Edward Koehler

It sounds like a back focus/collimation issue to me. Over the years the c-mount threads wear and half a mm can throw your back focus. Just today I spoke on the phone to Camserve in East Sussex regarding a different lens issue, but coincidentally I also inquired about getting my Schneider 6-66 serviced and properly collimated to my Beaulieu. He said it would cost £40-60 depending on the number of elements and work required, plus VAT and return shipping. You might want to check them out: www.camserve.co.uk

I'm stuck. I've volunteered to edit a piece for a Burma non-profit organization. Because of the media blackout imposed by the Myanmar dictatorship, most of the footage is only available online as .flv (like YouTube). I've tried SnapxPro, Zamzar and Tubesock (and others) with differing results, but when I get the clip into FCP4 as a .mov or DV(PAL), I lose the clip audio. It seems to be caused by the addition of my LiveType graphics, for reasons I do not comprehend. The conversion, resizing and import/export of the clips seems very time consumptive as well. So, my question is... what am I doing wrong? What is the recommended process for ripping from the web (.flv) for FCP with LiveType graphics? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

The EWA S8K works well on the 1014xls, but it does block the power switch and you will need to use a tool to access the switch. It can be flimsy until you find the right mounting configuration, but even then it is still not very robust. I don't think there are instructions for mounting to a 1014xls, but it does work. When you get one, let us know if you have trouble finding the right configuration and I can post a pic.

:lol: AND holding a can of Red Stripe!

Here's a bit about the modular B&H- http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Bell_and_Howell_MS_45 It's an interesting system. A 4008zmII, 1014xl-s or equivalent Nizo, with a AF310xl back-up might prove a smaller kit, more versatile overall and more practical. I like to consider cameras interchangeable, and a dependable back-up can be quite light. Oftentimes I prefer the back-up camera! Just look at Kate Moss smoking a fag while zooming with one finger on her little Canon. Not a bother!

In addition, here's a great link with a useful shutter speed chart: http://www.film.project-consultant.net/htm...eed_-_fade.html Just to clarify: the 'window' setting is 220degree shutter... the 'sunshine' setting is 180degrees. Not to be confused with the filter selector switch or 'lightbulb' or 'sunshine'. It is a venerable shutter design. Good luck with the 1014xl-s. It's one of the best. And welcome to super 8mm.

I had a couple of those Bentley portable viewers with the DC variable motors. I know they're crap, but they're a lot of fun! I wouldn't trust it with footage of any value, and for that reason they become worthless to us... but in the day they were also intended to view super8mm digests of hollywood films and cartoons. I don't know of any other DC powered portable projector for super8.

Thanks Jess. The baking soda was silly, I didn't realize the corrosion is actually a base. I imagine some conductive nickel paint would be useful to coat surfaces of contacts which lost plating. Galen, $275 sounds high. Do you mean that they fixed the contact issue already, and they want $275 in addition to calibrate the lightmeter, focus, speed, etc? The price would vary depending on the extent of the damage... but a little corrosion in the battery compartment shouldn't cost $275 to remedy. You should get a description of the work performed from the serviceperson. Find out what they mean by 'recalibrate'.

I have to admit that one of my preferred cameras is a Sankyo, but... for best focus indication in the viewfinder, you can't beat a groundglass. I've converted several S8 cameras to groundglass focussing because these Aerial viewfinder systems are one of the major weaknesses of S8. The blue/yellow dichroic focus system is like the Zeiss rangefinder viewfinder on the better Polaroid Packfilm cameras. They're decent, but they demonstrate focus only at the center, and the accuracy of the system depends on the proper alignment of separate dichroic filters. However, the sharpness a camera is not determined solely by focus or by it's focus indication system. For instance, I found my Canon 1014xl-s sharper than my Beaulieu 4008zmII with 6-66 in normal shooting circumstances. I think this was because of the smoothness of the film transport and multi-coating on the lens. I don't have the zmII anymore, but the footage I shot with it at 75fps (which the Canon cannot do), it is significantly sharper than anything I have shot since with the 1014xl-s. That's because of the shutter speed at 75fps. I have to agree with the previous statement that there are numerous contributing factors to the sharpness of a camera, including shooting conditions in addition to mechanical/optical considerations. Hey, wasn't there some sort of advanced transport design in the Leicina Special?

It could be a connection issue in the battery compartment, or inside the camera on the way to the lightmeter. It could also be a dead cds cell, which would need to be replaced and the lightmeter recalibrated. If you wish to keep the camera and get the auto exposure working, then you should send it to a service person who is accustomed to auto exposure systems like super 8 and can locate the part. Let me know if you decide to have it serviced.

Battery corrosion is not necessarily the death or ruin of a camera. It sounds like you just noticed this and the corrosion is not so advanced, so a basic cleaning of the battery contacts with a fibreglass pen should suffice. If the corrosion is advanced, it can affect other connections along the circuit further inside the camera. The corrosion can destroy a connection entirely by dissolving the wire. At that point, the connection must be removed of solder, the wire trimmed back or replaced, the connection points cleaned using a fibreglass pen and preferably a connection cleaner such as DeoxIT, then resoldered. I've had to clean heavily corroded contacts with emory cloth and replace some entirely. This is probably more superstition than anything, but I also clean them with baking soda and treat with a light coating of 3-in-1 or watch oil to inhibit any rust on the bare metal (the corrosion has likely destoyed any plating). I would not use WD-40 to clean the contacts, as it is a water displacer and tends to promote rust in the following weeks. I can understand that it is probably effective at removing the corrosion though.