Leigh Goldstein

It's recently acquired camera never CLA'd; 18 fps on kodak Tri-x and Vision2 400T. The rolls were exposed over a four hour time to a three day time period. The camera was on tripod which was moved around... in some cases a lot, in other cases not much. Shots were three to 10 seconds long. So CLA is the thing to do?

Thanks for the much good information and perspective. I will relax about this. I am still interested to know the answer, but it won't affect my work much.

This 1014XLS shows the "End" flag about 20s early. A lot of slapping the side of the camera and hitting the shoot button gets to the end of the roll eventually. Is this the kind of thing that cleaning can help? Can I do that myself? Or is it possible for a professional to repair? TIA. P.S. it often jams once in the first 5s too.

I think you can still find old sound film, plus I have read about some company adding the magnetic stripe to new stock.

For some Attack of the Fifty Foot Reels you have to submit a soundtrack wav file with the undeveloped reel of film.

I know at 18 fps it's 200 sec, but is that plus/minus 0.01s, .1s, 1s, or 3s?

That sounds best of all. I'll use that as a starting point and then do some bracketing on the actual subjects to see what works best. Thanks for all your suggestions. -Leigh

How about this? I put a white sheet of paper under the scope under the same illumination, and adjust the light down (or use darker paper) until the brightness seems equal to the subjects, then meter on that.... to get an idea anyway.

Are you doing science? Science rules! ~:?) -------- Science does indeed rule. I am doing a documentary on micro-organisms, focusing on their visual beauty. It's technically challenging to do in super 8mm, easy to do in digital with special camera scopes.

I am filming a situation with a few small, very bright white objects on a dark background. I assume the camera (1014 XL-S) light meter will read a very low light and open the aperture very wide, but I don't need to see any detail in the dark background; I want to see detail in the highlights only (the bright objects). Is there some way to estimate how far to stop down the aperture from the AE setting without exposing a roll of film? Also, it is possible the AE setting will just read in the red (less than f/1.4). I can't really use a light meter here (I am shooting through a microscope). I guess in that case I am stuck with test exposures? thanks, Leigh

Thanks, that is a good suggestion. -Leigh P.S. By dynamic range, I meant the logarithm of the ratio of the optical densities of the darkest the film can get to the clearest it can get, which is different than the latitude of the film, which is about ratio of the intensity of light that fully exposes the film to the lowest intensity that produces a response in the film. Anyway that is my meager understanding.

Is there a resource that gives values for grain, contrast and dynamic range for Kodak films Plus-X, Tri-X, Vision2 200T and 500T? The Kodak site gives vague information. Clearly Tri-X is going to give larger grain than Plus-X, and 500T than 200T, but how do the color films compare to the b&w films? Do the color films have similiar contrast and dynamic range to the b&w films? Thanks, Leigh

I discovered the wheel lifts up and down as well as rotates. I will test to see if this adjusts the aperture.

I am missing pages 15 and 32 of the original manual for the R10. Can someone explain how to operate the EE Lock/Manual Aperture Setting Ring? The wheel feels loose, and doesn't click or stop. I am wondering if it works without batteries inserted, and how it feels if it is working right.

I found Spectra Film and Video as a good possibility.