are very small and precission is critical and we all know that agfa didnt make it with polyester in the past while fuji did so the question is if kodak is as good as fuji in this context. it may well be but it seems to be a challenge. other than that the new kodapak carts (64T) seems to have obtained much better - to me acceptable image stability off shelf.

not the kodak film material - its ok - but the kodapak cartridge no pp vs fuji cart and an in cam pp but possbly also superior fuji perfing for super 8mm format film. as of yet is seems, like only fuji was capable of perfing 0.10mm thick polyester base film to perfection. and for us proj buffs; fuji strill add a sounstrack/stripe on the film whilde processing. shoot

yep, the poorest formats allways wins in the end, the vhs, pcs - the list is really endless. time to turn fuji 16 next.

although i dont dispute you or believe you make erratic judgement i find it hard to believe that the 64t is worse than the old 160 although i was quite comfortable with it. i do believe however, that you may have been extremely unlucky with either the particular film material or processing. my as of yet limited experience with the 64 shows nothing like those artifacts you describe. the images posted below are captured of a dv tape from a totally crap diy off screen transfer so they are no proper reference, the reason for posting them is that the added e125 - now processed in some quasi e6 process is much worse than it used to be - much softer and less boquet still it holds up against the old 160 in my view and as you hopefully can see - the 64t is quite a bit better. the bw image is added for some sort of a reference for the transfer "tech", plusx at 100. proper transfer will follow later. all images are shot with 85b filter incl the plusx. -1/3 00 +1/3 just add the e125 for a sort of reference. not satisfied with the e6 processing. gone less "sharp". exposed t 80. for reference of transfer tech only - exactly the same as above - plusx at 00. s8hôôt

It seems like your cam is a Super8 cam: http://www.kolumbus.fi/puistot/k.htm General difference: Super8 = a cartridge load system Regular8 = a reel load system cant miss the difference. Super8 Cartridge: http://www.mondofoto.com/cameras/Kodak_m8.jpg s8hôôt

the plusX cart is correctly notched for 100(D) so if your cam is designed according to spec the film speed is set to 100D in auto mode. the cart slot for film speed is the same as for a 160/100 tungsten cart but when the filter notch is none the film speed is set to 100(D) and the built in 85 filter is disabled. the example below is describing how the vision2 200T cart from kodak is incorrectly notched for 100(D) rather than 160(D)/100(D). the difference is the filter notch. everything else is identical. [for ref: the same filter notch error goes for the 500T cart disabling the built in 85 filter thus setting it to 250(D) - IF your camera is correctly designed - for those cams which can read those speeds] sum: your cam should have no problem to read the plusX cart correctly in daylight but should be tuned a bit for tungsten shoot (EI 80) (+1/3 stop should do). check if your cam has a exposure compensation dial. will easily take care of this. NOTE: FOR THE PLUS X THERE SHOULD BE NO OPEN FILTER NOTCH. DO NOT OPEN IT. THIS INFORMATION VALID FOR THE VISION2 200T & 500T CARTRIDGES - ONLY SHOWN HERE TO VISUALIZE THE PRINCIPLE OF OPERATION AND THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE 160T/100D CART AND PURE 100D CART (PLUX) SETTING.: for reference: from previous posts on the V200T cart notch error: s8hôôt

you may try to verify the built in 85 filter control vs cart notching as seen below. this info is for the 200t cart - how to allow use of the built in 85 filter as the 200t cart is incorrectly notched from kodak. the principle for 85 filter control is the same for any cart if your camera is fully compliant to to the standard. s8hôôt

did you use an external 85b filter for daylight shooting. if not the film is set to 100D with no filtering and it wont help but the problem you describe seem to be a transfer and/or processing problem. this is why the 200t gets improper setting in the camera but it will be perfect with an external 85b filter. the cartridge is normally incorrectly notched from Kodak so the built in 85 filter is disabled. s8hôôt

havent checked these data up against the calcs but they may give an indication on whos right or wrong. s8hôôt data for schneider/beaulieu 6-70.

if the ccartridge has no slot for the daylight filter it sets the cam to 40D. the film speed slot size is the same as 64 but with the built in 85 filter disabled the cam asa is set to 40. read the right column. check the details about the filter notch from an old post on shoot8 regarding reading 160 carts. it is only the filter slot which is of interest here.

you may check this out yourself: http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Super_8_Ca...dge_Notch_Ruler my guess is that it is notched for 40D disabling the built in 85 filter. that is the right column on the ruler. "D" s8hôôt

all gone s8hôôt

this may be of interest for you: DOF calculators s8hôôt

that is innocent until proven broke. (by lawyer fees) s8hôôt

if you hadnt been such a rookie santo youd noticed a post from someone who worked at pro8 which confirmed that they in fact sells recans. and it is not alex. that said, re-cans do not necessarily be all bad because simple snip tests can be done in advance - without guaranteeing for the whole strip though. i dont bother providing the link but alex knows where to find it. shoot8

Fuji RPV 50? http://www.pictureline.com/images/pdf/Velvia50AF3-960E_1.pdf and then there is this thing called filtering, shoot

i believe your problem is this: cartridge film loop slack. those Canons - i assume the 814 is similar to the 1014 is this aspect - will detect "end of cart" if there is a big loose loop on the take-up side inside the cartridge. my 2 e 64Ts so far both came with a big slack and the cam stopped like yours. (actually nice with a cam that tells you of that problem!) remedy: take out the cart and wind up the slack - gently. if is turns very easily at first there is a slack. by the moment the take up reel stops - don turn any further or else - in worst case - you can damage the film. there is a big difference in tension between slack (no resistanse at all) and no slack - "hard" so you cant miss it if you are a bit careful. taking up the slack is a very old PRO "secret" and should always be done with any cart to make it function properly - with any cam. take up the slack and try again. if this is not the problem Alex´suggestions is next. battery condition check is another option. another ol´ dirty "secret"; always film a second or 2 of your business card at the beginning of each film in case it gets lost or someting during proccessing, transfer or else. s8hôôt

s8hôôt