Ralph Tabith

actually thanks to Nick really, I gleaned it all from him. and thanks for the info on the timelapse aswell nick. i actually had been shooting with 0.3 + and it should have been 0.3 - minus, oh dear. will it make that much of a difference if i get a graded telecine?

also theres a place in calcutta i can get maybe half of my film developed, or do you think that i should just take it all to mumbai at the end of my trip....will the film be ok for a few months undeveloped? thanks agian

thanks Nick, that beer sounds a good idea if i ever get to that part of the world, i think i have sorted it out, like you say trust your intuition, i dont think these guys in india have seen one of those spools before, actually i am sure they have but anything goes out here, hell who knows it might even come out looking all kooked up, which is partly the idea i had in mind!

its getting to about 36 degrees tops in the day where we were, but we have moved and going north so I am guessing it will be around 20 - 30, maybe in the middle, i was looking at some of the emulsion and i dont, think or rather hope it willl be ok,,,

actually what i think is happenning when the guys at the lab respooled the film onto 100ft they taped the film to the spool, so when it gets to a certain point it just jams up up....any suggestions please? i think when i load the camera i will pull the film as tight as possible to make sure that the tension is evenish throughout the whole spool and then when it gets to about 95 ft in the counter just cut the film there.... i dont like the idea of the masking tape going through the gate, i assume thats a no-no? thanks r

thanks for the info! filming again today and towards the end it did the same thing, just stopped but when i opened it up it had nearly finished anyway, v.strange. does it take much for the spool to become damaged? i think the spools are pretty much ok. maybe winding the the bolex up fully is a problem? maybe it pulls it too hard or something, do you think i should wind it in shorter bursts? i am shooting reg 16, i am going to get it processed with adlabs in calcutta so fingers crossed...i will have to "wing it" as we british say/

ok so i am in india, bought my film had it respooled to 100ft daylight spools and was filming and my rex 5 jammed!? cant understand it, lost alot of nice footage- what could be the cause it seems to loop up fine and run nice when i changed the film, i am carrying it in a small bag do you think that could effect it? i am trying to be as careful as possible - my heart sank alittle as to get to this point has been so much work already....mabe its something to do with the heat, any advice on the best way to store the camera, i have been doing so on its side,\ also with daylight spools if something goes wrong with one, does light ruin the whole film or just the part exposed, thanks for your help i think wish me luck because i ll need it! thanks r

i have to second whats been said, it looks beautiful. Especially the part it looks cracked like dry earth!

im actually going to south side of india up to nepal, but it isnt rainy season there at this time, so i think i might get one of those moisture sachets things - thanks

i am applying for a bursary for a short i want to make and it states that I have to include a "treatment." I was wondering for treatments is it 'allowed' for a more descriptive style in tone?/ written like a short story with lots of embellishment say - "the neons lights hummed washing the streets with peculiar iridescence," or should it be more formal than that, more succinct? Thanks any other/general tips would be great!

i am going to be wandering around a hot country with my 16mm film in my peli case, maybe at a stretch of a couple of months at a time while shooting...should i be worried about any deterioration in this time scale? thanks

i just wanted to ask anybody else if they find the 6080 focusing tricky through the viewfinder on the macro settings...? i was reading in the instructions that to set it to the red lettered "macro," you adjust the focus by using the auto focus button on top, and you set the ring to the white lettered "macro," to manually adjust focus in the macro setting. I remember reading somewhere that if you set the ring to the red dot, and then the focusing ring to the red 15 or 4 ft/m it has a set distance for macro? is this correct? has anybody got any advice for the macro settings with the 6080? filming tomorrow, and thanks!

an aversion to alcohol i can understand but tea?!? i wouldnt be able to live without tea.

Maybe this is a really basic question for those in the know about physics, but I was wondering when a light source stops, say shining a torch into a box then closing it up, where have the photons gone? Are they still inside there or do they die out?

Would this be the same if i were using a tcs time lapse motor as well?/ thanks for the "definitive figures" ! R

You told me ! :D Should I dial in 135 degree as well as the additional increment? Thanks

I am planning my trip to asia soon and bringing my newly acquired rex 5. I am going to shoot tests at the weekend but maybe not in time... I was wondering whether the following was correct: i have my sekonic 508 cine and have programmed it for 130/135 shutter angle. I have also programmed it with an increment of 0.3 + for light loss. Thanks, hopefully I can take some nice shots

thanks for the quick response, will get to it!

hi, i am having troubling with the black marker in my bolex viewfinder, apparently when i have the variable shutter fully open, the black triangle stays in position! help! does that mean its not fully open? I havent had the chance to shoot tests so tomorrow i will try but if anybody has any thoughts please advise, thanks

Thanks Nick, a friend is buying one from Clive via ebay as we speak!

Does anyone know if crystal sync motors are being made for bolex's anymore, i contacted duall but they said that the one I was after is not being manufactured anymore....?

" The other major problem created by fluorescent light is the flicker you often get as a result of fluorescent being a pulsating source. If it?s frequency of its power supply isn?t compatible with the camera speed, then the light will fluctuate on the filmed image. Also, if it?s not compatible with the shutter angle of the camera, the same thing will occur. The best combinations of frequency, film speed and shutter opening are as follows for film cameras: * 50 kHz.?25fps with any shutter opening * 50 kHz ?24fps with a shutter opening of 170?175 degree opening * 60 kHz--24fps with a shutter angle of 144 or 180 degrees. Don?t use fluorescent sources for creating slow motion effects by shooting at 48fps or higher. You will not be able to get rid of the pulsation of the light -- at least that?s my unfortunate experience. Fluorescent lighting is a common source of light on locations. In documentary, you encounter it constantly. Student films frequently are plagued with poor handling of fluorescent light. If you take into consideration its properties, you can work with it and integrate it into the look of your scene. If you're working on tape, you?ll immediately see it?s effect on your scene if you have a broadcast and calibrated monitor on location. When shooting on tape, it?s always good to make a camera report noting that fluorescent light was used to alert the editor of the need to correct color. " quoted from here Ok, this might be a simplification but its seems to correlate to what I have read in this thread. I only have a Bolex rex 5 and an ebm at my disposal so I will go and find a crystal motor. any other advice always appreciated thank you.

Thanks for all the info, you could earn a fortune if you charge by the hour!:)

Is there anyway to compensate for this? By the way, I am in the UK so it would be 50hz..

Would you advise me buying a temperature meter in order to see what the bulbs are running at (By finding the temperature, does that tell you what kind of fluorescent it is?) So tungsten balanced film would bring out those lovely colours. Would you suggest push processing the film? I walked around the location today and could clearly see that one of the bulbs was flickering, i didnt have time to see what make the bulbs were. Is filming at under 1/48 the rule of thumb for a non "flickery" image? I definitely want to emulate that tone in your image./ thanks Robert and David