Chris Keth

Of those choices, I would take master primes for their extreme flare resistance and I would take 5201 and 5207. In those conditions, I would think about pulling a stop to help tame the strong contrast.

I know this isn't going to be all that helpful, but I'll say it anyway. Screw the rules. Do something that looks good to you and makes just enough sense that the audience will buy it in the logic of the scene and you're golden.

Out of curiosity, what would be your first choice?

You could use chimeras with honeycombs. Those are pretty controllable.

Opulence: I has It

What are your requirements?

Also, once you're all lit and have established the safe places in the room, drape some furnie pads from c-stands and get them as close in as you can. It doesn't have to be a solid wall of them. One or two in the right places can have surprisingly great sound-deadening effects.

Nobody will ever give you a job in the film industry. It's too competitive. You have to earn your work.

No slip up. The loader loads magazines and keeps paperwork. The 1st threads the camera body.

Not only will witness marks change from stop to stop but also as you zoom in on most zooms built for stills. They are not necessarily parfocal like cine zooms.

It just has to hold up for the duration of a scene. Paper does fine and it doesn't tear up carpet or leave adhesive. You'll look green if you're marking everything with cloth.

No and that's a good thing. Adaptability makes it heavier. I've never met an assistant who likes carrying all that crap on their belt anyway.

I've done this one before and was happy with the results. I got 3 1ft by 1ft mirrors and taped them into a triangular tube with the mirrored sides facing out. Use clear packing tape so you don't cut down on the mirror area. That mirror thing was set onto a record turntable from a thrift shop and it was taped down. I gelled a couple lekos red and a couple blue and banged them into the spinning mirror.

I don't know, redrock stuff is pretty cheap. Any cheaper made and it'll come flatpacked and you'll have to build it yourself out of cardboard.

I can certainly mention it. Their first priority at the moment is getting toland for iphone all sorted. Chemical wedding is only 4 guys and they all have other jobs so it's not a quick thing.

Half the time is waiting so you're back up to 4. ;)

I'm considering buying a 5d mkii. I want a great digital stills camera and the fact that it can shoot sometimes-passable video is a bonus. What I'm wondering is how often those of you who already have one, how often can you tack it onto your kit for work and get a bit of return on it? This camera is all over productions for both stills, behind the scenes stuff, and for the odd insert on red shows and whatnot. I'm curious how often it's just brought along for the ride and how often production is actually paying for us to bring it along and have it available.

Exactly. Batteries are expendables and production should buy them.

Shootin it in reverse is definitely the way to go. I can tell you now that doing it in one take is not realistic. Even at a good stop, plan for plenty of rehearsal and marking time and a half dozen takes to get a good one with no or minimal buzzes.

Keep in mind that, for no pay, the crew will probably not be efficient professionals. For example, my thesis in school took about that long and cut out to 22 minutes.

This. Toland is still a work in progress. I'm good friends with one of the creators and I test their programs. Toland has a lot of great things coming but for all practical purposes, it's not 100% finished.

The cameraman is being silly. Unless there's a real dress code (shooting the oscars) or it's a matter of etiquette (like removing your hat in a church), wear what is functional and comfortable.

Hell, I just did that this spring on a show for MTV.

I don't get it. Why doesn't anybody secure financing then make the movie?

Personally, I think it's much too large and probably too heavy. I like the light. I don't like the size, zipper, and the semi-rigid back. Personally, my perfect pouch would be a full grain leather copy of a lindcraft pouch with a strong magnet closure (and a magnet that you can hold the flap open, too).